JK and K5 build threads Bc you can never have too many toys

[Chris_Keziah]

Personally I'd build a flat belly with where the tcase is currently, no sense in clocking it more. Smooth bellys are more important than belly height.

 

[NickMaul]

Smooth bellys are more important than belly height.

Chris, no one was asking for your personal, intimate desires.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

It’s right at what the frame would be like if it was all the same height under the belly. So I’ll likely have to fur it all down an extra 1/2” or so. It’s got plenty of belly height as is. This keeps me from having to modify the passenger seat frame too. Just gonna add a hump to the floor. It’s mainly to clear the cable shifter.

Gonna figure out how I want to go about doing it tomorrow morning. If I can atleast get this done and gusset the sliders. That’s big steps toward making to the meet and greet. Should be a fun bead roller project to practice before I decided how I want to do the inner fenders.

Seen this in a Facebook group. I like it, super simple compared to my idea of filling in the gaps between the hoops and the body.

I’ve got a sheet of aluminum to make them out of. Soon as I knock out the belly pan. And the frame plates are welded in, it’s ass and elbows this till part is done.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

So the belly pan will be 3” below the frame at the trans crossmember. I’d have to redo the whole tunnel to get it above the frame. And likely have to cut the floor the clear the top of the flange and 1350 CV on the front output. Now hopefully my front driveshaft isn’t too short. Rear pinion angle is still good. It was set a little high when I did the anti wrap perches that didn’t work. With the little bit of spring wrap these have done the pinion angle is spot on. I need to figure out a plan doe out boarding mounts for the tradition bars if I can get the belly pan done, traction bars, front hoops and inner fenders. We can all laugh at my handy work and shitty welds at the meet and greet. I’ve got 24 more days.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

So I want to go from the “3rd” crossmember to the other two. But I need it removable. I thinking it using one or those interlocking tubing connectors. Don’t know if they could handle the weight.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Here is what I’m thinking of doing with tube. Mainly trying to add some ridgity to the frame. I do plan on gusseting the sliders to the DOM tubing. Obviously can’t on the front because that’s got to be removable.

 

[Monkeynono]

As far as more bracing the problem I had was making only some parts of the frame stiff and it causing it to fracture. The stock C channel doesn't take not twisting very well.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

As far as more bracing the problem I had was making only some parts of the frame stiff and it causing it to fracture. The stock C channel doesn't take not twisting very well.

Yeah I know, I’ve got some materials to box the frame, just don’t think I’ll have time before the meet and greet.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Got more done, it’s mobile again atleast. Huge hole in the floor but I’ll get that covered this weekend I hope along with the rest of the belly pan frame work I want to do to strengthen the chassis there.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Made some more progress but got tied up doing other stuff this week. Probably not gonna make it to the meet and greet, kind of a bummer but I’m actually enjoying working on the k5 again so that’s a plus. Hopefully I can finish the belly pan framework this morning/today. And next week start of the frame plates.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Soo thoughts/opinions on those trick tabs for mounting the skid plate? I’ve been trying to find some saddle nuts with not really any luck. Really the frame work should support impacts but just need something to attach the skid to it.

 

[paradisePWoffrd]

Soo thoughts/opinions on those trick tabs for mounting the skid plate? I’ve been trying to find some saddle nuts with not really any luck. Really the frame work should support impacts but just need something to attach the skid to it.

What about welding nuts inside the vertical tubes?

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

What about welding nuts inside the vertical tubes?

The front two are used to bolt in the trans crossmember to the frame. I need to pick up some interlocking couplers, so I can make that still removable. Likely the other ones definitely. But I got a bunch of these trick tabs, but it’s 1/8” material.

Said tabs. I know these are what ppl use to hang body panels. The rear two I can do a end cap with a nut welded to the back and weld them to the verticals.

 

[rockcity]

I wouldn’t use the trick tabs for skid plate especially if your skid plate is plastic. It may be OK if you skid is 1/4” plate...

why couldn’t you use 1/4” thick tabs? Either tap the holes for your bolts or weld some nuts to them.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

I wouldn’t use the trick tabs for skid plate especially if your skid plate is plastic. It may be OK if you skid is 1/4” plate...

why couldn’t you use 1/4” thick tabs? Either tap the holes for your bolts or weld some nuts to them.

I’m planning on doing 3/8” thick aluminum plate covering the belly, and from the sliders to this belly pan frame. These were some I had in the garage. Game plan was to open the holes to 3/8 and weld nuts on the top side of them. I just didn’t get a warm and fuzzy with them being 1/8” material.

 

[paradisePWoffrd]

Use a threaded rod adapter for the front 2. Or a stud with a nut welded on in the center.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Use a threaded rod adapter for the front 2. Or a stud with a nut welded on in the center.

Seee this is why I ask questions when I know there’s got to be another way to skin this cat. I’ll look into that. Thanks.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Sliders will tie into the belly pan frame work.

And I had to clearance a tube and weld in a filler plate to gain more clearance where the muffler is.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

2 down, 4 more to go. I’ve got to figure out a mounting solution to the front two tie in so they aren’t attached to the trans crossmember. I’ve got an idea.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Driverside rear two pieces are in. I’ve got to get weird with the front ones because the frame is more narrow. And I plan on mounting flat plate to the 3 of them.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Oh forgot this picture. Kinda sucks I’m covering up all that. All Those notches were kind of a pain in the ass.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Got some metal in my eye, so been taking it easy. I got it out but had a rust ring I had to get removed. Kinda weird when they take tools to your eye. I was wearing glasses which has fallen down while I was taking a flapper wheel to those slider reenforcing tubes. Ordered some mounts for the skids, still haven’t ordered the 3/8 aluminum plate.

I did set one of these up and messed with some aluminum to see how it goes bead rolling it. Definitely need to do a few mods to the bead roller before I attempt to do the inner fenders panels.

I honestly am not sure where I want to put the battery. I want it easily accessible and easy to replace without having to move a bunch of stuff. Really debating in the bed behind the rear seat. But I need to put a junction block/fuse/relay panel under the hood.

Soooo that was a saved draft. Guess I never updated this after my fun eye doc visits. I did start this in the waiting room.

Here’s the skid mounting points I picked up. They are for 1.5” tubing but it’s not hard to mess with the radius a little bit.

And a drunk Facebook purchase just see if I mess up less tube.

Even has this nifty laser for it so I can make sure I got the right angle of the dangle. I’m sure the more experienced than I crowd will be like “you just need a chop saw and a flapper wheel.” You’re right but I’m sure having the right notch to a node is achieved much faster this way with this fancy gadget.

Maybe I just like to buy cool tools because I like tools, but I’ve been busy working on other people’s stuff lately.

Track bar mount and gears in a ZJ, about to do gears in a CJ7. Still have a bunch of fab left to flat belly a JKU that I just finished a TJ tank swap on, but that’s will be next week. Along with a JK regear. Ive also got some ARBs and 4.56s to put in a 318/5spd TJ a buddy is putting together. Soon as all that’s done I’ve got to do some rear shock hoops in an XJ, and fab up a bumper for a SAS xterra. I have no clue when I’ll get back to working on my own stuff because doing this work for other people does suck up a lot of motivation of working on own stuff. I’m still trying to decide if I want to really start a business doing this but the market is so I constant. But the local shops, have been getting such a bad rep I’m booked till mid-late November. Sucks doing this on jack stands and in a driveway, lol.

 

[Chris_Keziah]

Let me know how you like that drunk fb purchase, I've seen those and thought about adding them to the tool box for the notches that are kin to Karens.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Let me know how you like that drunk fb purchase, I've seen those and thought about adding them to the tool box for the notches that are kin to Karens.

I used it and the laser pointer part for it, it knocked off a good bit of time and fit up was pretty spot on.

Used it on the tube going from the trans cross to the tcase skid.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Tested the tacks on the JK rear suspension by sitting it on its own weight. 21” belly height on 39.5 TSLs, 7” up and 7” down travel, rear is moved back 2 1/2”. Not sure if I’ll have to do new wheel tubs for uptravel, I’ll know more today after I cut more stuff to allow me to use the factory bump stops out back. Hoping to make it a roller soon, so I can back it out of the garage and turn it around so I can do the front. I have this feeling getting 7” of uptravel up front is gonna require me to redo the frame in front of the engine mounts, which I’m a little stoked for. I had to put the plasma cutter down after about 4 beers because I kept thinking about trailing arms and race car activities on the rear when I drooped the suspension to the floor.