"Gonna do it right...maybe!!??" Fuller's new XJ build!!!

marty79 said:
well i had all the lines put together, then I bled the system and had a good pedal. when i went to drive it out didn't want to "roll" very easy so I just figured it would unseize while rolling out..got it almost half way up driveway (maybe 15ft) and besides steering really sucking, still wouldn't roll easy so pulled it back in and jacked it up and that's when I realized can't turn the wheels by hand at all..it takes me using a hammer and big punch to break the caliper piston back off the rotor (one first one) then the tire starts moving so that's when i figured out they didn't unseize lol, they are stuck as crap!
the axles spun freely as should before bleeding the breaks and applying pressure to the system.
T-case spun freely also when assembling driveshafts so that too I know it's just the breaks...(believe me i worried thinking the worst lol but then remembered everything spun freely before applying pressure to the break system)
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You should have found all of these things when replacing the un-usable rotors and pads, which should have happened before you bothered to bleed the brakes.
I don't know what you think will happen with rotors that are completely destroyed like that, but it isn't going to be stopping.
 
Fabrik8 said:
You should have found all of these things when replacing the un-usable rotors and pads, which should have happened before you bothered to bleed the brakes.
I don't know what you think will happen with rotors that are completely destroyed like that, but it isn't going to be stopping.
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the rotors are fine and the pads, i checked em. sanded down the rotors and pads aren't that old. Somebody was building these axles but never ran them doesn't look like it so pads are new. rotors just surface rust from sitting but no pitting or anything so sanded and look great. calipers seemed normal to me to hammer a little to break loose but just didn't spring back like others I've done.
 
what master cyl are you using?
 
Jeff B said:
what master cyl are you using?
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I kept the stock 98 brake master and my brakes work well.....even with the huge super duty calipers.
 
1stgenxxx said:
I kept the stock 98 brake master and my brakes work well.....even with the huge super duty calipers.
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yeah i know it will work just fine, the only thing I know I "should" change is the pressure balancing valve thingy...dang it can't think of proper name, but I've read you're supposed to use ones from vehicle (jeeps) with factory rear disk brakes to get the right pressure sent to the rear
 
proportioning valve stupid
 
I wouldn't worry about changing that. You don't even really need one for slow off road applications. The proportion valve is there to limit the pressure to the rear brakes. This helps if you're going into a curve and you hit the brakes hard (you'd want the front to lock up before the rears) so you don't spin around:driver:
 
Some master cyl. have a residual check valve in them. They will hold about 5psi on the rear drum brakes. This is to hold a little pressure on the springs so it takes a little less pedal.
 
Okay so is it just me or is this shift collar like super huge I don't understand how does it unlock when it takes up the whole entire housing. Is this some kind of special collar that just locks it all the time
IMG_20180407_200030768_LL.jpg
 
When the right outer axle is pushed in all the way the collar never unlocks them so WTH
 
The collar slides to the right to unlock them. With it slid to the left like that, of course it's locked.
 
Croatan_Kid said:
The collar slides to the right to unlock them. With it slid to the left like that, of course it's locked.
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oh no it's not buddy you have no idea. I'm not even gonna get into the shit wrong with this front axle...I'm welding the dam collar to each axle and welding the axle ends together and say screw it put the dam cover back on and send it...the day it breaks will be the day this useless hunk of rusty ass overpriced metal I bought will GLADLY go to the scrapyard and not look back....oh I'm just .....................this build is starting to really suck ass should've gone with my better judgement and stayed with what I had...but no i just had to pursue this one ton shit that I've overpayed for and now just to keep adding hundreds more just to get it moving.........
 
Sure....weld it. That won't make that hardened steel lock collar extremely brittle or anything and create the place where it'll probably break. Plus, I'm fairly certain if you weld it, the axle won't come out of the housing. Great idea.

I think probably 6 or 8 of us said just put a 1 piece shaft in it and roll on....

You haven't overpaid for anything. Seriously. You've under paid and that's part of what's making you bang your head all the time...that and you need a chill pill.

Most of what I've seen you say is wrong with that axle is normal stuff that anyone else would replace during a rebuild or after an axle has been sitting for an extended period of time.

I also dont understand your self-imposed, farcical deadline. Nobody is rushing you except you.
 
marty79 said:
oh no it's not buddy you have no idea. I'm not even gonna get into the shit wrong with this front axle...I'm welding the dam collar to each axle and welding the axle ends together and say screw it put the dam cover back on and send it...the day it breaks will be the day this useless hunk of rusty ass overpriced metal I bought will GLADLY go to the scrapyard and not look back....oh I'm just .....................this build is starting to really suck ass should've gone with my better judgement and stayed with what I had...but no i just had to pursue this one ton shit that I've overpayed for and now just to keep adding hundreds more just to get it moving.........
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To be fair, you used about the least desirable Dana 60 possible and then tried to cheap out and weld the diff so there's not much to bitch about. You either pay to play or do it the hard way. Swap that shit to a one piece inner and be done with it.
 
Jody Treadway said:
It'll be cheaper to install a lunchbox locker than it will to replace the whole thing.
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there was that thought at the very beginning but in my defense, these were already welded ...with a stick welder also (looked like butt in there).
so how the heck does one go and remove the inner stub shaft when you can't remove the center pin to slide the axle in and release the c clip that's my biggest problem right now which leaves me with no option but to roll with it. I actually wanted when I first bought them to run lockers so I could change gears and such down the road but it was too late
 
plus I really screwed up now cause I tried to cut the oversize collar out of the housing with plasma cutter, got it cut in 2 but still won't come out cause of the stub shaft so now i'm really screwed
 
marty79 said:
plus I really screwed up now cause I tried to cut the oversize collar out of the housing with plasma cutter, got it cut in 2 but still won't come out cause of the stub shaft so now i'm really screwed
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Why would you do that? All you had to do was take the outer half out of the axle and the collar would slide right off and out.
 
You do know you don't have to remove the center pin to remove C clips to remove the shafts don't you?
This is a front axle, the axle is retained by the hub bearing bolts, not C clips like a later Dana 35.
You just need a free Dana 60 carrier and a $300 lunchbox locker.
 
Stuntman Autoworks said:
Why would you do that? All you had to do was take the outer half out of the axle and the collar would slide right off and out.
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i wish..you guys aren't understanding someone welded together two....2 collars grinded it down and slid it on this thing to remain locked at all times. found this out yesterday when i noticed and posted up the picture of how huge it is. i have the outer out, i cut the collar down the thinner side of the groove hoping it would clear the stub shaft but still no good....
Jody Treadway said:
You do know you don't have to remove the center pin to remove C clips to remove the shafts don't you?
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on the inner how does the stub come out, the d30s are held in with c clip
 
marty79 said:
On the inner how does the stub come out, the d30s are held in with c clip
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You don't remove the center pin to pull the clip on a 30, just slide the inner inward just a hair. This axle will be the same way.

If the PO welded to c clip to the stub for some reason, you've got your work cut out for you. I can't imagine why anyone would do that. Especially since that clip is just installed during initial assembly and isn't needed if ever removed.

It is starting to sound like you didn't do your due diligence with the axle purchase and may have jumped the gun a little...
 
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Jody Treadway said:
You don't remove the center pin to pull the clip on a 30, touch slide the inner inward just a hair. This axle will be the same way.

If the PO welded to c clip to the stub for some reason, you've got your work cut out for you. I can't imagine why anyone would do that. Especially since that clip is just installed during initial assembly and isn't needed if ever removed.

It is starting to sound like you didn't do your due diligence with the axle purchase and may have jumped the gun a little...
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yep that's my problem, someone went crazy with the stick welder in there, leaving big chuncks of rod in there and big huge welds. it was all a hot mess in there when i got it all apart but didn't think it would affect the collar at a later time also not realizing the collar was made bigger. i guess i'm gonna have to try and cut out what I can to get the C Clip out so i can remove this collar and put a new one on to go with my original plan of having the disconnect ability which was my reason for buying a dodge 60 besides what i thought at the time was getting a deal ....yes now i wish I would've bought a superduty front for same price as these 2 and kept my rear 60 and just rolled with it.

I know now that i jumped the gun on these now but lesson learned and too late now so gotta work and fix what I can to make this work...what a headache
 
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