Project Steampunk

XJsavage said:
I cheat sometimes and use a headlamp especially when welding is involved, or if pictures get taken because I hate using the flash. Nighttime land navigation on foot and on water in a boat, yes, starlight alone is sufficient.
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oorah mf
 
So when we going to see some pics of this crushing boulders beneath it?


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Heck yeah man! Gotta come for the shakedown run!!!

But come on!! I better not get on the trail before you!!! Lol. I'm expecting to do first fire this weekend and be 100 percent ready for axle welding and dshaft measuring after this weekend....

GET TO WORK!!!!
 
Brother, I'm working my ass off to get this thing done. So much crap in the way, but it helps fund the rig. Making it daily drivable is proving to be more costly than I thought. But it will be done soon. Thanks for the mention, can't wait to wheel. And yes your damn right it's going to freaking happen :)
 
I hope you hit me up for that run when it's done. Stop playing in the water and bend some tube already......
 
Loganwayne said:
The hell you been this is nc4x4 everyone has a bender or is on a bender

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I just traded mine for a built 9" for the old ECORS rig I'm going to be building up. Just need rims and tires and it's on! Plus I know where Savage lives and I have another friend in town that has one and knows how to use it. I never could get things right on mine.....
 
XJsavage said:
Follow the smell of wood smoke and look for the trees of megalithic size. I'm not that hard to find. I assume you mean Mister Jason of CFS off-road? Wanna go by his house and beat him up? :lol: I'll supply alcohol.
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I was actually referring to a friend here in Hartsville. He stopped by the shop Saturday and was telling me about his new build he's about to start. 200' dom toyota axles and 20r or something like that. Looking forward to the cage pictures.
 
SWEET! I'll be thinking about this while I'm in Harlan for the NAXJA Crawl!
 
XJsavage said:
This is what I did to the axle to secure the bender. Cut the spindle off. I added another pre-drilled plate that I could mount a large vise to but I relocated that elsewhere and permenantly mounted the bender. It stays well oiled and covered from the weather. I've had this bender now for 5+ years stored outdoors. WD-40 is your friend.
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I like that idea! However I don't have a patch of dirt I can call my own yet :(


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wouldnt it be better if the lower spreaders where parallel with the frame bracket angle, so you could span across lining up at the bolt holes?

or do you plan to drop the rear down like this (pic) and lower your seats down overall?

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Doing all my notching by hand was very time consuming. I also found it more difficult to achieve the same notch consistently. Then I moved to the chop saw method, fast and somewhat accurate but can only produce limited notch angles. I am currently using the harbor fright pipe notcher with Milwaukee hole saws, it works real nice for the price and time it saves on a build. Just my 2 cents.
 
mcutler said:
I do most of my notching by hand also. Only use my notcher for 90 down to about 60, the rest is done with the porta-band or plasma and a flap wheel.

Jeep progress coming along nicely!

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He is having a slight delay in the build Saturday.
Maybe you should too.
Just sayin...
 
XJsavage said:
Tube notching
View attachment 250041
"A good file is a very important tool to own" - Joseph Stuyck.

I've owned a few various tube notchers in the past, and they all sucked. Hole saw bits don't last long and belt sanders are bulky and hard to carry from location to location.
On this build, I'm only going to notch by hand using an angle grinder, ruler, and a file. It's something I like to stay sharp on.
If I remember to, I'll give formulas for different degree notches (some compound joints) of varying tube sizes.

I'll start with the easiest of them all. The 90.
On 1.75" and 2" OD, the magic number to hit is .75". I start with marking four cardinal direction points on a cleanly cut tube end. On two opposing points, measure and mark .75" down the OD of the tube. These points will be the peek of the deepest cut you will make. The other points will be the peek of the shallowest cuts made, which will be 0. If your chosen deep cut points are N and S, the other will be E and W. Mark then cut from E to N, N to W, W to S, and S to E.
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The only thing left to do at this point is to clean the concave with a round file closely matching the radius of the adjoining tube. The one I used is 1.75" estimated. Still, when using 1.625" through 2", it will get it very damn close.
View attachment 250047
Test fit: If its a small enough gap to TIG weld, stick or MIG will be a cakewalk. Never let your shallow points be any thickness less than the wall thickness of the tube.
View attachment 250048
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I started notching by hand by drawing a crescent on both sides of the tube and trying to mirror them. You guessed it, that method sucked ass. I am doing 1.75 to 1.75 so I have gotten a way better feel for it but it is time consuming. I have been going through a decent amount of flap wheels but I see that rather large rounded file. I'll have to find me one like that :smokin:
 
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