Project Steampunk Vol.2

Yep. I'll settle for a 1350 CV driveshaft out of a 99-04 SD truck. I've got a full 1410 shaft for the front still sitting here awaiting funding for yokes.

I’m planning 1350 CV rear on flanges and 1310 CV on flanges on front. I’ve still got a 4.0 though :huggy:


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Yep. I'll settle for a 1350 CV driveshaft out of a 99-04 SD truck. I've got a full 1410 shaft for the front still sitting here awaiting funding for yokes.
I have a stock driveshaft from a 2008 diesel F250 here if its useful to you. I think they are 1350, but might be larger. $20 and its yours. If I remember right, the joints are good too, but its probably been 4-5 years since I pulled it and swapped in an aluminum one.
 
I have a stock driveshaft from a 2008 diesel F250 here if its useful to you. I think they are 1350, but might be larger. $20 and its yours. If I remember right, the joints are good too, but its probably been 4-5 years since I pulled it and swapped in an aluminum one.
How much of a nightmare do you think that would be to ship? If you get a chance to, if you would, post a pic or pm me. Thanks.

Just ordered forged 1410 strap yokes for the HP60 and 205.
As far as the rear goes, the factory flange style 1410 is the most logical way to go about it. I have one laying around some damn where.
 
How much of a nightmare do you think that would be to ship? If you get a chance to, if you would, post a pic or pm me. Thanks.

Just ordered forged 1410 strap yokes for the HP60 and 205.
As far as the rear goes, the factory flange style 1410 is the most logical way to go about it. I have one laying around some damn where.
Well, its a 2 piece that's about 6ft long, so in that configuration, quite a nightmare. Of course i can just ship you the useful half. But I bet we could get it to ya via the power of NC4X4, even if you are in SC :p
 
Well, its a 2 piece that's about 6ft long, so in that configuration, quite a nightmare. Of course i can just ship you the useful half. But I bet we could get it to ya via the power of NC4X4, even if you are in SC :p
That's even better. I would take both halves just for cut/splice spare purposes. It's actually a challenge to find a non-mangled one in junkyards.
 
I'll have to find that one. Breckenridge vanilla porter is one of my favorites.
Walmart on G-ferry has it. Pretty sure it's a regional stock. The Yuengling Hershey's chocolate porter is also good this time of year.
 
Spare parts for the win, again. I love NP205s, especially the Ford models. 32 spline outputs front and rear with a convenient selection of interchangeable yokes. What I did here was use my old front driveshaft that has 1330-1350 conversion joints in it, and spliced together a combination to get me by for a while. This is when being a parts hoarder really pays off. All I gotta do now is burn a few 7018s and go for a test drive. At an overall length of 24.5" (cap to cap) with some very careful sleeving, I can usually get it close to true. I will have to adjust my rear pinion angle a bit going from a CV shaft to a double joint style, but I've got all day to fine tune it.
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Well, the ghetto riggery worked. It got me to work. That's the important thing.
This cooler weather has me itching to spend more time in the woods than ever. Considering all the trouble I landed myself into this year, and the friends I have in SCDNR, I'll be spending a lot of time working along side them. This is what I enjoy.
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Cheers to our European/Scandinavian heritage. We like cold.
 
Well, its a 2 piece that's about 6ft long, so in that configuration, quite a nightmare. Of course i can just ship you the useful half. But I bet we could get it to ya via the power of NC4X4, even if you are in SC :p

I'm in upstate SC, but I'd be willing to drive it down by Sat or Sunday depending on what my family has going on. I work in Charlotte. Didn't get a chance to Meet @XJsavage at the web wheelers weekend, it would be worth it.
Snow drift porter is great always look forward to it each year.
 
@XJsavage
Joints are good. I believe they are 1410s. Its pretty beef.
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Seeing your blow up 13series stuff makes me really glad I ordered my case with 1410 yokes. I don’t have friends in the towing business. Hahah.
I'll be 1410 all the way in the front. Shooting for a 1350 double cardan at the tcase in the rear and 1410 at the axle. I think that should do it.
 
I ran 1310 for a long while. After breaking a few. 3 or 4. I went to 1350 IIRC. Broke them too. I'm now at 1410 rear 1310 front. Never had a problem in the front. Most of my issues were axle wrap in the rear though. I did twist the double cardian section of a tom woods joint on it's first trip in '09. He sent me replacement parts too. Then broke them.....
 
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I ran 1310 for a long while. After breaking a few. 3 or 4. I went to 1350 IIRC. Broke them too. I'm not at 1410 rear 1310 front. Never had a problem in the front. Most of my issues were axle wrap in the rear though. I did twist the double cardian section of a tome woods joint on it's first trip in '09. He sent me replacement parts too. Then broke them.....
I'm pretty confident the 1410 will be fine in the front of mine. I've got a 1410 shaft already the correct length for what I need, and yokes in route. That should cover me there.
Since my rear is already set up for a Double cardan CV style, I think I'll stick with that. I need a junkyard trip. Badly. 99+ SD front should all be 1350 CV style. I think Dodge 2500s were too.
 
I'm pretty confident the 1410 will be fine in the front of mine. I've got a 1410 shaft already the correct length for what I need, and yokes in route. That should cover me there.
Since my rear is already set up for a Double cardan CV style, I think I'll stick with that. I need a junkyard trip. Badly. 99+ SD front should all be 1350 CV style. I think Dodge 2500s were too.
The dodge has some dumb flange with spline like groves.
 
The dodge has some dumb flange with spline like groves.
It does now that I remember back.
I was researching that years ago and someone said that those flanges with CV assembly could easily be adapted to a flat NP205 front flange.
 
Strongly considering getting a new tach. This is a cheap one off eBay. It keeps getting water in it. Who makes a good waterproof one?
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