"Gonna do it right...maybe!!??" Fuller's new XJ build!!!

Well finally got steering done and dropped the track bar down 3". After cycling suspension again from fixing springs and going up an inch, track bar was moving the axle so far to the driver side so figured 3"drop should help..pro probagonna take axle side mount up higher so at half droop track bar would be about level. Otherwise it sits bout 1/2" off (rear higher) but that's not bad.
IMG_20180402_223730904_LL.jpg
 
Yeah yeah yeah I know my draglink is ghetto as hell lol, someday will fix it but for now gonna have to live with the poor looks haha (wouldn't be my rig without my signature ghetto fabulous )
 
For the record, unless there were other clearance issues you would have been better off having left the trac bar parallel with the drag link rather than make it flatter--even more so being it's a tall ass trac bar bracket on an xj frame known for tearing right there. Getting closer though.
 
braxton357 said:
For the record, unless there were other clearance issues you would have been better off having left the trac bar parallel with the drag link rather than make it flatter--even more so being it's a tall ass trac bar bracket on an xj frame known for tearing right there. Getting closer though.
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No worries, no part of the frame is original so all good there. I've read up that you want it parallel at half droop if possible to keep axle centered as best as possible so that's what I'm shooting for.
Clearance not an issue, the upper link can only go up like 1.5"max then hits body so that's kinda gonna be the bumpstop for driver side ..I'll have to put some rubber stopper on it somehow though
 
marty79 said:
No worries, no part of the frame is original so all good there. I've read up that you want it parallel at half droop if possible to keep axle centered as best as possible so that's what I'm shooting for.
Clearance not an issue, the upper link can only go up like 1.5"max then hits body so that's kinda gonna be the bumpstop for driver side ..I'll have to put some rubber stopper on it somehow though
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You want the trackbar level at half droop only when running hydraulic steering. Otherwise when running a conventional steering setup like you are, you want the draglink and trackbar to match.

What you read was for a different steering setup.
 
Stuntman Autoworks said:
You want the trackbar level at half droop only when running hydraulic steering. Otherwise when running a conventional steering setup like you are, you want the draglink and trackbar to match.

What you read was for a different steering setup.
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Well crap..I'm gonna have hydro assist so still applies or no
 
You will just have bump steer and likely death wobble with poor caster and mismatched drag link/ trac bar. Since you're only planning on going slow it really won't matter other than jerking your hands around. It's not hard to imagine--the arc of the trac bar/panhard is pushing the axle housing left to right as it travels, the arc of the drag link pushes the steering right to left as it travels through the arc--if they aren't in sync then one moves more or less than the other.
 
braxton357 said:
You will just have bump steer and likely death wobble with poor caster and mismatched drag link/ trac bar. Since you're only planning on going slow it really won't matter other than jerking your hands around. It's not hard to imagine--the arc of the trac bar/panhard is pushing the axle housing left to right as it travels, the arc of the drag link pushes the steering right to left as it travels through the arc--if they aren't in sync then one moves more or less than the other.
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Okay I get that but isn't it also important to keep the axle centered when it's half or full droop. I guess I'll leave it then not drop it anymore
 
marty79 said:
Okay I get that but isn't it also important to keep the axle centered when it's half or full droop. I guess I'll leave it then not drop it anymore
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Yes and no. Yes you want the axle centered as much as possible which is why you make it as long and flat as possible. Except it is more important for the trackbar and draglink to match when using your style steering.
 
Stuntman Autoworks said:
Yes and no. Yes you want the axle centered as much as possible which is why you make it as long and flat as possible. Except it is more important for the trackbar and draglink to match when using your style steering.
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Ok so bring it back 3" where it was to be perfect with draglink or leave it flat (3" off) and will be ok...thank you
 
Ait y'all, leave track bar like this or put it back parallel..new lower mount isn't welded so I can change it back. It helped with centered axle on droop but don't/won't know effect on steering yet..A or B
IMG_20180403_200852636.jpg
IMG_20180330_163415010_LL.jpg
 
The second pic is how it needs to be. I'd also be surprised if it didn't contact the top of the diff on compression (not flexing) the way you have it.
 
braxton357 said:
The second pic is how it needs to be. I'd also be surprised if it didn't contact the top of the diff on compression (not flexing) the way you have it.
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There's only 1" up travel so all good.
skyhighZJ said:
B but I would think the tb needs to be closer to length of the draglink
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Already discussed this was told it'll work. Gotta leave room for hydro ram.

How the heck do I break the front 60 pinion yoke loose:kaioken:
 
I got 5ft bar on it and NOTHING
 
1" of up travel? Have I just overlooked this and the discussion that should follow? Anyways that id's not nearly enough, 4-6 is ideal in my eyes but more doesn't hurt either.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 
marty79 said:
Ok so bring it back 3" where it was to be perfect with draglink or leave it flat (3" off) and will be ok...thank you
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With your style steering you want the trackbar and draglink to be as close to the same length and the same angle as possible. Period that's it, anything else is wrong in your situation.
 
marty79 said:
There's only 1" up travel so all good.

Already discussed this was told it'll work. Gotta leave room for hydro ram.

How the heck do I break the front 60 pinion yoke loose:kaioken:
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Why only one inch of uptravel? That thing will beat you to death.
 
Stuntman Autoworks said:
Why only one inch of uptravel? That thing will beat you to death.
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Well that's just how the upper link worked out..seems to be common not on just mine but for many xjs who run the 3link mount up there.. technically it's just a floor plan so I could notch it out if I want/need it.

I got the dam bolt, holy crap that sucker was tight
 
marty79 said:
There's only 1" up travel so all good.
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Golly...(I haven't used that word in a while, I figured this would be a good spot)
marty79 said:
How the heck do I break the front 60 pinion yoke loose:kaioken:
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Righty-tighty, lefty-loosey?

Impact?

Smoke wrench?

Spit on it? (oops, wrong application)

Some combination of the above, quite possibly.
 
marty79 said:
Well that's just how the upper link worked out..seems to be common not on just mine but for many xjs who run the 3link mount up there.. technically it's just a floor plan so I could notch it out if I want/need it.

I got the dam bolt, holy crap that sucker was tight
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If your relying on the floor pan to be your bump stop to keep the trackbar from crashing into your oil pan and into the crank is a bad idea. That floor pan will never stop all that from happening, maybe with just jacking it up but with the full weight of the rig bouncing over bumps the floor will give in. Have you even cycled the suspension with no springs to make sure nothing hits?
 
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