"Gonna do it right...maybe!!??" Fuller's new XJ build!!!

Dam y'all serious, first time I made straight and good angled steering nothing but negative...well this is discouraging
The angles look good. Add a high steer arm to double shear that bolt and it should work fine.
 
The angles look good. Add a high steer arm to double shear that bolt and it should work fine.
Why do I need high steer arm. everything is perfect..reme rememy old ghetto steering. If that worked why can't this
 
Why do I need high steer arm. everything is perfect..reme rememy old ghetto steering. If that worked why can't this
Do something like this. It ties in the steering load into the knuckle. Like you have it now, you're trying to twist the steering arm. It will have slop in it and will likely break with much abuse. Esp if you add hydro-assist.
95ad00fd896472e7b5408c19f4b176db.jpg
 
Why do I need high steer arm. everything is perfect..reme rememy old ghetto steering. If that worked why can't this
Your on bigger tires and adding hydraulics, whole different ballgame now.
What about the trackbar to oil pan clearance?
 
Your on bigger tires and adding hydraulics, whole different ballgame now.
What about the trackbar to oil pan clearance?
Gotcha I'll fix it.
Track bar is fine, upper link will hit body before track bar does so not much up travel.
 
Do something like this. It ties in the steering load into the knuckle. Like you have it now, you're trying to twist the steering arm. It will have slop in it and will likely break with much abuse. Esp if you add hydro-assist.
95ad00fd896472e7b5408c19f4b176db.jpg
What about just doing my original idea and mounting draglink on top of tie rod, I've seen many setups that way.
Dam this sucks thought I had it all perfect lol
 
Do something like this. It ties in the steering load into the knuckle. Like you have it now, you're trying to twist the steering arm. It will have slop in it and will likely break with much abuse. Esp if you add hydro-assist.
95ad00fd896472e7b5408c19f4b176db.jpg
If I do this what is the brackets welded to..the misalignment spacers or a sleeve in between the misalignment spacers
 
If I do this what is the brackets welded to..the misalignment spacers or a sleeve in between the misalignment spacers
The brackets are welded to each other and the knuckle/steering arm.

There is a hole in the top for your bolt to go through. The 2 heims are mounted between the steering arm and this top plate.

Check out these and you can kinda see how the heims fit between the top and bottom.

Crossover Weld-On High Steer Arms - 99-04 SuperDuty

Here is a better pic of what I'm suggesting.
project_02f150_13.jpg
 
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The brackets are welded to each other and the knuckle/steering arm.

There is a hole in the top for your bolt to go through. The 2 heims are mounted between the steering arm and this top plate.

Check out these and you can kinda see how the heims fit between the top and bottom.

Crossover Weld-On High Steer Arms - 99-04 SuperDuty

Here is a better pic of what I'm suggesting.
project_02f150_13.jpg
That looks kinda simple I guess. Looks doable for me..I think I hope ugh I'm so flustered with this thing.
I have to redo this now. Have to redo front spring perches up top to straighten springs and raise up bout 2"....doing things right is like super time consuming rather than just throwing it together like my past rigs (especially when you're not good at design and fabricate like me lol). Can't wait to finish
 
Dam y'all serious, first time I made straight and good angled steering nothing but negative...well this is discouraging

It isn't the end of the world, you just need a high steer arm to double sheer that steering. If you only had the single tie rod on the knuckle you should be fine, but with them double stacked, it is too much leverage and will wallow out or snap that arm.
 
It isn't the end of the world, you just need a high steer arm to double sheer that steering. If you only had the single tie rod on the knuckle you should be fine, but with them double stacked, it is too much leverage and will wallow out or snap that arm.
I got it we've established this and either moving drag to tierod or doing the braces..
 
That looks kinda simple I guess. Looks doable for me..I think I hope ugh I'm so flustered with this thing.
I have to redo this now. Have to redo front spring perches up top to straighten springs and raise up bout 2"....doing things right is like super time consuming rather than just throwing it together like my past rigs (especially when you're not good at design and fabricate like me lol). Can't wait to finish

I will add something that I hope you take as constructive criticism.
Just going by the posts in this build thread it seems you are feeling rushed and trying to get everything done asap.
I do understand the feeling, and I know you want to make the open ride at the shop.
My advice is maybe take a day or two off from wrenching on it to clear your mind.
I have always made the worst mistakes when I am in a rush to get things done.
Remember , this is a hobby, should be fun. It isn't work where a deadline has to be met.
Just my advice. Hope it may help?
 
I will add something that I hope you take as constructive criticism.
Just going by the posts in this build thread it seems you are feeling rushed and trying to get everything done asap.
I do understand the feeling, and I know you want to make the open ride at the shop.
My advice is maybe take a day or two off from wrenching on it to clear your mind.
I have always made the worst mistakes when I am in a rush to get things done.
Remember , this is a hobby, should be fun. It isn't work where a deadline has to be met.
Just my advice. Hope it may help?
Yeah ur right bud, I forget to chill and enjoy. I let it get to me and I've never done a build anything remotely close to this setup so just not used to it. Few weeks and done is what I've been used to lol.
If I could design and fabricate halfway descent I probably would've been done by now haha but I've done descent I think to implement what I can from everyone's advise. Pushing forward!!!
 
Yeah ur right bud, I forget to chill and enjoy. I let it get to me and I've never done a build anything remotely close to this setup so just not used to it. Few weeks and done is what I've been used to lol.
If I could design and fabricate halfway descent I probably would've been done by now haha but I've done descent I think to implement what I can from everyone's advise. Pushing forward!!!

You have designed and fabbed extremely well on this build, just don't expect yourself to do it as quickly as people who have done it hundreds of times. Just like anything, the first time takes a little bit longer.

Hope to see your rig in action at the shop, or the flats, or when ever it is ready to roll...
 
What about just doing my original idea and mounting draglink on top of tie rod, I've seen many setups that way.
Dam this sucks thought I had it all perfect lol


Just do this. Who gives a shit if your tie rod geometry isn't perfect this isn't a race car or a street driven truck, you won't even notice it.
We know you can't afford and aren't going to add a high steer arm, get the drag link off that bolt-- I know you have the common sense to see how shady it is--and put it on the tie rod.
 
Just do this. Who gives a shit if your tie rod geometry isn't perfect this isn't a race car or a street driven truck, you won't even notice it.
We know you can't afford and aren't going to add a high steer arm, get the drag link off that bolt-- I know you have the common sense to see how shady it is--and put it on the tie rod.
I am, it's simpler than other method
 
If I do this what is the brackets welded to..the misalignment spacers or a sleeve in between the misalignment spacers
Just to point out also that your tie rod bar (one from knuckle to knuckle) doesn't need any high misalignment spacers on the heims to connect to the knuckles.
 
Just to point out also that your tie rod bar (one from knuckle to knuckle) doesn't need any high misalignment spacers on the heims to connect to the knuckles.
Well since my dumbbutt used 1.75 tube, it barely..barely clears diff cover with the misallmisali spacers, without them it would really hit.
I thought about though, it would probably dent it in maybe 1/4"..would that hit the gears?
I'm pretty sure you get tighter steering with using the misalignment spacers right?
 
Hey someone please help..maybe I'm stupid but did somebody mount the rotor on back side of the bearings
IMG_20180402_175526931_LL.jpg
 
It doesn't seem so but all other pictures I find the rotor comes off first like normal cars lol
 
Well since my dumbbutt used 1.75 tube, it barely..barely clears diff cover with the misallmisali spacers, without them it would really hit.
I thought about though, it would probably dent it in maybe 1/4"..would that hit the gears?
I'm pretty sure you get tighter steering with using the misalignment spacers right?
Tighter steering? No, if anything it would be looser with them since the bolt is longer. Should be no difference really if everything is tight and fits well.
 
Hey someone please help..maybe I'm stupid but did somebody mount the rotor on back side of the bearingsView attachment 265789
That is the correct way that one mounts. You have to pull the hub off and knock out the studs to get the rotor off.
 
Side note - do I see a crack in that knuckle? Right above the steering arm going up to the ball joint ear...Maybe it's some schmutz on there, but...looks like a crack in the pic.
 
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