Pole barn kits

[jeepinmatt]

Makes sense, I've been milling all these pines down to 2x6s and 10' / 12' lengths. The plan all along was to go w/ an R&R truss but still try'na learn from those who've been there & done that.

To another topic, has anybody used the triple laminated treated posts instead of the solid 6x6 treated posts? The former seems to be better all around (strength, more surface area treated, more economical, etc.). Anybody have any experience w/ them? If so, anybody sourced them locally (NC)?

Seems like more of a marketing scheme than anything. The extra treated area doesn't seem beneficial because they don't rot from the center. Stiffness and bending moment are probably lower. Torsional (twisting) strength and stiffness are almost certainly less. And none of that really matters because I'm sure it's strong enough. Go with whatever is cheapest. A treated 6x6x16 was $35 when I built my shop. Now they are nearly $100.

 

[rcalexander105]

A treated 6x6x16 was $35 when I built my shop. Now they are nearly $100.

Yea, this brings the suck

 

[RatLabGuy]

Out of curiosity for those in the know, are steel trusses generally less expensive than their wood counterpart? Based on the quote above, I'm assuming the answer is yes but also curious about the "carport" style vs. something R&R would be selling.

Steel trusses are more expensive, BUT, you typically get a longer span between them. Most steel trusses are 10ft spacing, whereas wood is typically 2ft to 4ft range I believe. That also changes the construction. With steel, you run 2x6s truss to truss and typically mount a tin roof directly to it. With wood you put down plywood/OSB and shingles, or purlins and tin. Gotta look at the whole cost. When I built my shop, wood trusses and tin roof would have been the cheapest option if buying new. I found a good deal on some steel trusses on CL so that was the way to go. Also, you get more clear overhead space with steel trusses, which was a major factor for me.

Also there is "red iron" (which often isn't actually iron) and prefab steel tubes. This is a good read.

Pole Barns vs. Red Iron Building vs. Prefab Steel Structures: Which Is the Best Building Solution for You?

Compare pole barns, red iron buildings, and prefab steel structures to find the best building solution for your needs.

www.carportcentral.com

 

[RatLabGuy]

Seems like more of a marketing scheme than anything. The extra treated area doesn't seem beneficial because they don't rot from the center. Stiffness and bending moment are probably lower. Torsional (twisting) strength and stiffness are almost certainly less.

Isn't this kind of post essentially an LVL beam? Aren't they stronger bc the glue is actually stronger than the wood fibers?

 

[JSJJ388]

Isn't this kind of post essentially an LVL beam? Aren't they stronger bc the glue is actually stronger than the wood fibers?

Until it gets hot. Then your floors collapse prematurely.

 

[TonkaToy]

Just seeing this post.

This is my R&R shelter that we put up. Great people to work with. I'll eventually close it in when concrete cost are not as bad or I hit the lottery.

 

[jeepinmatt]

Isn't this kind of post essentially an LVL beam? Aren't they stronger bc the glue is actually stronger than the wood fibers?

Probably, but I didn't feel like thinking about it too hard. LVLs are also like 60% glue.

 

[Ron]

Makes sense, I've been milling all these pines down to 2x6s and 10' / 12' lengths. The plan all along was to go w/ an R&R truss but still try'na learn from those who've been there & done that.

To another topic, has anybody used the triple laminated treated posts instead of the solid 6x6 treated posts? The former seems to be better all around (strength, more surface area treated, more economical, etc.). Anybody have any experience w/ them? If so, anybody sourced them locally (NC)?

Not to be captain obvious…but I’m dealing with the fallout right now with a friend who didn’t know better…

If you are milling your boards - make sure you have a proper drying plan. Otherwise they will dry and contract after constructions and then

 

[rcalexander105]

Not to be captain obvious…but I’m dealing with the fallout right now with a friend who didn’t know better…

If you are milling your boards - make sure you have a proper drying plan. Otherwise they will dry and contract after constructions and then

Consider me ignorant, I've got some above your average duder knowledge on building but never done anything with milling or rough cut lumber. I just had an ass load of large pines on my lot & trying to make the best use of them.

Please, drop some knowledge here or feel free to PM me if it makes more sense.

 

[braxton357]

Consider me ignorant, I've got some above your average duder knowledge on building but never done anything with milling or rough cut lumber. I just had an ass load of large pines on my lot & trying to make the best use of them.

Please, drop some knowledge here or feel free to PM me if it makes more sense.

SYP dries pretty quick relative to most other woods. You still want to stack and sticker it so it does dry and without twisting and warping. Also depends the "pattern" you use to saw the log how usable the lumber will be, if it's regular flat sawn it will really want to move around.

 

[rcalexander105]

SYP dries pretty quick relative to most other woods. You still want to stack and sticker it so it does dry and without twisting and warping. Also depends the "pattern" you use to saw the log how usable the lumber will be, if it's regular flat sawn it will really want to move around.

These are white pine and were milled in Nov21 and have been sitting like this since. I generally get out there to tighten the ratchets every few months. There's roughly 120 2x6's there.

 

[ghost]

These are white pine and were milled in Nov21 and have been sitting like this since. I generally get out there to tighten the ratchets every few months. There's roughly 120 2x6's there.

View attachment 382751

View attachment 382752

To me it looks good. I don't know much though. Air dry will only take it so far. The tarp might trap some moisture. If you can let them sit in the sun on good days then retarp. That is just me though.

 

[rcalexander105]

To me it looks good. I don't know much though. Air dry will only take it so far. The tarp might trap some moisture. If you can let them sit in the sun on good days then retarp. That is just me though.

I thought the same about the sun, but I've also heard the sun is just as bad (for warpage) if not worse than the rain

 

[ghost]

I thought the same about the sun, but I've also heard the sun is just as bad (for warpage) if not worse than the rain

I would think that the straps would stop that. Like I said I don't know much. I just started playing with a chainsaw mill this year.

 

[awheelterd]

How tf did people build houses before kiln dried lumber?! What a fukking dump Monticello is

 

[untchabl]

Out of curiosity for those in the know, are steel trusses generally less expensive than their wood counterpart? Based on the quote above, I'm assuming the answer is yes but also curious about the "carport" style vs. something R&R would be selling.

I got a quote from 84 Lumber this week for 40' wood trusses (2' on center, so probably all 2"x4" construction). Two gable ends and 29 standard trusses was $6,318.xx with tax.

I'm still leaning towards steel truss construction, either Builder's Discount or R&R. From what I've seen, the R&R truss is thicker steel than the similar BDC truss.

 

[Ron]

@untchabl the builders discount price seems might good.

Do you know whats included in the price?

I emailed them asking if any doors or insulation was included and if they could price lean to additions but havent heard back

 

[Ron]

How tf did people build houses before kiln dried lumber?! What a fukking dump Monticello is

Well for starters they didnt use SYP...
They also used much thicker timbers.

If you want to frame with 4x6s you will likely never have issues.

Also they were using old growth timber which had quite a bit less reaction wood.

 

[untchabl]

@untchabl the builders discount price seems might good.

Do you know whats included in the price?

I emailed them asking if any doors or insulation was included and if they could price lean to additions but havent heard back

No doors or insulation are included. The pole barn kit includes 6x6 posts, trusses, roof tin, 2x6 purlins, nails and screws.

Enclosed option includes same as above plus exterior tin, corner trim, etc. They do not box the eaves from what I was told. Don't think it includes any rat guard but it may include a bottom trim. I have a full detailed quote from them that I can share.

Standard they have framing for placing 2 roll up doors on one gable end (no doors included and I can't remember the standard door size). My quote was for framing three 10'x10' garage doors all on one 60' side.

 

[Ron]

My quote was for framing three 10'x10' garage doors all on one 60' side.

I see you are a man of taste and culture similar to myself.
PM inbound

 

[awheelterd]

Well for starters they didnt use SYP...
They also used much thicker timbers.

If you want to frame with 4x6s you will likely never have issues.

Also they were using old growth timber which had quite a bit less reaction wood.

Oh I know. It was somewhat tongue in cheek. To hear some folks talk, rough sawn lumber is a sure fire way to make a structure fall down on a bus full of orphans and nuns

 

[WARRIORWELDING]

These are white pine and were milled in Nov21 and have been sitting like this since. I generally get out there to tighten the ratchets every few months. There's roughly 120 2x6's there.

View attachment 382751

View attachment 382752

nice stack. I'm curious about the orientation of the cut and the out come of the knot wood on some of those boards vs. strenght?

 

[awheelterd]

Also there is "red iron" (which often isn't actually iron) and prefab steel tubes. This is a good read.

Pole Barns vs. Red Iron Building vs. Prefab Steel Structures: Which Is the Best Building Solution for You?

Compare pole barns, red iron buildings, and prefab steel structures to find the best building solution for your needs.

www.carportcentral.com

That's actually not a good read. It's a sales job disguised as an objective assessment. No one in their right mind would conclude that a carport style building was of better quality than a pole barn or red iron. Except maybe the dude selling carport buildings.

 

[StretchASU]

I got a quote from 84 Lumber this week for 40' wood trusses (2' on center, so probably all 2"x4" construction). Two gable ends and 29 standard trusses was $6,318.xx with tax.

I'm still leaning towards steel truss construction, either Builder's Discount or R&R. From what I've seen, the R&R truss is thicker steel than the similar BDC truss.

The BDC trusses are a lower quality (read thinner material and fewer welds contacting points together) than the R&R trusses. I am still on the fence about a BDC 20x36 to keep the camper under simply because cost and curb appeal but am probably going with repurposed 40’ chicken/Turkey house trusses for the small hay/equipment shed project since it’s tucked out of the way.

 

[untchabl]

The BDC trusses are a lower quality (read thinner material and fewer welds contacting points together) than the R&R trusses. I am still on the fence about a BDC 20x36 to keep the camper under simply because cost and curb appeal but am probably going with repurposed 40’ chicken/Turkey house trusses for the small hay/equipment shed project since it’s tucked out of the way.

Thanks for the info on the R&R vs BDC trusses.

Funny you mention chicken house trusses. We're in the beginning stages of tearing down two 40x500 chicken houses at the farm (parents retired) so I'm considering using them for my shop build since they are steel trusses.