What have you done to your rig today?

orange150 said:
It took me five freaking hours to replace my leaking RTV gasketed rear diff cover with a lube locker yesterday.

Removed the cover, cleaned the mating surface on the Barnes diff cover, wiped the center section out and cleaned that mating surface, lined the gasket up, threw the diff cover up there, started the easy bolts (bottom 7), got the two outer top bolts in, and the center top would not go in. I could get a few threads started then it would bind up like it was cross threaded. Dammit.
Took the cover back off, tried the bolt, couldn't get it started. Brought out the tap, cleaned it up, threw the diff cover back up there, started the easy bolts (bottom 7), got one outer top bolt in, now the center and the right top would not go in. WTF!?!
Took the cover back off, tried the bolt, couldn't get it started. Brought out the tap, cleaned all the threads up, ran the bolts through a die, threw the diff cover back up there, started the easy bolts (bottom 7), got one outer top bolt in, now the center and the right top would not go in. Ran the tap in the holes with the diff cover up there, had to wiggle the two bolts to get them started right and they finally went in. Fuuuuuuu that was annoying.

I should have jacked the Jeep up so I could access those top bolts easier, but I was trying to do it "quickly" in the middle of the day. With the 20 gallon tank in the top bolts are hard to get to, compounded by the larger Barnes diff cover. There's about 1" of clearance between the diff and the gas tank.
View attachment 389499View attachment 389500

On the bright side the diff doesn't leak anymore. Now to get the D300 to stop leaking....
Click to expand...
“This should be easy. Won’t take long at all.”
I’ve eaten those words I can’t tell you how many times.
 
orange150 said:
It took me five freaking hours to replace my leaking RTV gasketed rear diff cover with a lube locker yesterday.

Removed the cover, cleaned the mating surface on the Barnes diff cover, wiped the center section out and cleaned that mating surface, lined the gasket up, threw the diff cover up there, started the easy bolts (bottom 7), got the two outer top bolts in, and the center top would not go in. I could get a few threads started then it would bind up like it was cross threaded. Dammit.
Took the cover back off, tried the bolt, couldn't get it started. Brought out the tap, cleaned it up, threw the diff cover back up there, started the easy bolts (bottom 7), got one outer top bolt in, now the center and the right top would not go in. WTF!?!
Took the cover back off, tried the bolt, couldn't get it started. Brought out the tap, cleaned all the threads up, ran the bolts through a die, threw the diff cover back up there, started the easy bolts (bottom 7), got one outer top bolt in, now the center and the right top would not go in. Ran the tap in the holes with the diff cover up there, had to wiggle the two bolts to get them started right and they finally went in. Fuuuuuuu that was annoying.

I should have jacked the Jeep up so I could access those top bolts easier, but I was trying to do it "quickly" in the middle of the day. With the 20 gallon tank in the top bolts are hard to get to, compounded by the larger Barnes diff cover. There's about 1" of clearance between the diff and the gas tank.
View attachment 389499View attachment 389500

On the bright side the diff doesn't leak anymore. Now to get the D300 to stop leaking....
Click to expand...
Hey man let’s not go too overkill on the tire parking brake rock :flipoff2:
 
Threw my pocket book at it again… parts pile is growing but not enough time to wrench this weekend. As usual it’s the little stuff that adds up to cost the most
 
orange150 said:
There's about 1" of clearance between the diff and the gas tank.
Click to expand...
Here’s how close it is.
E29E4833-C2F7-4950-AF56-420485F1F898.jpeg
 
justjeepin86 said:
Finally moving off my table! Just need to rebuild the calipers and add brake pads. Next is converting my rear axleshafts to 6 on 5.5
Click to expand...

1673967264486.png
 
fired up the EB for the first time in a while, mostly bled the brakes and steering, and moved it to the other side of the shop. Also, put a new weber on the old truck. Got it to idle, but its going to need bigger jets.
 
20230118_185422.jpg


20230119_182658.jpg


20230119_184050.jpg


20230119_191946.jpg


Had to widen the Ruff Stuff battery box. Naturally, nothing else is the same size as an Optima...which is fine, I won't be using any more of those. The old Red Tops started going downhill almost as soon as I bought them, but I limped them along for four years with an Optima DC-1200 battery charger. They got to where they wouldn't hold more than 12.1 volts.

Now I've got a fresh 2000 cranking amps and I wish I had done it years ago. I got out for 160 a piece. Not bad! I'm glad somebody else make 34/78 batteries that are still 1000 CA and 800 CCA. It fires up nice and fast now...again.

Just waiting on the alternator to get back. I put it back together after putting bearings in it and cleaning up the brushes along with their mating surface. It wanted to charge at 15 - 15.2 volts. That's a touch high for my liking. I called PA Performance and they said if I had the original invoice, they'd still warranty it for me, which is amazing, because I bought it on 18 May 2010. They're really going to be surprised when they see (not only) the original invoice, but the box, bubble wrap, and other paperwork from 2010.

I'd have fixed it myself, but they didn't want to sell me a regulator separately AND they sent me a shipping label. I can wait a few days :D

Next for the old girl will be some rear brakes/wheel cylinders and an injection pump. Then she'll be more gooder than new.
 
Put some universal horns in today to replace the OG 1982 CJ horn that was in the Jeep.

Also rewired the ground for the Pyle Bluetooth amplifier. I had it grounded to the firewall (where it’s mounted) and now it’s grounded straight to the battery. I could hear any electrical device through the speakers. Turn signals, heater fan, lights. Etc.

I also think I’m going to put the stock diff cover back on. That drip is killing me.

8B6821D5-A421-46A5-8E3A-B68E18ABBE1A.jpeg
 
orange150 said:
Also rewired the ground for the Pyle Bluetooth amplifier. I had it grounded to the firewall (where it’s mounted) and now it’s grounded straight to the battery. I could hear any electrical device through the speakers. Turn signals, heater fan, lights. Etc.
Click to expand...
Taking the ground to the battery took care of 95% of the feedback. I can still hear the RPM range as a high pitch tone, but not nearly as loud as it used to be. I need to plug my AFR gauge back in to see if I get all the feedback from that like I was.
 
orange150 said:
Taking the ground to the battery took care of 95% of the feedback. I can still hear the RPM range as a high pitch tone, but not nearly as loud as it used to be. I need to plug my AFR gauge back in to see if I get all the feedback from that like I was.
Click to expand...

Does it have a Delco 10SI alternator? Has a through hole on the bottom and a threaded hole up top for the belt tensioner bolt? External, metal fan? Looks like the picture? If so, the capacitor in it is probably bad. They're there to filter noise.

Screenshot_20230127_012910_Samsung Internet.jpg



Take the back half off and you'll see it right in there on the case.

PXL_20201201_011629071.jpg



After learning way too much about alternators, thanks to an ADHD fueled hyperfocus, I'll probably never replace an alternator again. The parts are STUPID cheap and they're really easy to fix.

If you have a 10SI and want more juice, you can always bolt in a 94 amp 12SI (1985 S10 with a 2.5L) or even a 120 amp CS130D, like this one. It puts out about 60 amps at idle and is only 90 bucks in the "bargain bin" section on the PA Performance website. You can also make any of those a 1 wire, self exciting setup.

2019-11-25_13.23.19__54310.jpg


Thanks for coming to my T.E.D. talk 🤣 Hope some of that helps. If you need a hand looking up parts, just holler at me.
 
Speaking of alternators...

I gotta shout out to PA Performance. They definitely look out for their customers! I bought this alternator from them in May of 2010...yes...it's almost 13 years old. I had called them and asked if they'd sell me a new voltage regulator, but they said they didn't sell them individually. However, I could box it up and they'd email me a shipping label. He said it might cost me 30 or 40 bucks in parts, but...if I had the original invoice, they'd warranty it. Luckily, I had kept it for some reason. 2010 was before they had a nice, computerized sales system and I wasn't in their system. Hence the need for the invoice.

After I replaced the bearings and put it back together, I bolted it back in the truck with those new batteries I got just to check it. It was charging at 15.2 volts and that's a little much for my liking, so I sent it back. I sent it out last Thursday and it was sitting on my porch yesterday when I got home. That's pretty speedy! It didn't cost me a dime for shipping either way and when I looked at the packing slip, they replaced the voltage regulator and brushes/brush holder assembly...for FREE! They're good folks in my book.

I bolted it back in this morning. A solid 14.3 volts and no more having to rev it up to get the regulator to start working. Freaking sweeeet. I also found the part numbers for the regulator, brushes, bearings, rectifier, diodes, etc while I had it apart and took pictures. Denso and Delco alternators are pretty simple.

Nothing special, but here it is in all of its electrical glory. I noticed they also use a slight underdrive pulley; which is nice for keeping the amperage output up at idle and lower RPM.

20230126_140820.jpg



Next alternator project is the 12SI in my S10. It's got a very undersized charge, needs a new pulley, and probably bearings. If any electrical accessories are on when you crank the truck, it gives you the famous, GM v-belt screech. High beams and blower motor on high? Pfft...forget about it. That belt is gunna holler. There's some reason the alternator is hard to spin (bad bearings? Shitty wiring making it have a higher load on it?) and the pulley is highly polished from the belt slipping for so long. Doesn't matter how tight you get it or what belt you try.

I may nab this setup and get it over with and throw on another new belt.

www.paperformance.com

120A GM Alternator Kit (1798HBBIN)

American Muscle Late Model Restoration LMR PA Performance Alternator Starter Ford Jeep Dodge Ram Cummins F150
www.paperformance.com www.paperformance.com
 
Last edited:
Croatan_Kid said:
Does it have a Delco 10SI alternator? Has a through hole on the bottom and a threaded hole up top for the belt tensioner bolt? External, metal fan? Looks like the picture? If so, the capacitor in it is probably bad. They're there to filter noise.

View attachment 390624


Take the back half off and you'll see it right in there on the case.

View attachment 390625


After learning way too much about alternators, thanks to an ADHD fueled hyperfocus, I'll probably never replace an alternator again. The parts are STUPID cheap and they're really easy to fix.

If you have a 10SI and want more juice, you can always bolt in a 94 amp 12SI (1985 S10 with a 2.5L) or even a 120 amp CS130D, like this one. It puts out about 60 amps at idle and is only 90 bucks in the "bargain bin" section on the PA Performance website. You can also make any of those a 1 wire, self exciting setup.

View attachment 390626

Thanks for coming to my T.E.D. talk 🤣 Hope some of that helps. If you need a hand looking up parts, just holler at me.
Click to expand...
Thank you! I was about to start a thread on it.. it's bugging me now that I've ran a dedicated ground for the amp. I'll check on this either tonight or this weekend. I'm honestly not sure which advanced auto special I have on there.
 
Croatan_Kid said:
Does it have a Delco 10SI alternator? Has a through hole on the bottom and a threaded hole up top for the belt tensioner bolt? External, metal fan? Looks like the picture? If so, the capacitor in it is probably bad. They're there to filter noise.

View attachment 390624


Take the back half off and you'll see it right in there on the case.

View attachment 390625


After learning way too much about alternators, thanks to an ADHD fueled hyperfocus, I'll probably never replace an alternator again. The parts are STUPID cheap and they're really easy to fix.

If you have a 10SI and want more juice, you can always bolt in a 94 amp 12SI (1985 S10 with a 2.5L) or even a 120 amp CS130D, like this one. It puts out about 60 amps at idle and is only 90 bucks in the "bargain bin" section on the PA Performance website. You can also make any of those a 1 wire, self exciting setup.

View attachment 390626

Thanks for coming to my T.E.D. talk 🤣 Hope some of that helps. If you need a hand looking up parts, just holler at me.
Click to expand...
There's a place in Charlotte called Carolina Auto Electric that actually rebuilds that stuff and is great to deal with. I always send business to them first if I can, because businesses like that are a dying breed, and the product/service they provide is SOOOOO much better than the cheap chinese shit rebuild from Advanceautozoreillys.
 
orange150 said:
Thank you! I was about to start a thread on it.. it's bugging me now that I've ran a dedicated ground for the amp. I'll check on this either tonight or this weekend. I'm honestly not sure which advanced auto special I have on there.
Click to expand...

No problem. Whenever you post a picture of it, it'll be easy to tell what it is. I ordered the CS130D from PA Performance for my S10 this morning. It was too cheap to pass up and the 10/12SI Delco rear bearings are a needle style and I hate needle bearings. The new one has two normal roller bearings.

jeepinmatt said:
There's a place in Charlotte called Carolina Auto Electric that actually rebuilds that stuff and is great to deal with. I always send business to them first if I can, because businesses like that are a dying breed, and the product/service they provide is SOOOOO much better than the cheap chinese shit rebuild from Advanceautozoreillys.
Click to expand...

We used to have Neuse Starter and Generator in New Bern, but they closed up shop several years ago. They'd even rewind stators to up amperage. It's GOT to be cheaper to rebuild alternators and generators on super old or really massive equipment, big rigs, or stuff like that. I'm sure some of that stuff isn't replaceable as a full unit and probably has to be rebuilt or adapted to use different parts.

I actually wouldn't mind doing something like that. Just go full nerd on starters, alternators, generators...hell, radiators too. Craven Radiator shut down several years ago as well 🥲 Make brass/copper radiators great again!
 
Back
Top