"Gonna do it right...maybe!!??" Fuller's new XJ build!!!

Did you replace them with spicer joints?
 
marty79 said:
It looks funny I guess but it's strong, like the normal Fuller stuff hehe
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No doubt that it's strong, I was just curious how straight it was and if you're going to be getting vibrations out of it. But, like you said, you're building a trail rig. I mean, I've seen guys make some tremendously long slip joints with square tube driveshafts, so they obviously weren't concerned with vibrations at all.

Being 3/8" thick wall, I'd almost assume that you could turn that thing into a teeter totter on a rock and it wouldn't bend...lol. But the t-case output housing might be none too pleased.
 
marty79 said:
No just Moog, outer will break before joint everyone says
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1stgenxxx said:
...cheaper parts store joints ...
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This is the main issue here. There comes a point where as a wheeler, you can't afford to be cheap. Being cheap makes you miss trips, spend 1/2 day wrenching on a trailer or in the mud or similar.
Super joints aren't for everyone and I get that. But the price point between good Spicers and crappy parts store junk isn't a huge void. Buy once, cry once.
 
Jody Treadway said:
This is the main issue here. There comes a point where as a wheeler, you can't afford to be cheap. Being cheap makes you miss trips, spend 1/2 day wrenching on a trailer or in the mud or similar.
Super joints aren't for everyone and I get that. But the price point between good Spicers and crappy parts store junk isn't a huge void. Buy once, cry once.
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I would like to see how much force it takes to break a non greasable 1310 vs a duralast greasable 1410
 
Well y'all say what you want to say about on my Dana 30 and Dana 44 with new Moog joints I never broke a joint always broken axle so I figure Dana 60 is going to hold up plenty for my wheeling needs.
 
Jody Treadway said:
This is the main issue here. There comes a point where as a wheeler, you can't afford to be cheap. Being cheap makes you miss trips, spend 1/2 day wrenching on a trailer or in the mud or similar.
Super joints aren't for everyone and I get that. But the price point between good Spicers and crappy parts store junk isn't a huge void. Buy once, cry once.
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There's a lot of life experience in this statement. I will also agree. I'm almost too cheap in my everyday life but I know you get what you pay for (most times) when it comes to what we do.
 
marty79 said:
Well y'all say what you want to say about on my Dana 30 and Dana 44 with new Moog joints I never broke a joint always broken axle so I figure Dana 60 is going to hold up plenty for my wheeling needs.
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And your D60 axles are stronger than 30 and 44s, right?
(Otherwise why swap to 60s)
So if the axles are stronger then the weak point becomes?...
 
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Ron said:
And your D60 axles are stronger than 30 and 44s, right?
(Otherwise why swap to 60s)
So if the axles are stronger then the weak point becomes?...
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True but on 39.5 with stock motor I ain't breaking a 60. If/when I do, that will be hell of a video lol. I'm pretty positive driveshafts and tcase will always go first until those are upgraded..

So speaking of which, to make say my rear driveshaft stronger, do I get a 1410 yoke on the tcase side then it could hold up more abuse or ....
My front VERY surprised it has taken A LOT of abuse and never breaks a yoke...rear different story
 
marty79 said:
So speaking of which, to make say my rear driveshaft stronger, do I get a 1410 yoke on the tcase side then it could hold up more abuse or
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Shouldn't you have considered that before building the world's first 100 pound driveshaft NOT connected to a Peterbilt?
 
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