Just some junk on Rockwells build thread..

Looking good Rich! But get the lawn tools out of the garage! That's just wrong...oh and you need to paint over the old paint scheme on your yoter. Maybe a flat army green!

:beer:
 
The paint job stays. My wife laid those (her first attempt at automotive stuff)
 
Maybe she can try another paint scheme this time! Just tell her you are proud of your country and her work. But your rig is needing a toned down look with the FLAT ARMY GREEN!!!

:beer:
 
RockCrawler011.jpg


Sweet! :beer:
 
With about 1/2-3/4" between the pinion flange and the crank pulley ....sounds kind of tightskies!! Is it going to get that close when you are wheeling?
 
The mock-up is set at full compression, it shouldn't get that compressed very often, but the crank isn't the only thing it's close to...
 
awspence said:
this is the part that worries me
Click to expand...

Why does that worry ya? It gives me the opportunity to get one of those slick lexan hoods.. :D
 
Not alot of photos, but got a pretty fair amount done.

Installed the TCI full manual reverse valve body, and then had to take 1/3 of it apart again when I was cleaning up and found a spring... shit.
Did the twin-stick mod on the 205, cleaned it a little more, and re-sealed everything. Need a seal inside the adapter, but other than that, it's ready to go.
Tapped the steering ram mounts all the way through, 7/16-20, has about 1.5" of threads in there, it outta hold.. :D
Bent some shock hoops.

What's visible-
Whole lotta mockup - I decided I have to put the steering on the front for a few reasons - link clearance mostly, but also I would have to mount the ram 6" lower if it was on the back side of the axle. I think it'll be pretty well protected up high.
frontsteeringrammockup.jpg

Made the lower link mounts adjustable, and taaacked them in place, enough so they'll hold with some weight on them. Most of the mounts on this are 3/8" thick.. :D
frontaxlelowermount.jpg

A side shot to give a general idea of the link separation and the angle.
links-side.jpg
 
Hey Rich any chance you think you could measure how high up the topmost part of the diff sticks from the top of the axle tube? I'm just trying to get a measurement to see how much will be sticking up past where leaf springs would mount to the tube. I'd preciate it man.
Thanks

***edit: also if you could measure how long front to back the top of the diff is (trying to check for feul cell clearance) i think the furthest point out front to back on the diff are the yokes . . . ?
 
jrraw23 said:
Hey Rich any chance you think you could measure how high up the topmost part of the diff sticks from the top of the axle tube? I'm just trying to get a measurement to see how much will be sticking up past where leaf springs would mount to the tube. I'd preciate it man.
Thanks

***edit: also if you could measure how long front to back the top of the diff is (trying to check for feul cell clearance) i think the furthest point out front to back on the diff are the yokes . . . ?
Click to expand...

The topmost part of the chunk is the bulge in the cover for the ring gear, it's around 9.25" above the top of the axle tube.

Front-to-back, it's about 12", but I can get a more accurate measurement tonight.
 
Rich said:
The topmost part of the chunk is the bulge in the cover for the ring gear, it's around 9.25" above the top of the axle tube.
Front-to-back, it's about 12", but I can get a more accurate measurement tonight.
Click to expand...

Preciate it man, as far as the topmost part measurement, I meant to the top of the toploading part, not sure if when you said bulge in cover for ringgear if thats what you meant or if you meant the shaved pan you have, im lookin for to the top of the diff chunk off the top of the axle, preciate it man.
 
The ring gear is in the chunk, and there's a cover that bolts to the top of the chunk to cover it.

The shaved pan covers the bull gear, which is the freaking gigantic SOB that houses the spider gears/locker/spool.
 
Today I started on the rear frame... The rocks require the rear framerails to be this high to clear the chunk and the links...

rearframeside.jpg

Have to tie the 2 sections together, and thought about using 1/8" plate and integrating the taillights into it... Though I don't think it'll be strong enough to serve a structural purpose?

Thoughts on this?

fillpanel.jpg

(And yes, I know the frame is ALOT narrower than the existing tube.. maybe over next winter I'll narrow the ass-end a little bit, but for now, it's just more time that I don't have)
 
Spent much of the day frustrated.. I came to realize that I need to not only re-do the entire transmission crossmember, but also the engine mounts, all because of the NP205.

So, here's the crossmember before...

xmemberbefore.jpg

And now... It solidly ties the transmission and transfer case mounts together so they move as one unit, taking the rotational stress off the 4 small bolts attaching the t-case to the trans.. the most common place to break a 700R4/TH350.. The 205 mount's "foot" has quite a bit of angle to it, as you can see because the tower that bolts to the transmission is basically parallel to the ground once mounted. If you look closely, a 9" long chunk in the center of the crossmember was cut out, and the 205's mounting foot now sits on a piece of 3/8" plate.

xmember1.jpg
xmember2.jpg

I have to finish the frame-side mounts and then cope and weld the new engine mount tubes in place, and I'll be back to making more progress.
 
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