Round 2: Keepin' up with the Joneses, Mud Devils and Tony Woody

Did you ever set the IAC up properly and assign the output for it ?
I read it's a common issue with Ford TermX stuff (I've been doing some research on the topic since LS engines are my bread and butter)
 
Did you ever set the IAC up properly and assign the output for it ?
I read it's a common issue with Ford TermX stuff (I've been doing some research on the topic since LS engines are my bread and butter)
Yes. The tuner did that on his end. For now we're gonna keep the OEM IAC. But once we get it dialed in, he wants to go with the Fiesta IAC wired direct to the ECU. One thing at a time though.
 
My fuel pump has long Covid apparently...kinda wheezy

It's like an 88-98 GM truck. As long as it's whining, it's working. When it stops whining is when the problems start!
 
So long as you keep all that Ford stuff up there. It couldn't handle this abundant amount of sea level oxygen that's available :D

Disclaimer: I have never and don't plan to own anything 88-98. I'm a GM guy and they're just not really my jam for some reason.
 
I got the tune uploaded. Dudes gonna call me in the am and walk me through some adjustments I need to make.
Plus, I was super busy at work and went for a proper mountain bike ride after work
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That seat height looks like its designed to slide up an ahole and support bodyweight via the ribs
 

Emailing the tuner dooder as we speak. Nailing down what time he comes by Saturday.
Once he's done (and I finish a TJ on the lift) Ranger goes on the lift to pressurize the air shocks, finish paint and load up for shakedown run
 
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Tuner dude is the bomb. That's all I can say. Within 30 minutes he had it idling at 750 RPM, 700 in gear. Target AFR 14.2, actual 14.3. Played with IAC settings, got it playing nice with either fan kicking in. He offers lifetime remote tunes and unlimited support. He's the man.
I drove it (like a bat outta Hell) all around my business park today acting like a total Hoonigan.

While he was initially starting to tune, we noticed the fuel trims acting all wonky all of a sudden. At the same time, the fuel pump started to sound like a Whipplecharger at 8000 RPM. Pump pressure dropped to 3 psi under load. I pulled the pump and found the pickup sock totally clogged with junk (technical term for shit in the tank). Replaced the pump and sock and all was good in the world again.
Paid the man (plus a generous tip for driving 1.5 hours each way on his day off) and washed off nearly 2.5 years of stank, grinder dust and neglect.
Got some axle work lined up this week, but plan to button up mechanicals between them. Throw some paint on the cab and take it out for a shakedown in a couple weeks.
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UGGGGH!
I'm about *this* close to burned out on this thing.
Went to move it yesterday to get a TJ on the lift. Long, long crank time and very hard to start. Got it running, heard a weird noise, the serpentine belt is shredding off. I had just replaced it after the original (prior to recent round of work) did the same thing. That should be an easy fix although nothing is ANY different in the accessory drive. It was untouched for the last 7 years. I don't see anything out of alignment or pulleys binging up.
As far as the Holley stuff. I've already pulled my old A9L Ford ECM out of storage. Just about ready to order a plug and play harness and convert back to OEM EFI like it's had for many, many years.
My tuner said:
"It will need some adjustment in the cranking fuel deeper down in temp axis of the table. Reducing it at full temp is how I fixed it. Its rich during crank.
If you want to run it later with the GF I sent. Then Pull the GF and send it I'll take a look. A cold start log may be needed.
We can do some now but most cold start should be done last after its been driven a while since crank fuel is calculated off the main table."

I'm sure he's right. But I don't wanna have to lug a laptop on trips and always have to dick with the tune. I'm gonna load the tune (he had already cleaned up) later this afternoon and see what happens.

All I know is for amny, many years I checked the oil, added gas and wheeled this thing. I should have done more research (apparently) before buying this Terminator kit. Worse case, I buy a $500 replacement OEM style harness and sell my Holley kit for nearly what I have in it. Installing the OEM setup won't be a big deal as it is a couple of powers and a ground, much like the Holley. I'll just have to go back to MAF, which I was happy to be rid of for packaging reasons.
 
But... but... Holley's are "self-tuning" :rolleyes:

Sorry you're having that many issues.

You need to drop it off at a tuner that has a dyno and leave it there for a bit so he can do his thing.

Also, you can data log without the laptop by putting a memory card in the little screen.
 
But... but... Holley's are "self-tuning" :rolleyes:

Sorry you're having that many issues.

You need to drop it off at a tuner that has a dyno and leave it there for a bit so he can do his thing.

Also, you can data log without the laptop by putting a memory card in the little screen.
or I can just re-install my "worked just fine" PCM and be back to square one...

Thanks for the offer man. I really just want simplicity and reliability.
I tell my therapist the same thing!
 
or I can just re-install my "worked just fine" PCM and be back to square one...

I think it would be a good fit for you and your use, for sure.
A lot of people end up modifying their engines and when it comes to an older engine like you have, it is easier to start with a programmable ECU vs trying to adapt / modify an older setup to make it work mehhh.

If the engine is staying stock, the factory ECU is often the way to go.
 
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