Discussion in 'Build Threads' started by Van-go, Jan 15, 2018.
Picked up some 37’s from a member.
I still want 40’s but with 4.56 gears installed in the rear already I better not.
Got everything cut off of the passenger side.
Shoutout to Milwaukee tools for a killer sawzall. Only used one blade for this too. And I cut a 6 inch 3/8 I beam that I jacked my floors with in my basement. Killer blades.
Grinding is always fun. Just not this kind.
Do I need to plate the side of the frame for leaf springs?
Drivers side is next.
Made a little progress this weekend. Lots of metal shavings to clean up.
Pretty much ready to get the front leaf mounts and slider boxes mocked up.
YES, definitely! Stock frame rails like to tear with the stress of real wheeling. With it being Toyota, you can probably find a kit for the rear. Plasma cut out your own for the front.
That’s what I was thinking. The rear frame is a joke. It’s thin “C” channel from cab back. I just know I’m going to end up selling this thing as I need more $ to finish the buggy. So trying to do everything for as cheap as possible.
If I run flat plate across the front, won’t that make a place to trap water? Unless I cut the plate around each hole already in the frame and weld around it.
Cover the holes, water should drain down to the lower section and out other holes. Only thing you need to leave un-covered is the vin stamped on the frame.
To keep weight down and make it stronger, I’d do it fish plate style. Multiple holes to weld more. Trapping water wouldn’t be a concern of mine. An 1/8th inch hole on the bottom of the rail would drain.
I would not bother plating the frame.
If I was trying to weld a coil over mount on I would 100% do it, but if not I really don’t think it needs it for leafs.
Trying to figure out how far forward or back I need the axle to be. Also, don’t know if the front crossmember hangs too low.
I just kinda tacked it up so I think it needs to move back a couple inches.
Trying to get it just where it needs to be for minimal fender trimming.
The only difficult clearance issues I foresee is the front driveshaft and exhaust.
Can you just extend the tubing out the sides of the existing frame rail vs being underneath? or french that crossmember up into the frame? I think that would be the cleanest looking and hang down the least.
I bet it would make getting steering packaged a bitch if he moved the crossmember up.
@Van-go I'm not sure what tire size you plan to run but I would try and move the axle far enough forward to leave a 1-2" of clearance at the firewall.
Should I go ahead and assemble the axle and put tires on to check clearances before I mount the springs etc?
I am gonna run37’s, but I want to be able to run 40’s if I can.
This one is for sale on FB. Been looking at it for ideas.
We had a friend in college that had a 04 Tacoma on leafs with a SAS. The driver side frame started twisting as he turned the wheel back and forth. I would recommend plating that side at least.
I would make sure you can squeeze a 40” tire in there without chopping too far back (into the door).
Also have been eyeing that taco on FB. It’s a neat rig.
Great work keep it up!
Moved the front cross member back 2 inches.
I think this is where the axle will end up.
Hopefully the YJ leafs sit pretty flat. Otherwise I’ll have to lower the front spring hanger down to get the height I want.
Hoping to have it on its own weight this weekend.
Going to run spacers up front so the tires don’t rub the leaf springs.
So I decided that I didn’t like the YJ leafs cause the slider boxes were too far forward and would hit the tires at full lock.
I had some rear Tacoma springs laying around I bought off here a few years back from @drkelly I think??
Got those installed which moved the slider boxes way back almost to the trans cross member. Looks way cleaner.
Had to push the front cross member forward too, which I’m not thrilled about, but it is what it is.
It’s on its own weight now. Needs some more leafs to sit level, but it’s all good.
Didn’t like the cross member.
Ditched it. Just going to mount the spring hangers higher and play with the springs to make up for the lost height with more arch.
Should also help the caster angle out.