Lawn and Landscape

Macdaddy4738 said:
I'm in the market for a riding mower. My current lawn isn't big around probably just under 1/2 an acre. I know I won't be in this house forever and when I do move I'll be looking for a larger yard. I figure I'll spend the money on a good rider now rather than wait till I need it and have other expenses. I won't be using it to tow any sort of implements besides a lawn cart and sweeper from time to time.

I was looking at the JD E140 but I've found it very difficult to find unbiased information about it. I know these E series are big box specials and aren't typical JD quality, but I'm fine with that. I treat my stuff well enough and won't be doing anything unreasonable with it. While not an incredible investment, I do want this mower to last a while, at least 10 years. I'm not sure the E is capable of that.

That said, I've been eying the X330 42 inch deck model. They have a 300 off promotion running right now and a good financing deal. I wonder if this is the better route? It's certainly overkill for my current yard but I suspect the X series will last much longer than the E and be up for more lawn tasks. Thoughts?

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Forget what color they are. Look at the engines and transaxles and compare between the models that have the same. The decks are the same also. John Deere isn't any different until you get to the larger units and hydros. The rear engines with one blade are junk from the start. A 42" deck will have the same deck between all models. Service it, SHARPEN your BLADES, don't jump stumps with it, and keep it clean and it will last a long time.
 
R Q said:
Forget what color they are. Look at the engines and transaxles and compare between the models that have the same. The decks are the same also. John Deere isn't any different until you get to the larger units and hydros. The rear engines with one blade are junk from the start. A 42" deck will have the same deck between all models. Service it, SHARPEN your BLADES, don't jump stumps with it, and keep it clean and it will last a long time.
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What engine and transaxle should I be looking for? I only started looking at JD because it's what I'm somewhat familiar with. It looks like Husky gets a 10 gauge deck at my price range which seems nice.

I know really nothing about mowers. I've used hand me down ones forever and want something better. I waste so much time mowing the lawn now.

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The transaxles are mostly the same unless you get to hydrstatic but then the price goes way up. Motors are gonna be Briggs, Kohler, or Kawasaki and none are really better than the other either but a twin cylinder 16 or 17 hp should be about the smallest you would want. The 12 hp singles just don't have enough power to turn two or three blades.
 
R Q said:
The transaxles are mostly the same unless you get to hydrstatic but then the price goes way up. Motors are gonna be Briggs, Kohler, or Kawasaki and none are really better than the other either but a twin cylinder 16 or 17 hp should be about the smallest you would want. The 12 hp singles just don't have enough power to turn two or three blades.
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The one I'm looking at now has a hydrostatic K46 transaxle with a 20 HP twin cylinder Briggs engine. Originally I was looking at a 48 inch deck but I'm not sure I need one that large. I'd get an extra spindle to worry about at that size.

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Macdaddy4738 said:
The one I'm looking at now has a hydrostatic K46 transaxle with a 20 HP twin cylinder Briggs engine. Originally I was looking at a 48 inch deck but I'm not sure I need one that large. I'd get an extra spindle to worry about at that size.

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I think you would be good with that.
 
R Q said:
I think you would be good with that.
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I think I'd be okay with the E140 (22 HP Briggs with a hydrostatic transaxle - no model number) but from what I can tell the X series is worth the slight cost increase. I move up to a much stronger frame, ball bearings in the axles vs bushings, and go from a 2 year/120 hour warranty to a 4 year/300 hour warranty.

I was planning on financing purchase. I have cash now but get something from a second income source at Christmas. My bank only starts personal loans at 2500 minimum, and that's at about 10‰ apr. JD financing offers 0‰ if paid within a year. This X series has a 300 promo off so it actually comes out to be right around the same price if I used my own bank.

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I believe @maulcruiser is very knowledgeable on mowers. He has posted good information about them on this site before.
 
You rang? Haha! @Macdaddy4738 the E140 that you mentioned at first is JD's attempt at being competitive in the residential market, i.e. junk. Yes, there are plenty of people that use them for years on end, but you've already pointed out the differences between JD's E-series and their X-series. One other thing to consider in making the jump to the X-series is you automatically get rid of the B&S junk and go to a Kawasaki. To me, that is worth the money, and then JD peppered in the stronger frame, better transaxle, ball bearings in the front wheels, and a better warranty.

You're right, you probably would be ok with the E140. I have countless customers with over 200 hours on those "big box store" models. What it comes down to really is where it is stored and what kind of maintenance you are doing. If stored indoors, you follow the maintenance regime, and you clean the deck off religiously after mowing, you'll be just fine. Do not ever store a mower outside under a tarp or even the covers that are manufactured by JD. They act like a terrarium and keep the humidity high under those covers, which causes internal damage to bearings and other areas that can't be seen easily.

I'm not trying to be a salesman for JD or show favoritism to one brand or another. My favorite brand is Scag, but they're way off the affordability scale for me and most other homeowners, but they just plain last when maintained.

I'll be happy to answer any questions you may have.
 
@maulcruiser thanks for the advice! Unfortunately the 330 still has the Briggs and Stratton engine. Looks like I have to move up to the 350 for the Kawaski but I think that's just too far out of my reach. Is the Briggs stuff that bad now?

This will be stored inside of an unheated storage building. I don't think there will be too many issues with that. Protected from the elements for sure.
 
If you want all of the perks of the X350 without the price tag, check out the S240. Smaller platform still based off of the E-series, but all of the X-series perks minus the frame.

As for B&S stuff now, I haven't been a fan of them for almost two decades. Too many simple failures such as head gaskets and decompression flyweights on the camshaft.
 
maulcruiser said:
If you want all of the perks of the X350 without the price tag, check out the S240. Smaller platform still based off of the E-series, but all of the X-series perks minus the frame.

As for B&S stuff now, I haven't been a fan of them for almost two decades. Too many simple failures such as head gaskets and decompression flyweights on the camshaft.
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I don't think the S series has the upgraded frame which is what I really want. The 350 is around 300 more. Think that's worth it to get out of the Briggs engine? I'm looking for this mower to last at least 10 years.
 
maulcruiser said:
You're correct, it does not have the upgraded frame. With that said, I've yet to see a frame failure on any of these machines. To me, the $300 would be worth it, but it's not my money.
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Might as well do it. Looking at only 25 bucks a month more on the payment. Normally I wouldn't finance but honestly with 0‰ apr, why not.
 
Macdaddy4738 said:
I don't think the S series has the upgraded frame which is what I really want. The 350 is around 300 more. Think that's worth it to get out of the Briggs engine? I'm looking for this mower to last at least 10 years.
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I don't believe frame failure on a riding lawn mower is a common occurrence. I only know one person who had that happen to them, and he just welded it back together with some scrap steel. Typically the engine expires first.
 
Macdaddy4738 said:
Might as well do it. Looking at only 25 bucks a month more on the payment. Normally I wouldn't finance but honestly with 0‰ apr, why not.
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Look deeper into the 0%... many charge a fee that is more $$ than you would pay in interest over the time period. 0% doesnt always mean free.
 
maulcruiser said:
You're correct, it does not have the upgraded frame. With that said, I've yet to see a frame failure on any of these machines. To me, the $300 would be worth it, but it's not my money.
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Chose the 350. It arrives Monday!

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Christmas came early. They had a delivery fall through this morning and dropped it off today. I freaking LOVE this thing. Next on the list is a backpack leaf blower. Either a Stihl BR200 or 350 (it will be the 350 because I overbuy everything).

Now that I have this, I can finally start to get serious about having a nice lawn.
 

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Macdaddy4738 said:
Christmas came early. They had a delivery fall through this morning and dropped it off today. I freaking LOVE this thing. Next on the list is a backpack leaf blower. Either a Stihl BR200 or 350 (it will be the 350 because I overbuy everything).

Now that I have this, I can finally start to get serious about having a nice lawn.
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You spelled BR800 wrong :D
 
Doesn't matter.
 
Now he tells me! First time seeing this, & probably doesn't matter, but there's a E 170, on Marketplace {FB}, with a 25 hp engine. Hard to figure [stolen?], but owner says it's Brand New, Never used, & he has no room for it in his garage. Paid $2700, asking $2200. It's still got the stickers on it! Picture is there, but no details on deck size or engine type. In Huntersville.
 
When overseeding a lawn, how long do you wait to mow after seeding?

When I have done patches, I mowed around them until the new grass got 3-4" tall atleast.

Also, do I put soil amendments or starter fert down before, together, or after overseeding?
 
I wait as long as possible to mow. Typically until the new grass is about 4"+ tall.

I always put down starter fertilizer at the same time as the new seed.
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
When overseeding a lawn, how long do you wait to mow after seeding?

When I have done patches, I mowed around them until the new grass got 3-4" tall atleast.

Do not put soil amendments or starter fert down before, together, or after overseeding?
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My tried and true method is to soil test first and amend soil weeks out from seeding. And then at seeding time, do a redundant aerating job and then seed and fert. Water a LOT, and then do not mow until 4"-6": growth with SHARP blades! Do not let clippings lay on the turf, get them up.
 
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