Super Duty Axles

I'll never buy another kingpin axle again. :smokin:

With the beef that the newer 60s have stock, how or why people spend $1000-1500 for a front axle seems crazy. Especially the infamous 78/79. Unless your only goal is to use it as a direct bolt in for a YJ, why in dafuq would you spend that asking price for a rusty crusty that'll have to be completely gone through? I went down the PSD road last time and ended up paying $750 for a Chevy 60 to run with my gm np205 that I paid $400 for and on top of that, had to buy a Ford 205 just for the stronger front output to swap over when I could have saved money by just mating a Ford 205 to my 4l80 and been done.
As far as a rear goes, the Sterling shafts are the same exact size diameter as a 14b, same ring gear size and even larger tube diameter and thickness. The 14b aftermarket is the only thing that still makes it a great choice but when I can buy a complete Sterling rear for the price of just a disc brake upgrade on an old drum brake axle, I'll pass. Plus, the precision and serviceability that Ford puts into their axles makes me love working on one. And no worries on wheel choices, there's every size imaginable out there from stock to aftermarket beadlocks. ;)
Buy one before you have to pay dealer prices.
 
I still think the 99-04 superduty axles are the way to go for now. Yes you can get factory 1550 shafts for the 05-up axles, but with good joints (300m) 1480's are not the week link at 35 splines. Your still dealing with stock axle material. After market axle shafts for the 05-up axle's are hard to find and expensive. ECGS has there lifetime shaft kit with foote stubs for the 99-04 very resonable. I dont see the need for 1550 joints with 35 splines. Maybe 40 or 47 spline, but not 1.5" 35 spline.
 
NCJeeplover said:
I still think the 99-04 superduty axles are the way to go for now. Yes you can get factory 1550 shafts for the 05-up axles, but with good joints (300m) 1480's are not the week link at 35 splines. Your still dealing with stock axle material. After market axle shafts for the 05-up axle's are hard to find and expensive. ECGS has there lifetime shaft kit with foote stubs for the 99-04 very resonable. I dont see the need for 1550 joints with 35 splines. Maybe 40 or 47 spline, but not 1.5" 35 spline.
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I would agree with you. The 05+ axles are a great budget option for those wanting to have beef, but for most, the 99-04 axles have more options. You can get 5 & 6 lug hubs, run wheels smaller than 17", less crap to clean off the axle before building.
 
With the increasing popularity of these axles i feel you'll see a lot more aftermarket as far as shafts and lockouts coming soon. Really I'd rock stock shafts and lockouts till then blow on the 05-up SD. And I wanted to run a 14 bolt in the back of my JK and just redrill the unitbearings and rotors but I'm leaning more towards a sterling lately. More clearance stock than a 14 bolt just less aftermarket support for them, but that'll change I'm sure. Just sucks I've got 8 on 6.5 on my k5 and now the jeep will probably run 8 on 170 wheels. I like interchangeable stuff.
 
I need an 05+ front for my Duramax. I want to do about a 3" lift with radius arms and keep it low on 285s....like this one. Stock front driveshaft, no exhaust mods, stock transfer case, and won't even have to gear it. For what it costs to beef up the front end of a 2500HD, I'd be well over half way to a solid axle setup. Hell, the axle is the cheap part!
 

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Croatan_Kid said:
I need an 05+ front for my Duramax. I want to do about a 3" lift with radius arms and keep it low on 285s....like this one. Stock front driveshaft, no exhaust mods, stock transfer case, and won't even have to gear it. For what it costs to beef up the front end of a 2500HD, I'd be well over half way to a solid axle setup. Hell, the axle is the cheap part!
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Aren't the tone rings is the wrong tooth count so you'll loose ABS and all that Stuff? Would the 03-up Dodge front axle be better since they use the same tone ring tooth count?
 
Don't know if they are or not, but I know they're the easiest axle to use. Especially to keep it that low with radius arms. My understanding of the ABS tooth count is that as long as they're both the same, it doesn't care how many teeth there are, within reason. It just sees a pulse and makes sure there isn't a drastic difference between them. The VSS acts as the ABS sesor for the rear and when you change tire size in the ECM, that only changes what the rear ABS/VSS reads. You have to go in the BCM with a high dollar scan tool to change what the front ABS sensors read.

I wouldn't use an axle without lockout hubs and there's also that weird ass pinion yoke that Dodge used. The Ford axles are also pretty easy to find. Found one local for 500 bucks, probably going to have to pick it up this weekend!

I'll more than likely use the WFO setup.


WFO DMAX 3" SAS Kit using Ford Superduty Axle (Radius Arm) | Chevy GMC 2500 and 3500 HD 99-10 | WFOConcepts.com
 
I can have a matching front and rear srw set of 05+ axles with or without factory radius arms for sale (120k miles) out of a f250 gas truck, possibly with some factory steel rims, within a week or two if someone is looking.

Also have a couple ford np205's in my possession.

Matt
 
Found some cool stuff on pirate. Ford has updated the part numbers for 05-up SD axles. The replacements are 1550 jointed shafts.
0129d87c015553a4ffe4b2c8bcf3e1ca.jpg


FC3Z-3220-B short side
FC3Z-3219-B long side

These are the part numbers. Evidently in 2016 and newer super duties they went with a 1550 joint.
 
Here is a screen shot from the pirate thread regarding rotors to use as a template for a 8 on 6.5 pattern
ebbc76a2ebfe0475a9812c98678afee9.png
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
Found some cool stuff on pirate. Ford has updated the part numbers for 05-up SD axles. The replacements are 1550 jointed shafts.
0129d87c015553a4ffe4b2c8bcf3e1ca.jpg


FC3Z-3220-B short side
FC3Z-3219-B long side

These are the part numbers. Evidently in 2016 and newer super duties they went with a 1550 joint.
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I don't understand why everyone makes a big deal over the 1550 u joints. With 35 spine shafts, a 1480 is not the weak point. My personal opinion is a 1550 u joint is pointless unless your going 40 spline or larger.
 
Well for both shafts it's under $400. A lot cheaper than $2500 for chromoly 1480 shafts and joints or RCVs


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The problem is I don't believe they are an upgrade. I think they would be wasted money. The shaft is going to brake long before the u joint, whether it be 1550 or 1480.

In the same thread on pirate, there are also quite a few people who have broken several of the stub shafts. Some in a jk with a 3.8 and 40's. Yes they are 35 spline, but the material is still sub standard. The best buy for the 05-up axles currently would be the chromo stub shafts from Branik. Running these with stock inners would hold up to alot.
 
I still think the 99-04 axles are CURRENTLY the best buy. They will get there eventually, but the after market hasn't caught up to the 05-up axles yet. Yes there are aftermarket parts, but not enough to drive the price of these parts down. The 99-04 axles are marginally cheaper, but after market parts are significantly cheaper.

The cheapest chromo stub shafts for the 05-up axles are 250$ each. You can buy chromo 35 spline 99-04 stubs for 150 bucks all day long from a list of venders. (BTW, ECGS said they have there lifetime warrantied shaft kits for this axle also.)

FORD 60 CHROMOLY 35 spline- Outer Stubs Unit bearing Style

On top of that, the 99-04 axle use the same locking hubs or drive flanges the old 60's use. They are cheap to source new or used.
 
NCJeeplover said:
The problem is I don't believe they are an upgrade. I think they would be wasted money. The shaft is going to brake long before the u joint, whether it be 1550 or 1480.

In the same thread on pirate, there are also quite a few people who have broken several of the stub shafts. Some in a jk with a 3.8 and 40's. Yes they are 35 spline, but the material is still sub standard. The best buy for the 05-up axles currently would be the chromo stub shafts from Branik. Running these with stock inners would hold up to alot.
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The failures I was reading about last night (pages 103-116) came from the ears on the yokes stretching on the 05-up, not the stub shafts breaking . I'll go back and reread it
 
NCJeeplover said:
I still think the 99-04 axles are CURRENTLY the best buy. They will get there eventually, but the after market hasn't caught up to the 05-up axles yet. Yes there are aftermarket parts, but not enough to drive the price of these parts down. The 99-04 axles are marginally cheaper, but after market parts are significantly cheaper.

The cheapest chromo stub shafts for the 05-up axles are 250$ each. You can buy chromo 35 spline 99-04 stubs for 150 bucks all day long from a list of venders. (BTW, ECGS said they have there lifetime warrantied shaft kits for this axle also.)

FORD 60 CHROMOLY 35 spline- Outer Stubs Unit bearing Style

On top of that, the 99-04 axle use the same locking hubs or drive flanges the old 60's use. They are cheap to source new or used.
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But you have to buy new unit bearings or bore the stock ones to use 35 spline.
 
NCJeeplover said:
For a trail only rig there are cheap ways around that. I know of several guys that bored the unit bearings with a 1-1/2 drill bit on a drill press. Believe it or not it worked.
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1 1/2" Drill Bit? that probably costs as much as new unit bearings! :D
 
21202957ee1fe00a67013494062b04b0.jpg


Ok going back and rereading a good portion of the thread. This is the u-joint and stub from the 40" tire JK. The guy said the u-joint failed and it took out the shafts. Not trying to start a pissing contest or anything, just making sure it's the right info.

36c1b3dbc865b08d29c3abcb92c960b5.jpg


Here is another the 1480 u joint failed and took out the shafts.
 
Maybe it's just my brain. But I've often reasoned that bigger isn't always better regarding joints be it axle or driveshaft.

Think of a four way wrench breaking lug nuts loose. Imagine the fourway with 12" legs is a 1480-1550 what have you...and think of the stuck lug nut as the axle shaft or ears... of course it breaks the lug nut loose with ease - or in our case the axle shaft snapped. Because of the increased leverage of the cross length... nevermind cap diameter.

Now picture a stock size kp Dana 60 (sorry I don't recall the number designation) joint or a 1350 drive shaft (versus the extra leverage of 1410)... Imagine the legs of this fourway are 8" rather than 12 like above. Takes a bit more force but the lack of leverage didn't break anything in rotation, or the lug nuts loose.
- especially 1350/1410, same cap, same cross diameter, longer legs for leverage...

(And with the pictures above... it further adds to my reasoning considering like shaft material with the larger joints of the 05 up units).


All this may just be my simple reasoning, and I'm sure no one will agree with my logic... but it has worked for me for many years.

Simply stated, this is why I only use 1350 driveshaft joints, and dana 60 ctm axle joints. Since doing so, with quality chromoly shafts no more breakage. Even made it 4 years before finally wearing out a 1350 joint on my rear shaft on the buggy.


Someone will likely say I drive like a granny or don't push my rig, but my group can tell you otherwise. I certainly don't drive with total disregard though, and I take excellent care of my equipment on the trail and off.

We'll save the strength of Toyota driveshaft joints for a later discussion...[emoji6]


... side note...i always want my driveshaft to be the fuseable link I'm my drivetrain , but that's just me.

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mcutler said:
i always want my driveshaft to be the fuseable link I'm my drivetrain , but that's just me.
Click to expand...
And me. And most people who think it through.
 
I picked up a 256(10" gear) 05-up SD axle this past weekend. I'm gonna try those stock replacement 1550 shafts first before I spend the money on a chromo set. Mainly because I'm a cheap ass. It'll be going in my JK that will be on 42s or so. I've had a few friends on the west coast tell me some spicer non greasables in the stock 1480 shafts work really well. Most of them are on sticky BFGs and taking trips to the Hammers/Arizona/New Mexico. It won't be till the spring before I do the 1 tons and link my jeep. Still gathering parts on my college budget.


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