Purple YJ Build

id also try to keep the frame rails as parallel as you can. Will make building mounts and measuring easier.

I would also build from the suspension out. Set the axles where you want them to be at full bump with the wheelbase you want. Determine what your suspension is going to be and where the frame side control arm mounts need to be to hit that. Then figure out where/how to fit the drivetrain in with all that. Connect the dots with tube.
 
How come you have the body mounts on those big body lifts pucks? If you want to keep the top of the cage as low as possible, then it seems like you need the frame up tight against the tub. Disclaimer: I've never tackled a project as big as you are doing.
 
for a no nonsense no figure approach.......Moto built four link cradle kit, on the stock rails.

other then that a GOAT built sub frame module.

Or like me, cause I like the learning curve...build from scratch. Rails, engine, trans, transfer. One module. Build from platform. If ever I did this the package would be high and tight to a tub reward as possible. I don't like foot well crowding so this would be my start point and limitation. The only next one is your imagination and desire to keep stock lines or tub components.
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
for a no nonsense no figure approach.......Moto built four link cradle kit, on the stock rails.

other then that a GOAT built sub frame module.

Or like me, cause I like the learning curve...build from scratch. Rails, engine, trans, transfer. One module. Build from platform. If ever I did this the package would be high and tight to a tub reward as possible. I don't like foot well crowding so this would be my start point and limitation. The only next one is your imagination and desire to keep stock lines or tub components.
Click to expand...

I support all 3 of these options. The cheapest/easiest is the Motobilt sub-frame like @BRUISER is using. I've been pondering the Motobilt sub-frame on my Jeep but thinking I'll make my own that will keep the belly close to the bottom of the frame rails while still keeping it flat-ish.

This is a tube frame build I thought was pretty neat on Pirate: TJ Tube Chassis (Lots of Photos) - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
drkelly said:
How come you have the body mounts on those big body lifts pucks? If you want to keep the top of the cage as low as possible, then it seems like you need the frame up tight against the tub. Disclaimer: I've never tackled a project as big as you are doing.
Click to expand...

Well, I am using 3 inch tall tubing and a stock YJ frame is 4in tall. So a 1 inch taller bushing would bring me close to stock dimensions from bottom of frame to bottom of tub.
I need about 12 inches from belly pan up to tuck my drivetrain in a flat belly.
An LS also is a little taller than I’d like, so that puts my intake barely below my hood up front.
Otherwise I would just cut my floor out and tuck the drivetrain up higher.

Hope that makes sense.

Thanks for all the help guys.
 
Van-go said:
Otherwise I would just cut my floor out and tuck the drivetrain up higher.
Click to expand...
this would give you a more compact build....top off cage to skid. Would also require more finagling. I am a big fan of compromising the two. Totally raising the drive train up into the rails will lend itself to building around the shell.....more like Matt did. Make mounts for the drive train and allow for height placement on it and those mounts til your certain.
Build with flexibility in mind, brackets can be trimmed quicker then tubs rebuilt....that my only real advice.
 
The way I would probably go about it is to build the lowest section first (belly). Integrate the lower link mounts into it, mount tub and set belly height. Build from there out and up.
 
Kinda frustrated.
Been wheeling and dealing, got some more junk. Traded for more junk. Sold that junk. Got a free trailer out of the deal.
2E6E0BF5-4C51-4CB9-BC42-E9C0C75C043C.jpeg

Still haven’t spent $ from a paycheck on this “build” so that’s a good thing I guess.

Anyways,
Frustrated with the lead time on something I ordered so I could finally start building this thing.
Ordered a GOAT built ibex subframe back on November 8th... still hasn’t been shipped. I’ve followed up a few times and they always respond with some answer, but I feel like it shouldn’t take two months to get it to me. I was told two weeks back on November 16th..
4A448102-B697-4497-9CB5-1F96F0837185.jpeg
B5797F7E-6915-4FBC-A1FC-DDDA9CACC7FD.jpeg
579E4B11-647B-481F-B8F4-AA418E4A13F5.jpeg
CDD3AD2A-F531-45D1-B28E-5C7073664BE5.jpeg

Anyways. Should be a great base to build off of. And it's given me time to buy and sell enough stuff to have some funds to buy some parts.

Got some free link mounts off an axle I sold.

4AEC0900-0553-4D5A-BD28-0B68BA686839.jpeg
 
Creekin said:
Like the trailer...
Are you keeping it, or looking to sell / trade?
Click to expand...
Anything is for sale for the right price.
I was planning to cut it and lengthen it to 34-36 ft then mount a camper to it.
But it’s a Big Tex. 20ft with 16 ft tilt 7k axles removable fenders.
I bought it from a friend who said he bought it at auction without a title. So no title.
 
Getting rid of that junk on the 6.7 must have fun.
Never liked the emissions BS on diesel trucks.
Guess that is why cannot get rid of the two 7.3 Liter Fords.
 
Creekin said:
Getting rid of that junk on the 6.7 must have fun.
Never liked the emissions BS on diesel trucks.
Guess that is why cannot get rid of the two 7.3 Liter Fords.
Click to expand...
All I had before this was 7.3’s. It’s weird for me to be tearing into a newer vehicle but it’s definitely worth it.
 
Where did you get those slider boxes?
 
drkelly said:
Where did you get those slider boxes?
Click to expand...
What Chris said. Their site was down last time I checked so I just called them.
 
Back
Top