"Gonna do it right...maybe!!??" Fuller's new XJ build!!!

skyhighZJ said:
Take the springs out, get rid of those stupid paper towel roll looking spring holder thinga-ma-jingys and
Click to expand...
Already did when I had to redo springs up top and figured out not needed since I went up in lift and only gave shocks 7" down travel springs stay inside factory housings
 
So if my shock droops 7" that means the axle itself drops more is what y'all are saying
 
marty79 said:
I haven't made bump stops yet, took out the pipe inside coil springs..not needed.
My shocks have 4" to go up from ride height and droops down 7" is what I did.
Click to expand...

Just because 4” of shock shaft is showing doesn’t mean that’s the travel you have

CYCLE YOUR SUSPENSION WITH NO SHOCKS ATTACHED AND COILS OUT


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Loganwayne said:
Just because 4” of shock shaft is showing doesn’t mean that’s the travel you have

CYCLE YOUR SUSPENSION WITH NO SHOCKS ATTACHED AND COILS OUT


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


Just because you used CAPS, doesn't mean he will understand. I honestly think it will work the opposite and confuse.
 
Scooter402 said:
Don't know what you mean by "doesn't look as compressed," but it looks to me that your shocks are acting as your limiting straps while checking full droop. I'd disconnect those to check for binding. Checking travel for full bump/droop includes removing springs and shocks, and checking travel, both compressed and drooped, and articulating one side then the other. If your shocks are your limiters, I'd add a limiting strap in at each corner so you don't kill your shocks the first time out.
Click to expand...

Croatan_Kid said:
You should check the suspension movement with a driveshaft in it and see IF it'll even work. You may bind up a u joint in its yoke. That's definitely not something you want to find out the hard way.
Click to expand...

Mac5005 said:
Get the driveshaft in,
Take springs out,
Put tires on.

Cycle everything and set bump stops for tire clearance

Set limit straps to keep driveshaft alive.

Measure total travel.

Get shocks and springs that work for your needed rate and travel.



All the hassle of finding/cutting springs and shocks,
I’d just save up and get some coil overs. This will take full advantage of your new link setup.

Get the springs and the valving right, and you won’t have to mess with it again.

Uptravel = ride quality.

Glad you have more spring weight than unsprung. At least it has a chance to ride well





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Click to expand...

Stuntman Autoworks said:
Your on bigger tires and adding hydraulics, whole different ballgame now.
What about the trackbar to oil pan clearance?
Click to expand...

braxton357 said:
The second pic is how it needs to be. I'd also be surprised if it didn't contact the top of the diff on compression (not flexing) the way you have it.
Click to expand...

Stuntman Autoworks said:
If your relying on the floor pan to be your bump stop to keep the trackbar from crashing into your oil pan and into the crank is a bad idea. That floor pan will never stop all that from happening, maybe with just jacking it up but with the full weight of the rig bouncing over bumps the floor will give in. Have you even cycled the suspension with no springs to make sure nothing hits?
Click to expand...

paradisePWoffrd said:
Where is the control arm going to contact the floor? Near the frame side joint? If it has 1.75" of clearance there, that doesnt equate to 1.75" of uptravel at the axle.

As others have said, you really should pull the springs and compress the axle upto the chassis to see what hits when, and then bump stop it there. I bet you have more uptravel than you think.
Click to expand...

skyhighZJ said:
This circled area is the floor pan right below the gas pedal. That is where the upper arm WILL hit. When I had my 3 link setup very similar and flexed out under full weight of the vehicle it hit and dented the floor pan in about 1.5 inches. Completely a non issue. But like has been said numerous times. Take the springs out, get rid of those stupid paper towel roll looking spring holder thinga-ma-jingys and cycle the axle. When the axle bumps take notes and set your bumps. View attachment 265895
Click to expand...

Jody Treadway said:
How much room is there between the bump stops and whatever they bottom out against?
i.e: what is your uptravel?
Click to expand...

Ron said:
How would you personally go about figuring that out?
Would it work to remove the springs and cycle the suspension with a jack?
Click to expand...

Loganwayne said:
Just because 4” of shock shaft is showing doesn’t mean that’s the travel you have

CYCLE YOUR SUSPENSION WITH NO SHOCKS ATTACHED AND COILS OUT


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Hmm.... erm... So does one think that one should cycle the suspension to see what hits/what fits?

Just spitballing here...
 
ncpartsguy said:
@Scooter402, that was an impressive quoting job. Musta took a little bit....


And apparently, we now know that shocks = bump stops. o_O
Click to expand...
Yeah, that took a minute to go back and find the first mention of checking travel...Determination! :lol:

Shocks...bump stops...

1911802d1442083017-redneck-bumpstops-front-shock-mount.jpg

Google image search for redneck bump stops produces things such as this ^

Apparently they CAN be one in the same! ...not that I would do it....
 
Jeff B said:
So what's your next move? Please tell us.
Click to expand...
Lol bleed the brakes after replacing some wheel studs on driver front and he's ready to come out of hibernation.

Oh yes I got to take one of the beadlocks apart because one of the tires valve stems is no good what am I in for..never done it.
Is it just taking off the 32 bolts the outer ring comes off and then the tire will come right off too
 
marty79 said:
Lol bleed the brakes after replacing some wheel studs on driver front and he's ready to come out of hibernation.

Oh yes I got to take one of the beadlocks apart because one of the tires valve stems is no good what am I in for..never done it.
Is it just taking off the 32 bolts the outer ring comes off and then the tire will come right off too
Click to expand...
So I guess that's a nooo.....

Getting it apart is one thing. Putting it back together will be a whole 'nother adventure!
 
Why do not remove the springs and cycle the suspension as suggested?
 
Jeff B said:
Why do not remove the springs and cycle the suspension as suggested?
Click to expand...
Well cause I've done it several times for binding but I guess I didn't pay attention to bump stop it.now springs are locked in to place so they don't move..
Tomorrow it's getting out and will just flex it then with weight on it then I'll add the bump stops and figure out limit straps..yeah yeah I'm backwards
 
Scooter402 said:
So I guess that's a nooo.....

Getting it apart is one thing. Putting it back together will be a whole 'nother adventure!
Click to expand...
Well that's discouraging
 
49willys said:
Being one of those people that builds the mall-crawler, I love the poorly built, s!it can't say what I want to to!
Click to expand...
Cmon Chris, you can say it. You should know I don't care by now lol
 
Back
Top