Random pic thread.

shelby27604 said:
I have towed using trucks with an abundance of power and with an extreme lack of power. I would say the 6.0l / 4L80 combo is right in the middle. If you tow with attention to grade you won't have a problem. If you set the cruise and start scrolling through Instagram you will be revving it to redline to maintain speed.

My last truck had tons of power and twice as many gears. The engine didn't know a load was behind it, but the chassis did. This trucks chassis doesn't do anything different with a trailer on the hitch, but the engine works a bit harder. The 8 speed always ran at 200+ when towing, the 4L80 just between 120 and 150 all-day. If I towed a lot heavier and more frequently I might get the 4.10's instead of the 3.73's.

I would buy the gasser before selling the F350, even gassers are hard to find these days.
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We're leaving for PA on Sunday and will be gone for 5 days.This will be the first long trip in the F-350 since it shit the bed late last supper and I had the new engine put in.its studded,deleted,new oil cooler,year old injectors,new icp,new ipr,new stand pipes and dummy plugs so it should be good to go but I just dont have any confidence in it.A $1500 tow bill will do that to ya.For most of what I tow now a gasser would do but I wouldn't wanna put a 1-ton CC behind one.
 
press.jpeg

Pre WW2 Krupp 15,000 ton forging press.
 
JSJJ388 said:
So far so good. It was a gift from a good friend "to get you in the hobby".

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For anyone curious, I'm printing my wife's initials in ASL. We are teaching munchkin and learning ourselves. Need to work something out on the "J" , as it's currently an "I" lol

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JSJJ388 said:
For anyone curious, I'm printing my wife's initials in ASL. We are teaching munchkin and learning ourselves. Need to work something out on the "J" , as it's currently an "I" lol

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It looks like you have some dialing in of your retraction settings to do. You might need to get that worked out before taking on such complicated models
 
RatLabGuy said:
It looks like you have some dialing in of your retraction settings to do. You might need to get that worked out before taking on such complicated models
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You would be correct. Thought I had it dialed in, but looks like it needs more adjustment. Any tips?
 
JSJJ388 said:
For anyone curious, I'm printing my wife's initials in ASL. We are teaching munchkin and learning ourselves. Need to work something out on the "J" , as it's currently an "I" lol

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The J requires motion to complete the ASL sign. Does your wife have a name symbol you could use instead? They usually do not require motion. Suggested by my wife, who is an Occupational Therapist and occasionally works with deaf people.
 
ManglerYJ said:
The J requires motion to complete the ASL sign. Does your wife have a name symbol you could use instead? They usually do not require motion. Suggested by my wife, who is an Occupational Therapist and occasionally works with deaf people.
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yea thats my dilemma is that it requires the motion to complete it. But no, we havent gotten that far yet. David has learned mom and dad in the last few days though.
 
JSJJ388 said:
You would be correct. Thought I had it dialed in, but looks like it needs more adjustment. Any tips?
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Here's a great guide if you're not familiar with it already
all3dp.com

Cura Retraction Settings: How to Avoid Stringing

Retraction is the key to reducing stringing. Find out how to perfect your Cura retraction settings (including the coasting settings).
all3dp.com all3dp.com
I'd download one of teh sample models that is a set of pointy towers. Then do a series of tests, varying your restriction distance and speed.
i'm just guessing based on that stringing thats what your problem is, but if you have not yet, before you even do that, do a temperature tower to get it dialed into the right temp.
In my experience the actual "good" temp range of most filaments varies widely by MFR.

Also - is that regular PLA? Is so... my personal suggestion is, get some PLA+ or Strong PLA. Its stronger, more robust to UV, and more importantly prints hotter and is less susceptible to warping AND is more robust to temperature fluctuations.
 
RatLabGuy said:
Here's a great guide if you're not familiar with it already
all3dp.com

Cura Retraction Settings: How to Avoid Stringing

Retraction is the key to reducing stringing. Find out how to perfect your Cura retraction settings (including the coasting settings).
all3dp.com all3dp.com
I'd download one of teh sample models that is a set of pointy towers. Then do a series of tests, varying your restriction distance and speed.
i'm just guessing based on that stringing thats what your problem is, but if you have not yet, before you even do that, do a temperature tower to get it dialed into the right temp.
In my experience the actual "good" temp range of most filaments varies widely by MFR.

Also - is that regular PLA? Is so... my personal suggestion is, get some PLA+ or Strong PLA. Its stronger, more robust to UV, and more importantly prints hotter and is less susceptible to warping AND is more robust to temperature fluctuations.
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Awesome! Ill look into that. I know absolutely nothing of 3d printing that I havent learned on youtube. Very good with 3d modeling in solidworks and other programs, just never messed with the printing side of it. As for the PLA, Im honestly not sure. The guy gave ith to me and said "this is everything to do your first print". Which was true. I popped in the SD card and hit print, which resulted in a pikachu. I did order a roll of this


Amazon product ASIN B00J0ECR5I

that should be here today. I started with Cura, but am finding that mattercontrol is more natural for me.
 
RatLabGuy said:
Here's a great guide if you're not familiar with it already
all3dp.com

Cura Retraction Settings: How to Avoid Stringing

Retraction is the key to reducing stringing. Find out how to perfect your Cura retraction settings (including the coasting settings).
all3dp.com all3dp.com
I'd download one of teh sample models that is a set of pointy towers. Then do a series of tests, varying your restriction distance and speed.
i'm just guessing based on that stringing thats what your problem is, but if you have not yet, before you even do that, do a temperature tower to get it dialed into the right temp.
In my experience the actual "good" temp range of most filaments varies widely by MFR.

Also - is that regular PLA? Is so... my personal suggestion is, get some PLA+ or Strong PLA. Its stronger, more robust to UV, and more importantly prints hotter and is less susceptible to warping AND is more robust to temperature fluctuations.
Click to expand...

These came out decent. Still some work to do though. This is the fix for the wires fraying due to the way they are routed through the middle of the body.

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RatLabGuy said:
cool!
I love it when you use a 3d printer to make parts for that same printer. It's proof of how we are definitely setting ourselves up for the Matrix.
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Yea I thought it was really neat to use the machine to add to the machine lol. Got a few other mods on the docket as well. A new knob, filament guide, storage cup, and maybe a new spool rack.
 
JSJJ388 said:
Yea I thought it was really neat to use the machine to add to the machine lol. Got a few other mods on the docket as well. A new knob, filament guide, storage cup, and maybe a new spool rack.
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shit starts to get real when you recide to start replacing the real parts - better hot end, new extruder, 32 bit motherboard, adding touch sensor for auto bed leveling.
Eventually its the equivolent of a forme Jeep firewall buggy.
JSJJ388 said:
The guy gave ith to me and said "this is everything to do your first print". Which was true. I popped in the SD card and hit print, which resulted in a pikachu. I did order a roll of this
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yeah, what your guy didn't include in the package was a warning about the dial-in time and learning curve. Unless you pay for a really expensive printer that has a lot of sensors and material settings pre-selected, you have to learn a whole process of learning juuust the right settings to get things to print right for any given spool.
Unfortunately its easy to get fooled into thinking this is easy... I was bc I started out using expensive stuff at work that just always worked, and got quite the shock learning to work with a printer that was 5% the price.
That picachu comes out great bc some guy already spent the time finding the ideal settings and compiled it into the g-code already.

I'd suggest a notepad or excel spreadsheet for notes.
 
RatLabGuy said:
shit starts to get real when you recide to start replacing the real parts - better hot end, new extruder, 32 bit motherboard, adding touch sensor for auto bed leveling.
Eventually its the equivolent of a forme Jeep firewall buggy.

yeah, what your guy didn't include in the package was a warning about the dial-in time and learning curve. Unless you pay for a really expensive printer that has a lot of sensors and material settings pre-selected, you have to learn a whole process of learning juuust the right settings to get things to print right for any given spool.
Unfortunately its easy to get fooled into thinking this is easy... I was bc I started out using expensive stuff at work that just always worked, and got quite the shock learning to work with a printer that was 5% the price.
That picachu comes out great bc some guy already spent the time finding the ideal settings and compiled it into the g-code already.

I'd suggest a notepad or excel spreadsheet for notes.
Click to expand...

Oh, he gave me fair warning lol. Same reason Ive been texting him 20 times a day with random questions about this setting or that. But, hes also the guy that helped me upgrade to my Extra class license and get my VE accreditation. Hes a wealth of knowledge and loves to share it. For me, dialing it in and seeing what works and doesnt is half the fun. Its why I have 4 antennas halfway built on my work bench lol. But Im open to any input you have as well. Seems like you have some good experience with it.
 
JSJJ388 said:
For anyone curious, I'm printing my wife's initials in ASL. We are teaching munchkin and learning ourselves. Need to work something out on the "J" , as it's currently an "I" lol

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Print it as a normal "i" then mount it horizontal on a movable mount so it can rotate through the "j" motion.
It won't be perfect, but close.
 
So apparently my saw got loose yesterday. What I thought was the clutch/break messing up wasn’t the clutch/break.
 

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ghost said:
So apparently my saw got loose yesterday. What I thought was the clutch/break messing up wasn’t the clutch/break.
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Where does that bolt go?
 
It’s part of the clamp that holds the bar to the mill next to the saw head. Apparently she got loose. Will be tighter from here on. Lesson learned.
 
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