JK and K5 build threads Bc you can never have too many toys

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Well I still haven’t finished building that front 60, kind of hit a lump in the road because I need to buy some king pins and lower kingpin pin caps. The king pins were a little more pitted than I thought they were initially and, same for the lower caps which came out with some bearing and prying. And with holidays coming I was like screw it I can’t keep dumping money in this right now. Lower kingpin bearings came apart and were rust covered.

Tune seems spot on, how ever even with 8 gallons of fuel, I’m still having some delivery issues. Sitting on the couch watching dirt every day, I became curious if I mistakenly put a 25 gallon tank sending unit in my 31 gallon tank. I can’t remember nor do I have the box or anything. So I need to verify that, the 25 gallon tanks are about 2” or so deeper so would make more sense than the baffles in tank not working as directed. And a $85 sending unit would be much easier on the wallet than $250+ to do a hydra mat.

But on a good note the 5.38s have really made it a pleasure to drive around town, but yeah she’s screaming 3k rpm at 65. Needs an nv4500 hopefully I can fine a decent one, hopefully and earlier model so I can keep a deep granny gear. Worse case I’ve got 32 spline np208 that I’ve found some info you can take a dodge one, swap out the main shaft, shift cam, and rear case half to make a SYE. That added low range would be nice.

Right now I’m at a 69:1 crawl ratio which isn’t too bad, seems to just chug along in low range. I know I’m going to want deeper if I plan to step up to some bigger tires. So either the 208 or I’ll have to shit out some funds for a magnum/black box.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Rebuilt my rag joint, I’ve got a line on an XJ steering shaft to get rid of it. My buddy said I can’t get it till he strips that XJ I’d the drivetrain. Took a lot of the play out of the steering. I also straightened the steering wheel some but I think it needs a little more adjustment to get it perfectly level.

I also changed out the driverside valve cover to the most recent updated one. Since the gears and my cruising RPM has gone up, and helped it suck in more oil thru the intake. I’m pretty sure it’s not valve seals because if I keep it under 2500 rpm shifting early as hell it won’t smoke the next morning on start up. If this doesn’t solve my problem, I talked with Jake some and he suggested a different thermostat to keep the oil from atomizing as bad and a catch can.

Meanwhile I’m still looking at what route I want to go to make more power. I kind of like Jake’s idea of finding a gen 3 6.0 short block and getting gen 4 LY6 heads and intake on it. I would be able to keep the same harness and put a DBC throttle body on it.

I did torque the 5.38 ring gear mounted on the Detroit, and managed to torque the ring gear bolts. Back was screaming after that so it’ll be a few days till I can get around to stuffing them carrier in there and setting my back lash before I run a pattern.

But now I’m off to Swansboro for an oyster roast, might even get a chance to wet a hook. I think the Speckled trout have moved on out though. If I can find a drum or two I’ll be stoked.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

I still haven’t finished setting up those gears. Test fit the carrier and back lash was way out. And I need to up the pinion bearing preload up a little. After that I can get a pattern after I change out some shims. But got some new lower kingpin caps and upper kingpin cones.

But right now I’m trying to get my Jeep mobile, I’ve got a few friends that need to borrow short term garage space and experience to get their rigs on the road or stuff modified.

I’ve got the rear lowers tacked together, crossmember bent up and cut to size, And lower axle side mounts tacked on. Still have to notch the crossmember to fit around the back of the transfer case. Which I’ll fill in the voids with sliced long ways DOM. I could probably move the crossmember back, but I’d loose about 3” of control arm length and I’m being difficult. Really the interference comes from 3 nipples ok then back of the case in assuming from where they cast it. The bosses are tapped I believe and what the brace for these transfercase bolt to. I’m going to have to make it modular and I’ll buy the parts and do that if the trans and tcase needs to come out. I’m going to reinforce the link mounts and I think I’ll do the front link crossmember out of the same 1.75 .188 wall, heavy gussets and fish plates on the the inside of the frame to ensure it’s no budging.

Also I think with a few of these I can make the crossmember and trans/tcase easily removable without having to pull the suspension. Can always cut the places I want to make it removable later. But I’m also putting my faith in these to take the weight of the jeep at times.

I’m going to redo my transmission crossmember and keep it separate from the skid plate mounts. So there is gonna be some redesigns and refabrication of things mainly Bc it looks like shit and I can do way better now.

I also just picked up my 3/8 flat bar I’ll use for the truss. Going to tie the pinion into the truss as well. I’ve still got a good bit left till it wheelable. But if I can get the axles swapped and suspension done, so it’s just gears, shafts, and tires I need to buy. I’ll be happy. The front is likely gonna take a good bit, mainly Bc of everything I’m moving around, might even redo the front frame rails some but nothing insane.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Got the top plate of the truss bent up, kind of doing my own version of the motobilt trail truss. It’s much cheaper if I build it myself. I’ve got a pinion support I’ll use to tie that all in. Might as some gussets to the bends to just make sure that 3/8 plate stays put.

Hopefully tomorrow I can finish it up and get my upper link mounts on it. Still gotta notch out the lower link crossmember for clearance around the tcase bosses. Not 100% sold on wanting to make it modular, so I’ve been internally debating what route I want to take.That’s a lot of faith in some not so strong bolts and possibly the weight of the Jeep resting on them.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Well now that my life is less eventful I’ve gotten around to tacking some stuff under the JK, tomorrow I’ll have to cut the floor to see about mounting the uppers. I’m likely going to put a bend in my uppers to clear one of the factory crossmembers, but won’t know till the uppers are mocked in the right position. But today just worked on the lower link crossmember then had a few friends stopped by which distracts me from getting things done.

I may have to clearance the frame for the Lowers, but again I’ll sort out a lot of stuff once I can cycle it, just a good bit of work to get to the point. And loving having the plasma cutter and dialing in the amps so I can just gauge out a weld and knock the bracket off.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Well cut some holes in the floor, might have to do a little more cutting.

Then came up with a template to raise the uppers pass the top of the frame

Made templates for the passenger side axle side upper mounts but I got to a stopping point and my fat ass got hungry.

Rear springs are going to be stupid short, this is approx 1 1/2” droop. I’ll likely be doing some research once is a roller into what springs would work best. Unfortunately budget constraints are against cool overs for now. Subject to change in the next few months if I decide to pick up more work.

Was able to keep the belly flat with the rear suspension, hopefully the 3 link front will go as well.

Here’s how much rear stretch it will have. Still need to get a 13 bolt cover to make sure it 100% clears everything but right now I’m just giving myself some buffer room. Worse case I’ll hair dryer the TJ tank and modify the skid some.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Pulled an all nighter so I could have 4wd in the k5 again for this little bit of snow. Really want to do cyclones in the cul-de-sac

 

[NickMaul]

Well cut some holes in the floor, might have to do a little more cutting.

Then came up with a template to raise the uppers pass the top of the frame

Made templates for the passenger side axle side upper mounts but I got to a stopping point and my fat ass got hungry.

Rear springs are going to be stupid short, this is approx 1 1/2” droop. I’ll likely be doing some research once is a roller into what springs would work best. Unfortunately budget constraints are against cool overs for now. Subject to change in the next few months if I decide to pick up more work.

Was able to keep the belly flat with the rear suspension, hopefully the 3 link front will go as well.

Here’s how much rear stretch it will have. Still need to get a 13 bolt cover to make sure it 100% clears everything but right now I’m just giving myself some buffer room. Worse case I’ll hair dryer the TJ tank and modify the skid some.

Popular rear coils for XJ coil spring conversions are stock front XJ coils or stock front WJ coils. Not sure what the ZJ rear coils look like but that could be another starting point.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Popular rear coils for XJ coil spring conversions are stock front XJ coils or stock front WJ coils. Not sure what the ZJ rear coils look like but that could be another starting point.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah I’ve got a few different coils floating around my garage I’ll likely end up trying. I’ll be able to dial it more when I figure out how much uptravel I can squeeze out of the front.
I’ve debated doing something like how poison spyder did they northridge 4x4 u4 rig a few years ago. I’m a firm believer in 50/50 shock travel bias. Mainly Bc I feel it keeps a lower center of gravity versus a low uptravel high droop style suspension.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Pretty much finished up the sliders on the k5 need to pick up some materials before I can do the belly pan and tie the slider supports into it.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Well I started fixing the lowest bolt hole that was stripped on the back of the sm465. Used a time sert insert, I’m cheap and didn’t want to use to the kit. They use a tap to make the insert go in. After got one stuck on the tap I said screw it I’ll twin stick this damn thing finally. Ended up getting some more inserts today, slotted one to put it in with a gasket scrapper.

This seal being screwed allowed it to pump gear out out the trans into the tcase which shot it out the vent onto my exhaust. Really only noticed it after of the 5.38s.

I’ve got to swap speedo housings with another earlier model NP205 so I can move where the speedo gear drive comes out.

I’ve got to work on welding round tube. This is like 4-5 welds. I’ve got to get better at pre positioning to continue through the weld.

Still got to make the thru holes for the cables to pass through. And I’ll make some covers for it. Really want it to be my first bead roller project.

Yep, it’s a wee bit tall. Which I’m hoping it’s got plenty of leverage to shift it.

 

[NickMaul]

I am sure that is plenty of leverage. Don't accidentally bust the cables lol

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

I am sure that is plenty of leverage. Don't accidentally bust the cables lol

Oh I know it’s way over kill, pretty much ridiculous looking in the cab. But it’ll work till I come up with something else. Plus it’s kinda of cool having a story for the parts and where they came from.

 

[Pennsylvaniaboy]

Oh I know it’s way over kill, pretty much ridiculous looking in the cab. But it’ll work till I come up with something else. Plus it’s kinda of cool having a story for the parts and where they came from.

just my opinion....cable shifters for a Tcase/doubler suck....We have NWF ones in my dads buggy and they suck. I have love 15" long wrench handles for mine, connected with length on metal, mucho better than the cable style.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

just my opinion....cable shifters for a Tcase/doubler suck....We have NWF ones in my dads buggy and they suck. I have love 15" long wrench handles for mine, connected with length on metal, mucho better than the cable style.

What sucks about them in your opinion? I’ve used the linkage style and cable shifters. I’ve always felt the cables were smoother. Could have also been the shift collars and different style cases though.

 

[Pennsylvaniaboy]

What sucks about them in your opinion? I’ve used the linkage style and cable shifters. I’ve always felt the cables were smoother. Could have also been the shift collars and different style cases though.

always feel mushy on engagement, feels like things flex and move.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

always feel mushy on engagement, feels like things flex and move.

What tcase was it? I didn’t grind the shift rails on it because I won’t need fwd digs I feel like. I’ve got another 205 I’ll build for a doubler, which will likely get billet bearing retainers, adjustable detents, and a 32 spline front output. I’ll end up having to swap speedo housings again.

 

[Pennsylvaniaboy]

NWF black box/twinstick 205

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Got everything mocked up on the bench then started adding to my shifter. My plan is to paint the base black, I want to make two panels to cover the guts of it, I’ll like clear coat it or silver or something of that nature. I need to get some hardware for it. I want to asl make them sort of gated. And I need to order some billet knobs

This is pretty much where I want my shifter at, it clears the trans shifter abs covers the hole from the factory shifter. You can see where I added 1/8” strips so I can drill and tap for some cap screws.

Also the rwd shifter engages smooth and since I need to grease the pivot for the shifter arms it felt solid, lol. I broke my stud off my fwd shifter, but I’ll fix that tomorrow. Apparently I just tacked it on. Also no gear oil coming out the tcase vent, so that was good on my test drive. I need to find a better way to route my speedo cable now. I’ve got a good idea of how much of the floor I’ll have to modify to get the tcase up high enough to build the belly pan like I want, which would help speedo cable routing. But first I need to box the frame and fur it down once I get some more materials. I’ll prob have to retube the front driveshaft, but the angle will be better on it. And out back I’ll have to do cut off and reweld my perches.

Everything felt good on the test drive besides the paper gaskets on the PTO covers are seeping. I made sure the bolts were snug before the test drive, but I guess no dice. I’ll prob just glue them on with some rtv. Later on I’ll either make some or buy some, I have a feeling they must be warped. The adapter seems to be dry. Also wish I had put a sight tube on the 205.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Got everything setup with the shifters, everything is dry under it. Got the rear axle seal changed out on the driverside and drained/refilled the diff. Knocking out this list, best I can.

Still need to make the covers and get some shift knobs. It’s kinda big a gaudy, but I dig it because of the story behind the parts.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Ran an axle to a friend of mine in Goldsboro. Voltmeter was reading low but once I got to my buddies house it was fine and charging. Probably going to start cleaning up wiring under the hood, and I may start making the inner fenders. I want to build a way to secure stuff better in the bed. Like the idea of a Baja basket over top of the spare. The 38.5x14.50 are about max for behind the seat. When I do different seats and a cage I’m hoping I can make more room for a 40 or 39.5. Really not feeling a yuge tire carrier and no visibility out the back glass.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

I’ve got 12 foot of 1.75x.120 wall DOM, I’m highly considering doing the bed cage so I can mount the spare to the bed. Should put it just over the top of the tire by like an inch or two with maintaining about 5-6” of up travel out back. I know how I want to do the cross bar, how I want to make the hoops attach to the frame. But not sure how I want to do the actual hoops and where I want to relocate the battery.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Got some of it mocked up, waiting on some u bolt plates to show up so I can get my lower mounts on to determine how tall I need to make my uppers. Also that one tube is long because I wanted to figure out the angle it’ll best work at for that down tube. So hopefully I’ll have those bolt plates by this weekend.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Made more progress about to head out and weld some stuff. But here’s what I’ve got so far.

One day it’ll get coilovers

Got a few pieces to clean up so I can weld my fish plates to the frame and I’m welding DOM stubs at a 90 then notching they down tubes of the hoops to fit them. Still need to bend up a crossover tube. Only want to put bends in it to church it up a little.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Got a little more done yesterday afternoon. Then I kept having visitors so that always puts a damper on progress. My back is giving me a little trouble the last few days and today I woke up pretty sore. So I may get out there later and notch 2 more tubes and weld the mounts to the frame. I’ve still gotta clean up the fish plates a little take the sharp corners off and what not.