My First Jeep CJ

[Creekin]

Had a few minutes to work on the drivers side E-Brake.
To take up the slack in the cable, a spacer piece was made from square tubing similar to to the one on the passenger side.



The routing of the flexible lines went well.
The gussets should provide good protection for the brake lines



To test the E-Brake, Jacked up the rear axle and installed the wheels.
With the E-Brake on, the wheels do not rotate.
A lot better E-Brake then what the CJ had with drum brakes.

 

[Creekin]

Warrior Welder stopped by to help with the front axle.

To keep the project moving forward, first we needed to set the pinion angle, weld on the perches,



Warrior came up with a great way to modify the new spring perch, then weld it into position that resulted in a lot of strength being added back to the pumpkin.

With the axles in place, next was to knock on the C's, and then weld the C's.
Wound up with about 6 degrees of caster.



Thanks again to Warrior, his work is amazing.

 

[WARRIORWELDING]

Warrior Welder stopped by to help with the front axle.

To keep the project moving forward, first we needed to set the pinion angle, weld on the perches,

View attachment 278925 View attachment 278923

Warrior came up with a great way to modify the new spring perch, then weld it into position that resulted in a lot of strength being added back to the pumpkin.

With the axles in place, next was to knock on the C's, and then weld the C's.
Wound up with about 6 degrees of caster.

View attachment 278924 View attachment 278926

Thanks again to Warrior, his work is amazing.

Thanks for the compliment...Thanks for helping wrestle that housing while propped on the make shift stand. For those concerned on the housing, we fillet welded several passes back into the corner. Replacing a fair amount of meat and tied the new perch in as well. I take part of the blame for the removal of some of the cast. I described some of the various approaches and was not terribly clear looking back.

Jim, box the end of that passenger side spring perch like we discussed? Cant hurt. Weld in a tab leave the bottom open with a 1/4 or so opening across the bottom. Water and mud can then drain out.

 

[Creekin]

To install the anti wrap bar, the exhaust will need to be removed and modified.
Always wanted to put headers onto the 304 motor.
Had some time to remove the exhaust and then put on headers.

Never had installed a set of headers onto a CJ before, so the install took way longer than it should have taken.
The drivers side was a real pain.
The special locking fasteners helped the install.



The install of the headers also gave me a chance to remove and clean up the drivers motor mount and the battery tray on the passenger side.

 

[Creekin]

With cold weather coming in, I had to move the CJ over one spot in the garage.
Since the front axle is not installed, time for a tractor and some chain.

However, the bumper had to be modified some before I could install it.



After the modification, it looks better (IMHO).
Not quite happy with it yet.

Anyway, the tractor did a good job moving the CJ.



It was good to see the CJ outside.

 

[Creekin]

The front axle came back for Jason's where he set the backlash for the CJ.

Spent some time stiffening up the front spring perches as recommended by Warrior.

Everything bolted up OK.
It was tricky to get the passenger side U-bolts installed since the pinion is rotated and pointing toward the transfer case.
Since 5/8" diameter U-bolts were used the passenger side, everything should be OK.



With regards to the High top steer, hopefully, everything will align OK without interfering with the leaf spring.



Next, it will be time to paint the axle and then install the axle shafts, hubs, brakes, etc.

 

[WARRIORWELDING]

I thought the bottom of that passenger side was shaped up to use round ubolts? Allowing it to line up and not have to bend those square ubolts. Something looks off set.

The bends in those ubolts are going to allow it to get loose by pulling them staight.

 

[rodney eppes]

I thought the bottom of that passenger side was shaped up to use round ubolts? Allowing it to line up and not have to bend those square ubolts. Something looks off set.

The bends in those ubolts are going to allow it to get loose by pulling them staight.

They also looked heated with a torch, so maybe effect the temper!

 

[Creekin]

Next task is to get the axles installed.
The U-Joints were easy enough...
Not sure about the install of the spindle bearing, the V-Seal, plastic washer, and spindle seal.

From what I can gather from

Stooopid D44 front axle spindle seal question

the spindle bearing is to be pressed in such that it has a recessed into the spindle about 0.025 - 0.035"
That amount of recess allows the seal to sit proud about 0.006"

Here is a couple pictures with out the V Seal...





And with the V Seal...



Does the above look and sound correct?

 

[Creekin]

Had a few moments today to install the passenger side axle and CJ spindle



Then the wheel bearings on the Scott hub assembly along with the Waggy brake adapter and Waggy caliper and rotor.

 

[rodney eppes]

Now that you have practiced, you can do mine.

 

[Creekin]

Sure...
Just bring the parts and your favorite adult beverage.

 

[Creekin]

Finished the passenger side today



Next step to install the drivers side axle and wheel assembly



My luck continued and had time to install the front wheels



So now CJ is on all fours
Still need steering linkages, brake lines, driveshafts, anti wrap bar, and a hole bunch of little things...

 

[Creekin]

Been way to busy at work lately...

Had some time though to thing about the steering linkages for the high steer system.
Decided to try building the tie rod bar and the drag link.
Picked up some 1.5" DOM with 1/4" wall.
Also procured the MOOG tie rod ends and drag link ends
The coolest thing found was the inserts with right and left threads for the ends of the bars.



Next was to install the high steer adapters so that the bars could be cut to length.



Hopefully soon, the linkages will be made and installed.

 

[Creekin]

Anyone know of a better pit man arm to use?
Read something about one from a Ford truck?

 

[drkelly]

Anyone know of a better pit man arm to use?
Read something about one from a Ford truck?

What do you mean by better? Do you need more drop, or less drop?

4x4 upgrades and parts for Jeep, Toyota, Broncos, Scout trucks

 

[Creekin]

Better as far as less likely to bend/break.
I will need to see how much drop needed.
Hopefully not much drop of the pit man arm will be needed since the CJ will have a high steer and spring over

 

[rodney eppes]

I would think the tie rod or the studs, will give before the arm. If you go to a more off set arm, then the arm might be weaker.

 

[rodney eppes]

Had a few moments today to install the passenger side axle and CJ spindle

View attachment 280462 View attachment 280463 View attachment 280464

Then the wheel bearings on the Scott hub assembly along with the Waggy brake adapter and Waggy caliper and rotor.

View attachment 280466 View attachment 280467

Curious as to what Brand bearings/races, & seals, you used? I tried to find Timken, had no luck. Went with National [Federal Moguel] which I had been told by the mechanic & parts guy, were USA. I think my seal kits were Timken, but the box said made in Mexico! And the National pieces are China. Looking on the web, seems even Timken has outsourced their bearings. SKF [think] from NAPA, supposedly is USA. Damn!

 

[Creekin]

I used Timken stuff.
Thought Timken was good made in USA stuff.
If it does not hold up, may need to try the National - Federal Moguel
A guy at work used to be an engineer with a different MFR that make bearings in USA
He stated that they have an issue with oversees folks make bootleg parts with the USA names on those bogus parts.

 

[rodney eppes]

I used Timken stuff.
Thought Timken was good made in USA stuff.
If it does not hold up, may need to try the National - Federal Moguel
A guy at work used to be an engineer with a different MFR that make bearings in USA
He stated that they have an issue with oversees folks make bootleg parts with the USA names on those bogus parts.

There was 1 web post that said Timken had moved the bearing production to Canada, Mexico, & China, But the parts wer to be made to Timken specs. Sure, right. All my boxes, Timken & National, had a label, listing 3 different Countries, plus the parts are stamped. I see mostly China. I'll just hope for the best. I hardly put 1000 miles a year on the Jeep. Half road & half trail.

 

[Creekin]

Had some time to work on tie rod.

Put a little heat to the DOM tubing so that the inserts would slide into the tube.



The inserts were welded to the DOM tubing



The a little anti-seize and installed the tie rod ends into bar.



Used a tape measure to set the toe

Next will be the drag link.
The hole in the pitman arm is not big enough for the new drag link rod end.
Need to figure out which pitman arm to use...

 

[rodney eppes]

Had some time to work on tie rod.

Put a little heat to the DOM tubing so that the inserts would slide into the tube.

View attachment 281272

The inserts were welded to the DOM tubing

View attachment 281273 View attachment 281274

The a little anti-seize and installed the tie rod ends into bar.

View attachment 281275 View attachment 281276 View attachment 281277 View attachment 281278

Used a tape measure to set the toe

Next will be the drag link.
The hole in the pitman arm is not big enough for the new drag link rod end.
Need to figure out which pitman arm to use...

Ream it!
Can't wait to see how the OX cable hooks up! Haven't personally seen one. I'd be afraid of bashing it on a Rock!

 

[Creekin]

The the hole on the high steer was too small for the drag link end.



Followed Rodney's advice and picked up a reamer from XKUTZ (item #1776)



Was doing find by hand, and then tried a slow speed drill to make things faster.
After a couple of moments, thought I had dulled the tool.
Called XKUTZ, they said I probably work hardened the high steer.
They sent me a new tool out free of charge. They then offered to check and resharpen the original one. (Talk about customer service)
With the new tool, they were correct. I had work hardened the high steer.
Used a carbide bit to knock off the a little metal and the new reamer finished the job.



The PVC pipe above is to check the clearances.

Need to move the steering box a bit forward.
More to follow

 

[Charles Smith]

how did they say it was work hardened? by having tie rods in it for a while?