"Gonna do it right...maybe!!??" Fuller's new XJ build!!!

marty79 said:
Well cause I've done it several times for binding but I guess I didn't pay attention to bump stop it.now springs are locked in to place so they don't move..
Tomorrow it's getting out and will just flex it then with weight on it then I'll add the bump stops and figure out limit straps..yeah yeah I'm backwards
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They don't move, as in...permanent springs? non-removable? That seems, well.... o_O
marty79 said:
Well that's discouraging
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Why? It's not hard putting the tire back on the rim, and aligning the ring, and hand-threading the bolts and nuts back together. It's the torqueing them all evenly that is time consuming and a royal pain in the tail. That's the adventure I mentioned. Re-seating the inner bead is just putting some air to it...then finding the leaks and starting over. Adventure!
 
Scooter402 said:
They don't move, as in...permanent springs? non-removable? That seems,
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No not permanent but pry tabs maybe cut one or two out of the way to remove them. Remember how I cut my Springs therefore they don't sit properly flat so I had to kind of Mount them to where they don't move and sit straight up. They're perfect where they need to be, I ain't touching em.
Scooter402 said:
It's the torqueing them all evenly that is time consuming and a royal pain in the tail. That's the adventure I
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Yeah that's what I was afraid you'd say lol.
Should I use bead sealer or no
 
marty79 said:
Yeah that's what I was afraid you'd say lol.
Should I use bead sealer or no
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Couldn't hurt. The two-piece H1 beadlocks use an o-ring seal that usually works well when using liberal amounts of grease in the o-ring groove, or on the o-ring itself. Once upon a time I did a ghetto-fab fix on some incredibly leaky 16.5" steelies by putting some gasket sealer on the tire bead before seating them...yeah, I just said that. I did it, too. o_O It worked, though.
 
Ok so let me have it..track bar options. This one with even good bushings didn't even make out of driveway. Maybe welded front on pavement?? Either way it sucks so ...
7/8 heims on each end and call it good
 
marty79 said:
Ok so let me have it..track bar options. This one with even good bushings didn't even make out of driveway. Maybe welded front on pavement?? Either way it sucks so ...
7/8 heims on each end and call it good
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I run 7/8 heims on my Ranger's track bar with a 3 link and full hydro. I beat the ever loving piss out of it with zero issues.
You'll be fine
 
Alright so apparently I think I panicked cuz after talking with someone they made me realize with the front axle locked in and turning 37s on pavement sharp turn out of my garage of course it's going to have slop in the track bar so I'm going to hold off until I get that collar so I can disconnect the front axle. I've actually never had a test drive one of my rigs on pavement cuz in Boone I always had dirt and gravel with 6 acres of land so there was give for the tires of bite into the dirt or into the gravel. It sure as hell tour the crap out of my asphalt driveway
 
Jody Treadway said:
I run 7/8 heims on my Ranger's track bar with a 3 link and full hydro. I beat the ever loving piss out of it with zero issues.
You'll be fine
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So for future reference should I still plan to make one out of 7/8 heims is what you're saying, it will not have any slop period?
 
Scooter402 said:
What broke?

:nopics:
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Hahaha nothing, didn't make past 15ft cause I thought track bar was messed up but now I see it tore my asphalt all to hell digging in and was apparently just pushing me straight with welded front and rear. I've never done a "test" on pavement with welded axles lol
 
marty79 said:
Hahaha nothing, didn't make past 15ft cause I thought track bar was messed up but now I see it tore my asphalt all to hell digging in and was apparently just pushing me straight with welded front and rear. I've never done a "test" on pavement with welded axles lol
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You could maybe like unlock the cad and the front wouldn't pull ya know.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 
Chris_Keziah said:
You could maybe like unlock the cad and the front wouldn't pull ya know.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
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Yeah I'm stupid totally forgot I could even do that without the guts in it
 
Scooter402 said:
Couldn't hurt. The two-piece H1 beadlocks use an o-ring seal that usually works well when using liberal amounts of grease in the o-ring groove, or on the o-ring itself. Once upon a time I did a ghetto-fab fix on some incredibly leaky 16.5" steelies by putting some gasket sealer on the tire bead before seating them...yeah, I just said that. I did it, too. o_O It worked, though.
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Well spoke with someone today and they gave me the best idea I could have ever had to just slip in a valve stem through the outside carefully took me about 3 minutes got it all ready to go... hooweii that was awesome
 
Jody Treadway said:
I've thumbed one in a few times myself.

Wait. Which thread is this? We in The Garage?
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:lol: I'm seriously gonna have to get off my wallet so I can snoop around in there...I've already been given a stern finger shaking for being a bit too graphic in general chit chat...oops. my bad. lol.
 
I also wanna say the idiot who designed these Dodge unit bearings is a tard..some engineer he is. Replacing the lug studs was about dam near retarted as I've ever seen...dam engineers think they so smart
 
You've got your flame retardant gear on?

Commencing flame throwing in 3...2...1... :popcorn:
 
marty79 said:
I also wanna say the idiot who designed these Dodge unit bearings is a tard..some engineer he is. Replacing the lug studs was about dam near retarted as I've ever seen...dam engineers think they so smart
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Replacing the entire unit bearing probably isn't that much more expensive than replacing a few studs, and is a heck of a lot easier. Then you have a new unit bearing too. (and thats coming from a guy who is an engineer AND hates unit bearings)
 
jeepinmatt said:
(and thats coming from a guy who is an engineer AND hates unit bearings)
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Lol I know, btw no offense to you or others it was just a statement of frustration cause of stupid designer of them lol. Obviously there are some kick ass engineers out there otherwise we wouldn't have the things we have. (There's also some smart but dumb at the same time engineers, I've met several lol)
 
marty79 said:
(There's also some smart but dumb at the same time engineers, I've met several lol)
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Hey, hey, hey...what you tryin' to say? :D

(Former engineer, current paper-pushing desk jockey (manager) waiting impatiently for my replacement to get hired so I can resume my throne in engineering)
 
what part was difficult? I flipped mine over and set them into an eight lug brake drum to keep it off the ground level then knocked them in with a punch maybe 10 min for both sides. Were you trying to do it with the bearing on the axle? If so they make a tool that draws them in with a lugnut also easy.
 
Charles Smith said:
what part was difficult? I flipped mine over and set them into an eight lug brake drum to keep it off the ground level then knocked them in with a punch maybe 10 min for both sides. Were you trying to do it with the bearing on the axle? If so they make a tool that draws them in with a lugnut also easy.
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I did it off the car is just the whole the scenario is just stupid and mine was amount of work just to replace a wheel studs or get the rotor off, oh well
 
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