House build start to finish

[braxton357]

Thats looking great! What all have you used the backhoe for?

Don't you be trying to justify buying more junk.

 

[jeepinmatt]

Don't you be trying to justify buying more junk.

It's already justified! I have 2 front hoes and no back hoes. Every man needs a midi-excavator!

 

[hunterdan]

Thats looking great! What all have you used the backhoe for?

Literally everything. Here's a list off the top of my head,

widened a logging rd 8' over 1000'
Formed a ditch and angled bank on that same 1000' rd
burried 6-20' and 1-60' section of road pipe
Dug footers for house
cleared septic line area
cleared 1/4 acre point for wifes dogs and she shed
backfilled around the house
(dug ditch with bank behind home to keep run off from mountain above controlled which ended my original upper property access. I installed that original rd for pwr and it was 1400' through the woods)
graded in new access to rd above house heading to upper property via the upper corner of parking pad I just finished
and have done countless loads of brush, rock, trees

This backhoe has just about paid for itself already. I know what most things are going to cost with grading from past experience. Wife and I added up how much we have saved and it will be hard to sell it as planned in the end. We know it will be needed for the next 2 yrs but after that I may swap for something a bit smaller...but I doubt it

 

[jeepinmatt]

This backhoe has just about paid for itself already.

I added up how much we have saved and it will be hard to sell it as planned in the end.

My recommendation is to buy a piece of equipment, do the job you need, do the other 20 things you think of once you have it, then sell it (or not ).

 

[hunterdan]

Oh yeah! Thanks for the advice and compliment on the place. Also ad to the list another road finished with backhoe yesterday down to the creek and
moved a pile of construction debris.

 

[hunterdan]

Just an update...Working on electrical now and nearing completion. I had a few people give me quotes and they ranged 4500-7500.00 for the labor if I bought all materials. Those quotes did not include installing light fixtures. At that price I was watching videos and figuring out how to pull wires/wire a 200 amp service. Then fortunately I talked to an electrician I had used a few years ago on a small job. He priced it at 25.00HR for he and his helper. They are almost finished and are at 17hrs as of now. The final cost looks to end up at 700.00. It's hard to believe how badly people will try and stick you when they think you have money.

Pics soon

 

[hunterdan]

HVAC wisdom needed.

We are at the point of doing HVAC and just thought I'd see what peoples thoughts are regarding our current plan.

After doing a good bit of reading reviews and searching HVAC forums we have decided we like the Bosch system.
Home is a single above grade floor with vaulted ceiling (17') and a walkout basement with open stairway between upper floor and basement.
Bosch offers an inverter compressor heat pump in a 3 or 5 ton unit.Basically, the system does not run wide open when operating if not needed. It runs at a variable speed depending upon demand lengthening life of components and reducing energy demand. The contractor I'm planning to use plans to put the air handler/return above our closet upstairs. It will be a dual zone/split system with electric doors to upper and lower floor ductwork via upper and lower floor thermostats.
I know that every home needs calculations for "R" factors for walls,windows...but with the Bosch 3 ton unit it works with any home needing 1.5-3 ton unit. Mine needs about 2.5-3 so it will be the 3 ton.
My main concern now is that the contractor correctly figures the cubic feet per minute and such for each room or living area and the correct placement of the return.
He says he plans to install one return upstairs. It will be about 2/3 up the 17' vaulted wall dividing our living room from our bed/bath area. He also plans to install the registers for heating/cooling on that same wall....one about 8' away on each side of the return and a few feet lower on the wall.


Reason for one return is that the stairway is open to the basement

Any opinions appreciated as this system will be installed next week.

Thanks, Dan

 

[Curtis_H]

nc mechanical code says you have to have a return on every level the system serves unless it's a split level or split foyer and no single return can serve more than 1600 sqft.

 

[rockcity]

I'm not sure why any reputable HVAC contractor would put registers close to the return. Your house will never be conditioned as the return will always draw conditioned air from the nearby diffusers.


And, around here (eastern NC) new home electrical runs about $3/sq ft which includes installing fixtures and materials (owner supplied fixtures) and owner installed recessed lights. Recessed lights on new home construction is $100 each or $150 for remodels on top of any wiring needs.
Not sure of the size of your house but your cheaper estimates seem kind of close if it's a 2,000 sq ft house but should include fixture install. Seems like they are basically wuoting you price for everything up to rough-in as most everything after tbat is mostly fixture installation

 

[braxton357]

Are all those boxes sitting flush with the studs? Ain't you putting in some thick pine paneling? I don't think that'll fly being that it's a flammable matl?

 

[hunterdan]

nc mechanical code says you have to have a return on every level the system serves unless it's a split level or split foyer and no single return can serve more than 1600 sqft.

2 hvac guys have said it's good with one due to sq ft and open stairway but i'll dbl check. This home is 1568 sq ft

I'm not sure why any reputable HVAC contractor would put registers close to the return. Your house will never be conditioned as the return will always draw conditioned air from the nearby diffusers.


And, around here (eastern NC) new home electrical runs about $3/sq ft which includes installing fixtures and materials (owner supplied fixtures) and owner installed recessed lights. Recessed lights on new home construction is $100 each or $150 for remodels on top of any wiring needs.
Not sure of the size of your house but your cheaper estimates seem kind of close if it's a 2,000 sq ft house but should include fixture install. Seems like they are basically wuoting you price for everything up to rough-in as most everything after tbat is mostly fixture installation

How far away should diffuser be? I have room to put one 10' to left and one 8-10' to right and 3' below return all in living room.

Are all those boxes sitting flush with the studs? Ain't you putting in some thick pine paneling? I don't think that'll fly being that it's a flammable matl?

Boxes are not flush but extend from studs about 1/2" via the built in tabs on boxes. As far as electrical I got quote of 4500-7500 for full elec. minus light fixtures. I decided to get a local electrician to place boxes, run wire and wire main for approx 800.00. I plan on doing my own receptacles/light fixtures etc.

 

[rockcity]

If your house is 1600 sq ft then one return is ok.

Personally I'd place the diffusers opposite of the return to get crossflow of conditioned air in the house, not just localized at the diffuser and return that are beside each other.

 

[Blaze]

Always put the diffusers far away from the return or you will short cycle the air and have dead spots in the room.

I'd also say put a return downstairs too. If you wanted to get fancy, put one of those new home VAV systems in there, it'll keep you from having temperature fluctuations from floor to floor since your thermostat will only be controlling the upstairs. Then you can control two zones with the same unit.

I do commercial HVAC design, pharmaceutical buildings, so I'm a little more stringent than house stuff though.

 

[shawn]

I do commercial HVAC design, pharmaceutical buildings, so I'm a little more stringent than house stuff though

Meh... even those guys are winging it half the time.

 

[Blaze]

Meh... even those guys are winging it half the time.

I would argue with you if I didn't know it was true.

 

[rockcity]

I would argue with you if I didn't know it was true.

Just use a ductalator and your all good.

 

[Blaze]

Just use a ductalator and your all good.

Don't you be beating on my ductulator now!

 

[hunterdan]

If your house is 1600 sq ft then one return is ok.

Personally I'd place the diffusers opposite of the return to get crossflow of conditioned air in the house, not just localized at the diffuser and return that are beside each other.

I'd like to do that but the home design doesn't allow for it. We decided to just angle the registers away from the return and across the room at the big windows

Always put the diffusers far away from the return or you will short cycle the air and have dead spots in the room.

I'd also say put a return downstairs too. If you wanted to get fancy, put one of those new home VAV systems in there, it'll keep you from having temperature fluctuations from floor to floor since your thermostat will only be controlling the upstairs. Then you can control two zones with the same unit.

I do commercial HVAC design, pharmaceutical buildings, so I'm a little more stringent than house stuff though.

It has electric dampers and two thermo's for dual zones

Thanks guys

 

[hunterdan]

Still working on electrical but HVAC and plumbing are done.

 

[GotWood]

Just an update...Working on electrical now and nearing completion. I had a few people give me quotes and they ranged 4500-7500.00 for the labor if I bought all materials. Those quotes did not include installing light fixtures. At that price I was watching videos and figuring out how to pull wires/wire a 200 amp service. Then fortunately I talked to an electrician I had used a few years ago on a small job. He priced it at 25.00HR for he and his helper. They are almost finished and are at 17hrs as of now. The final cost looks to end up at 700.00. It's hard to believe how badly people will try and stick you when they think you have money.

Pics soon

I resent that remark. He may have been doing you a favor or just trying to pay the rent but that's it. I'm doing a free job for a friend right now (actually a barter job). It really gets my ass when people call me out for making too much money. I don't have employer benefits like vacation, sick time, profit sharing, insurance, FMLA, Christmas party etc. What I do have is a $100,000 mobile office/shop that needs fuel, tires, oil, repairs, another set of tires, more oil, a new saw, general liability insurance, workers comp insurance, new nail gun, trailer tires, etc.

I understand finding the best price for your budget and I do it all the time, but I never ask another tradesman about his price. I either pay him or find another route.

Rant off. Things are looking great!

 

[CasterTroy]

The Graybeard engineer retired and a few weeks later the Big Machine broke down, which was essential to the company’s revenue. The Manager couldn’t get the machine to work again so the company called in Graybeard as an independent consultant.

Graybeard agrees. He walks into the factory, takes a look at the Big Machine, grabs a sledge hammer, and whacks the machine once whereupon the machine starts right up. Graybeard leaves and the company is making money again.

The next day Manager receives a bill from Graybeard for $5,000. Manager is furious at the price and refuses to pay. Graybeard assures him that it’s a fair price. Manager retorts that if it’s a fair price Graybeard won’t mind itemizing the bill. Graybeard agrees that this is a fair request and complies.

The new, itemized bill reads….

Hammer: $5

Knowing where to hit the machine with hammer: $4995

 

[hunterdan]

I resent that remark. He may have been doing you a favor or just trying to pay the rent but that's it. I'm doing a free job for a friend right now (actually a barter job). It really gets my ass when people call me out for making too much money. I don't have employer benefits like vacation, sick time, profit sharing, insurance, FMLA, Christmas party etc. What I do have is a $100,000 mobile office/shop that needs fuel, tires, oil, repairs, another set of tires, more oil, a new saw, general liability insurance, workers comp insurance, new nail gun, trailer tires, etc.

I understand finding the best price for your budget and I do it all the time, but I never ask another tradesman about his price. I either pay him or find another route.

Rant off. Things are looking great!

I got a number of quotes like you yourself admit doing....I did not question about their price I just went another route like you admit "YOU do"

Also, my guy was not in need of rent or doing me a favor. He just has a hard time getting jobs because he's lazy and will only show up 1- 2 days a week. He has the knowledge but lacks the initiative....but I had time to wait.

 

[GotWood]

I got a number of quotes like you yourself admit doing....I did not question about their price I just went another route like you admit "YOU do"

Also, my guy was not in need of rent or doing me a favor. He just has a hard time getting jobs because he's lazy and will only show up 1- 2 days a week. He has the knowledge but lacks the initiative....but I had time to wait.

I'm with you 100%. I paid a drunk electrician's helper to wire my garage. I knew him from around town. He does all of the work, the actual electrician signs off.

I'm all for finding the best deal. I, as you from the looks of things, know when I have to spend the extra money and where I can get the same or better results cheaper.

 

[hunterdan]

I'm with you 100%. I paid a drunk electrician's helper to wire my garage. I knew him from around town. He does all of the work, the actual electrician signs off.

I'm all for finding the best deal. I, as you from the looks of things, know when I have to spend the extra money and where I can get the same or better results cheaper.

Thanks...I didn't think you were too upset

Update; Today I met with the contractor that's doing the shell. He has been dragging his feet lately and only needs to finish siding doors and windows. He apologized
and offered to install Cedar siding instead of the pine we agreed to use. He said my cost would be 250 extra and he would just eat the rest. What say you guys? Cedar for 250 more or pine? I'm thinking it's a pretty good deal?

 

[rockcity]

It depends on how much the original cost of pine was. B grade cedar is equal to or barely above the cost of pine. Top grade is 25% or more than pine.

If he is installing B grade cedar, I don't think he is doing you any favors and is likely finding it for a good deal and charging you more $ and making greater margins. That, or his pine price went up and he is trying to recoup some $