Mac's YJ build with tons and 42's.

I vote #2, but I'm just partial to full body, beat to shit jeeps.
And we all know why.
I'm leaning towards putting slightly trimmed, tj rear sheetmetal on it.
I'm really not a fan of the comp cut look, was thinking if i go back to full sheetmetal, trim it , and dovetail it, I can have a more circular looking fender opening, but completely inside the tire.
Either way, my mind is made up with running 7" up 7" down at ride height, now its just down to cutting all the shit out of the way.
The one thing i want to keep is as much sheetmetal/aluminum between me and everything the tires throw. As much of a pita it is to try to leave as much of the rear tub / bed area, i think it will be easier to cut the rear section of the body off, re skin the rear section , re-do the frame somewhat, and use alum to fill everything.


I know i want to keep as much sheetmetal as i can, i like it being a mostly full bodied jeep. Its not a buggy, and i'm not trying to imitate it being one.

here are a few pics of it right now.

IMG_2590.JPG
IMG_2591.JPG


It wouldn't take much to get the body inside of the tires.

IMG_2592.JPG

The issue is with this pic. AT MOST 6.5" of clearance until full bump. I need to find at least an inch somewhere.

IMG_2589.JPG
 
Just pulled some quick measurements of things.


Wheelbase 108"
26" to bottom of frame
23.5" to bottom of skid plate
79" to top of B-pillar of cage
around 79" to top of windshield frame


The other option is to run 6" up, and 8" down travel. I just dont want to run into the same issue of it riding like complete crap because i'm so close to full bump at ride height. With the leaves it was like 4 up, and maybe 4-5 down, on a good day, and it rode like hammered :poop:
 
Step one, cut a hole in that box, step two, put your junk in that box

Looks good scooter, you tying the truss to the bourteen folt housing or diff cover?? You need to.get some more of them North Carolinian boys n their buggies up above the Mason Dixon for memorial day weekend
 
I need to find at least an inch somewhere.


:lol:

Jeep looks good. Those tires should work pretty well, if you've got the weight.
 
:lol:

Jeep looks good. Those tires should work pretty well, if you've got the weight.


They do work really well. I've had them for almost 2 years now. I run them between 4 and 6 psi depending on where I'm wheeling. They work really really well once you get them warm. The compound is just about the same as an irok IMO. They are much softer than regular sxs.
 
figured out today that the factory rear wheel opening on a tj is about 1.75" higher at the highest point than my comp cut yj rear.


Pretty much set on cutting the frame of just past where the factory b-pillar mounts to the body, where it starts turning upward. And rebuilding it back with a combination of plate/ YJ rear frame/ TJ rear frame/ and 2x4 rect tubing.

Then....

reattaching tj rear sheetmetal and trim the rear openings but keeping as much as possible.

The key thing i want to accomplish is still allow me to put a top on the jeep, and to keep the inside isolated from the outside, which means a lot of sheetmetal work in the rear "bed area and wheel wells
 
more progress lately, been a little busy to take pictures.


4Link is pretty much all done. Jeep is back on its own weight.
Just some finish welding to be done on tube inserts/links, and the frame side link mounts.

Going to focus on trans - tcase mounting, and skid plate this weekend.

here are a few pics of the progress - coilover mounts, bumpstop mounts, links, bla bla bla

IMG_2617.JPG

IMG_2627.JPG

IMG_2626.JPG

IMG_2625.JPG

IMG_2623.JPG

IMG_2613.JPG
 
Havent updated this in a while, wanted to bring it up to date.

Had the jeep out wheeling for several trips now, and it does great. The rear 4 link works great, doesn't hop at all, just plants the tires and hooks up. On uphil climbs, or downhill drop offs its predictable and doesn't hop, axlewrap, or extend to the limit straps. After everything settled I'm at 6.25 up travel, and 7.75 downtravel, with using all of the shock travel. The airbump stops it at .25" left of the shock travel when fully flexed, when the both sides compress there is still 1.5" or so of the shock shaft exposed. The limit straps are set up to stop down travel at .5" before the shocks bottom out, and I haven't notice them bottom at all even when airborne.

I'm also going to be posting some more pictures of the finished links, the final dimensions, and the final 4link calculator so if anyone wants to copy the setup to use, you are more than welcome, I did the hard work to figure it all out. Hopefully i'll crosslink some video/pics of it working.
 

Attachments

  • rear link blueprint_2.PDF
    37.7 KB · Views: 368
IMG_0490.JPG
IMG_0493.JPG

IMG_0494.JPG




How the Exhaust sneaks through. A whole 180, cut into pie pieces and welded back together to get it to fit, and the last 90 above the truss, was flattenend in the press to oval to fit between truss and bed bottom,and still have air clearance.
IMG_0495.JPG


Olivers 1350 CV Driveshaft
IMG_0496.JPG
IMG_0498.JPG
IMG_0500.JPG
IMG_0501.JPG
IMG_0502.JPG



Limit Strap/Bump Stop Configuration. Also shows exhaust, backup lights and the pocket to allow the lower link to slide out to the rear if needed.


IMG_0505.JPG



Trail Gear 1.25" joints on lowers, lowers are 2" .250 wall DOM sleeved with 2" Schedule 40, 38" long, center to center
Uppers are .750 Currie Johnny Joints with 1.75 .250 wall DOM, 31" long, center to center.


IMG_0493.JPG
IMG_0494.JPG
IMG_0495.JPG



I fit the 2.0 14" SAW coilovers with no frame cutting by putting the bottom mount as close to the backing plate mounts as possible, and bringing the top mount in roughly 10*. I also have 1.25" wheel spacers.


IMG_0490.JPG
 
I was able to wheel with Scott at Fall Crawl this year. It was cool to see another built yj with a comparable suspension set up hit the same obstacles. His Jeep works well!

Chad if you look up a few photos you will see wheel spacers on the rear axle....
 
are you running wheel spacers or very little backspacing? Just wondering how you got the wide stance? looks awesome

2.5" back spacing on the recentered h1s, and 1.25" spacers on the rear to get the Track width to match the front.

A lot of people don't care to be that wide for numerous reason, but personally I don't mind it, I think it helps when off camber and having the weight of the h1 wheel down low.
 
It looked good at Fall Crawl. Nice meeting you guys.
 
Back
Top