What have you done to your rig today?

Croatan_Kid said:
Washed it, put on a coat of glaze, and then ceramic coating. My shoulders are wore TF out, but DAMN...it looks good to be over 20 years old with almot 344,000 miles on it! šŸ˜ I REALLY need to replace that bumper cap or find an aftermarket winch bumper that actually looks good...

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Have you tried tire shine on the bumper cap? It usually doesn't last long, but seems to darken things up better than armor all in my experience.
 
Or you can run a MAP gas torch over it and it will ā€œreviveā€ the plastic pretty well. Think of the motion with the torch like spraying it with a rattle can. Sweeping motions and you will see it ā€œmeltā€ back to a darker color. I have refurbed a lot of plastic on 4 wheeler and such doing it. Not permanent but it works.
 
Croatan_Kid said:
Washed it, put on a coat of glaze, and then ceramic coating. My shoulders are wore TF out, but DAMN...it looks good to be over 20 years old with almot 344,000 miles on it! šŸ˜ I REALLY need to replace that bumper cap or find an aftermarket winch bumper that actually looks good...

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Is the tag referring to the guy that parked in the handicapped spot?
 
jeepinmatt said:
Have you tried tire shine on the bumper cap? It usually doesn't last long, but seems to darken things up better than armor all in my experience.
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Silverado_Express said:
Is the tag referring to the guy that parked in the handicapped spot?
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I work second shift and nobody is handicapped, so we're allowed to park in them. :flipoff2: There's 12 of us and about 30 spots.

The tag is actually from Albert Styron's Store. A.S.S.

That's the first thing everyone says. Not "dang, looks good!" or "good job!". Just...you're an asshole (basically) šŸ™„


ncpartsguy said:
Flood Penetrol on the faded bumper cap - available at Lowe's. Should last 2+ years.
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It should last a while on the old, ragged, faded paint on my '85 S10, but it doesn't seem to. I need to rub it down again. At least I have some, so I may try it. I do have a rattle can of Krylon Fusion plastic paint. If I do Penetrol, paint will probably never stick.

CasterTroy said:
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I've tried every one of those products I can find. They all last about a week.
 
Silverado_Express said:
Truck does look good, I always liked the HD trucks in that body style.

At least you made sure you parked over the line as well as in the handicapped spot šŸ˜‚
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The federal government makes all of their parking spots just wide enough for the vehicle. They forgot you have to open the doors too. I go for the handi-van spots so I can give all three of us some room and my truck doesn't get door dinged.
 
Some, if not most of you remember me having Cam/Lifter problems, on my New-Rebuilt 360. So, finally getting back to Now, I brought it home, Friday. I had taken it to a shop, I "thought" was good, to fix the rear seal leak. Turned out the bearings were eaten out from the powered metal of the first cam failure. I "Thought", I had it Flushed out, when I put the Second cam/lifter set in, but No. Shop pulled the engine & I took it back to the machine shop, for a Do-Over. Three weeks later I get the engine back, & the Shop, reinstalled it, & got it running, & did the cam break in. I picked it up, after a 1 block test drive, knowing there would be "little" things, to check over on it. I saw right away, they had my gas line run wrong & was against the exhaust pipe flange. Guess they figured my insulated cover would protect it. Haha.
 

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So here it is, against the pipe, & Moved to where "I" had it, stuffed between the motor mount & block.
 

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As I went to move it, I realized I had to take it loose, to reroute it. Damn.
But, Damn good thing I was there, to find my Return line, Stuck between the firewall & the back of the exhaust manifold! Plastic loom, already melted. The line is Suppose to, run down the bellhousing & tunnel, & back over to the frame, near the clutch bell crank. So, I, "Should" be able to push it over & back in place. NO. It's crushed in there! I loosened the motor mounts, & jacked up the driver side, trying to get clearance. I beat on it with a Longgg 3/8 socket drive extension, using a heavy hammer. I worked up & down about 10 inches, till I got it freed & corrected it. I'm Like, "How could they Not see this"?
 

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Ok, moving on, I find my starter cable, laying on the frame & motor mount support. Easy mistake, & easy fix. Loosen the bolt & turn the lug, Up. Just like the alternator cable, laying on the oil filter. Picture is not that defined, but the rear wire loom, is the oil sending gage wire, & the other is the alt. wire. I opened a wire loom clamp, switched & adjusted the looms. Who wants to fight getting the oil filter wrench on, with the damn alt wire laying in the way?
 

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Ok, got all that; installed the bellhousing inspection plate, that they did Not do, & then re-adjusted the clutch. That should take care of the bottom side. I'd already rerouted my spark plug wires, as the guy told me he'd leave that to me, & a couple other things. I didn't expect them to reattach my hand throttle, as it's funky, but they actually did. Or tried. It didn't work. So I got into that, & after 30-40 some minutes, Realized, they had even taken the throttle bracket apart [???], and had one section, out of place. After I corrected that, it hooked up easy. Took the correct picture, though you can't decipher much there.
 

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Hot Dang, I think I'm all but done. Lets put the Hood on. Hell it's been off for Months!
Bolted the hood on, went to raise it ************ You Kidding Me?
For anyone that don't know, on CJs, you have a Rod, attached to the hood, & it sits in this Bracket, to prop the hood open.
They have the bracket, Upside down. No way to stick the rod in it. So I loosen the nut & flip the bracket over.
 

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Hey, Lets take a drive! Crank it up, back out of the garage, step out for a minute [O, God, Glad I Did!] , And a Big puddle, pouring out underneath. Holly Mother of CJ SSSSSSSSS. My Fuel Return line, must not have survived the Beating, I gave it. It's actually busted where it was melting against the manifold. There is a junction down below it. Yea; Half way down the bellhousing tunnel. A damn near Impossible place to get to. I'll have to study on this. I Swear, I'm F**king Jinxed, on my Jeep. Been this way ever since I pulled the 304 out. I pissed it off.
 
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I had another day off, so I got to that Return line. I had just enough room, to get 1 hand & half my arm, up to the connection. Rubber hose steel line. Line slid off easy, & I found I had enough New rubber hose, to replace the old busted one. It too, slid on easy. I went with new style hose clamps, new plastic loom, covered with heat shield tubing. Drove 10 miles today, & everything seems good! :clap:
 
It took me five freaking hours to replace my leaking RTV gasketed rear diff cover with a lube locker yesterday.

Removed the cover, cleaned the mating surface on the Barnes diff cover, wiped the center section out and cleaned that mating surface, lined the gasket up, threw the diff cover up there, started the easy bolts (bottom 7), got the two outer top bolts in, and the center top would not go in. I could get a few threads started then it would bind up like it was cross threaded. Dammit.
Took the cover back off, tried the bolt, couldn't get it started. Brought out the tap, cleaned it up, threw the diff cover back up there, started the easy bolts (bottom 7), got one outer top bolt in, now the center and the right top would not go in. WTF!?!
Took the cover back off, tried the bolt, couldn't get it started. Brought out the tap, cleaned all the threads up, ran the bolts through a die, threw the diff cover back up there, started the easy bolts (bottom 7), got one outer top bolt in, now the center and the right top would not go in. Ran the tap in the holes with the diff cover up there, had to wiggle the two bolts to get them started right and they finally went in. Fuuuuuuu that was annoying.

I should have jacked the Jeep up so I could access those top bolts easier, but I was trying to do it "quickly" in the middle of the day. With the 20 gallon tank in the top bolts are hard to get to, compounded by the larger Barnes diff cover. There's about 1" of clearance between the diff and the gas tank.
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On the bright side the diff doesn't leak anymore. Now to get the D300 to stop leaking....
 
orange150 said:
It took me five freaking hours to replace my leaking RTV gasketed rear diff cover with a lube locker yesterday.

Removed the cover, cleaned the mating surface on the Barnes diff cover, wiped the center section out and cleaned that mating surface, lined the gasket up, threw the diff cover up there, started the easy bolts (bottom 7), got the two outer top bolts in, and the center top would not go in. I could get a few threads started then it would bind up like it was cross threaded. Dammit.
Took the cover back off, tried the bolt, couldn't get it started. Brought out the tap, cleaned it up, threw the diff cover back up there, started the easy bolts (bottom 7), got one outer top bolt in, now the center and the right top would not go in. WTF!?!
Took the cover back off, tried the bolt, couldn't get it started. Brought out the tap, cleaned all the threads up, ran the bolts through a die, threw the diff cover back up there, started the easy bolts (bottom 7), got one outer top bolt in, now the center and the right top would not go in. Ran the tap in the holes with the diff cover up there, had to wiggle the two bolts to get them started right and they finally went in. Fuuuuuuu that was annoying.

I should have jacked the Jeep up so I could access those top bolts easier, but I was trying to do it "quickly" in the middle of the day. With the 20 gallon tank in the top bolts are hard to get to, compounded by the larger Barnes diff cover. There's about 1" of clearance between the diff and the gas tank.
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On the bright side the diff doesn't leak anymore. Now to get the D300 to stop leaking....
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I hate to laugh, but that's the kind of shit that would happen to me
 
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