"Gonna do it right...maybe!!??" Fuller's new XJ build!!!

Jody Treadway said:
Shouldn't you have considered that before building the world's first 100 pound driveshaft NOT connected to a Peterbilt?
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Ok so what the heck am I supposed to build then. I thought I was doing right building a thick wall one to hold up snagging on rocks..man y'all got me all confused
 
marty79 said:
Ok so what the heck am I supposed to build then. I thought I was doing right building a thick wall one to hold up snagging on rocks..man y'all got me all confused
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The point of my question is why did you build a solid 1310 rear drive shaft but 5 seconds later start asking about a 1410 yoke to fit aforementioned shaft?
 
marty79 said:
Ok so what the heck am I supposed to build then. I thought I was doing right building a thick wall one to hold up snagging on rocks..man y'all got me all confused
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IMHO, our hobby keeps us chasing the weakest link. By making that driveshaft so “heavy duty”, you’re gonna make something else the weak link. Some may say, something more expensive. A man can recover from a broken u-joint on the trail... broken transfer case, not so much. That much weight, rotating & vibrating, is gonna put unnecessary stress on your u-joints and cause them to fail prematurely and more often as well.
 
Jody Treadway said:
The point of my question is why did you build a solid 1310 rear drive shaft but 5 seconds later start asking about a 1410 yoke to fit aforementioned shaft?
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I'm confused, I needed to use a 1410 cause of the D70 once I realized that so figured make it beefy knowing I'm gonna hit on stuff often.
I get it other things will be weak now but at the same time a driveshaft breaking can also put a bind on output shaft at that moment causing tcase to break (aluminum xj housings are bad prone to this) so I guess my end result was beefy driveshaft with good pinion angle like my previous one and it should handle all the rpms the motor can give it..the other 1310 1/4wall did great on 37s even with all the rock marks all over it.

Contrary to popular belief and "facts", 2 np231s I've broke ever...both was me being stupid not caring cause I had spares so with my drivetrain, it's never been a weak link until I purposely beat the snot out of it. Just sayin, true for me though
 
I guess I'm open to rear driveshaft suggestions without getting crazy money involved
 
marty79 said:
I guess I'm open to rear driveshaft suggestions without getting crazy money involved
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The super duper rear driveshaft you built, does it have a ujoint currently installed that matches the yoke currently on the Dana 70 rear?
I assumed the shaft was still rocking 1310 series joint. If it is still 1310, I was wondering why you put so much time intomit, knowing you need to change the axle yoke.
If I'm mistaken and the axle end matches the yoke, my bad.
 
Jody Treadway said:
The super duper rear driveshaft you built, does it have a ujoint currently installed that matches the yoke currently on the Dana 70 rear?
I assumed the shaft was still rocking 1310 series joint. If it is still 1310, I was wondering why you put so much time intomit, knowing you need to change the axle yoke.
If I'm mistaken and the axle end matches the yoke, my bad.
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No I got a 1410 yoke so the rear at axle end is 1410 full joint (no bastard stuff) and tcase side has regular 1310 yoke, stock. So is this ok then..
 
Jody Treadway said:
10-4. Didn't realize you did that.
I'd leave it, run it and see what, if anything happens.
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So it's out of round a little, I've gotten them much closer to straight before so should I fix the little offness it has or let it go, thanks
 
marty79 said:
So it's out of round a little, I've gotten them much closer to straight before so should I fix the little offness it has or let it go, thanks
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You should take it to a driveshaft shop and ask them to balance it while doing a facebook livestream.
 
jeepinmatt said:
You should take it to a driveshaft shop and ask them to balance it while doing a facebook livestream.
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That mint chocolate chip ice cream would have that driveshaft spinning straighter than a grizzly's dick.
 
Will a 31" track bar work with my draglink being 35"..
 
Much better, I don't know what the crap I was thinking lol, must've been flustered and blind that day. Don't let the pictures deceive you the measurements from eye to eye ear to ear or exact this time.
IMG_20180328_200448239_LL.jpg
 
marty79 said:
Will a 31" track bar work with my draglink being 35"..
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Yes, it will work. You may occasionally get some less than perfect movement, but for offroad you'll never know the difference. Try to get them both level at ride height.
 
jeepinmatt said:
Yes, it will work. You may occasionally get some less than perfect movement, but for offroad you'll never know the difference. Try to get them both level at ride height.
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Awesome, getting them level or very close will be doable but was worried about length. Thank you
 
Hey does the draglink heim joint at the tie rod end have to have the misalignment spacers..thank you
 
marty79 said:
Hey does the draglink heim joint at the tie rod end have to have the misalignment spacers..thank you
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Do you have a picture? If the bolt through the heim is vertical it will need to travel. If the bolt is horizontal, you might have enough travel to not need the spacers.
 
Ne
paradisePWoffrd said:
Do you have a picture? If the bolt through the heim is vertical it will need to travel. If the bolt is horizontal, you might have enough travel to not need the spacers.
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Nevermind I did it this way. Steering is DONE. Track bar is DONE. Woohoo
1/4 wall 1.75 tie rod, adjustable trackbar and ended up about as level and parallel as it can be.
IMG_20180330_163415010_LL.jpg
IMG_20180330_163424010_LL.jpg

Fabrik8 said:
Why is the driveshaft so small diameter?
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Huh..
 
I have just enough room for a hydraulic ram and Bam, all steering will be done. Getting closer
 
marty79 said:
Ne

Nevermind I did it this way. Steering is DONE. Track bar is DONE. Woohoo
1/4 wall 1.75 tie rod, adjustable trackbar and ended up about as level and parallel as it can be.
View attachment 265660 View attachment 265661

Huh..
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You will need to add a high steer arm or something to that knuckle. Way too much leverage on it as it is. Will have a lot of slop too.
 
marty79 said:
Ne

Nevermind I did it this way. Steering is DONE. Track bar is DONE. Woohoo
1/4 wall 1.75 tie rod, adjustable trackbar and ended up about as level and parallel as it can be.
View attachment 265660 View attachment 265661

Huh..
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Are you sure that trackbar won't cave in your oil pan at full bump?

I see that tie rod hole in the knuckle breaking off the first time you hit a big hole or rock.
 
Dam y'all serious, first time I made straight and good angled steering nothing but negative...well this is discouraging
 
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