01 Mounty on Tons!

77GreenMachine said:
Dang.:( I guess Savage did stories so good mine are garbage now :laughing:


You can get a single bedroom cabin for $150/night. They even have one that is massive and has 2 bedrooms, one is a master bed and the other is a massive living room and dining area with a queen bed in the corner.

Larger 3 bedroom cabins are $350/N

Camping with power/water is $35

$40 to ride for the weekend. I think.
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Cool thanks. I'm gonna start putting money away for a weekend trip then.
Can the whole place be fully engaged from a Friday to Sunday weekend or better to add an extra day? Sorry for all the questions, thank you for the answers:)
 
marty79 said:
Cool thanks. I'm gonna start putting money away for a weekend trip then.
Can the whole place be fully engaged from a Friday to Sunday weekend or better to add an extra day? Sorry for all the questions, thank you for the answers:)
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You could see it all in a day really, but there’s many things worth doing twice, and some you can take different lines on and stuff
 
77GreenMachine said:
would be a 4 hour drive for you but would probably do you
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Was looking up info and stuff but if were talking about the same place its 6.5hrs from me..daiuuum lol wow that's a drive
 
Picture of off road park from me..dang I miss The Flats lol
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Steering ram..check!
Flat bottom skid..check!
Trans skid..check!
Radiator skid..check!
Shifter on front case..check!
Wire the fuel pump..check!
Hook up battery..check!
Start it and make sure it sounds straight up bad ass...freaking check! Hooooweeeiii this thing sounds awesome!!
Brakes is all I lack and cut a hole in my wall to get it out lol.
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Ok I'm never good at tying my hydro lines properly...anyone can point out where i should tie the lines according to how the suspension travels..thank you.(stupid, I know)
 
Wifey says "that sounds like a serious hot rod not some ford mountaineer" lmao.
Oh man, wheeling this rig I will be very proud of the 6months crazy hours and to hear a bad ass v8 underneath me!
 
Looking
marty79 said:
Ok I'm never good at tying my hydro lines properly...anyone can point out where i should tie the lines according to how the suspension travels..thank you.(stupid, I know)
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looking good John. Far as hydro lines. I ran mine down the upper link and lines only have to piviot at the frame mount instead of having to drop with axle.
 
I’m digging the bumper, looks great.
I would also recommend running the lines down the upper links.

Question: I haven’t followed the entire thread so it may have been mentioned. But do you have your tabs on the steering sized right for the pins in the steering? While those rams do work well enough, they tend to have slop with the pins, it doesn’t take much to have quite the delay and dead slot in the steering.
 
77GreenMachine said:
Question: I haven’t followed the entire thread so it may have been mentioned. But do you have your tabs on the steering sized right for the pins in the steering? While those rams do work well enough, they tend to have slop with the pins, it doesn’t take much to have quite the delay and dead slot in the steering.
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if your referring to the 1" size pins that go through the tabs, yes those are super tight on the tabs...(better be for the money I paid for them brackets lol). i use small hose clamps though to hold the pins from being able to slide up and down in the tab if that's what your talking about.

so run the lines down the upper link but do I need to have the axle fully drooped so I know how much to extend them? I know I'm overthinking this but I've always had issues in the past with them rubbing on stuff, then I tie them up neatly and then they come off when flexing out etc.. then they rub and get leaks. The simple stuff tends to get me the most haha
 
oh yeah still waiting on darn limiting straps..company just now notified me that they only working part time hours...wth,
On the plus side, I found some 200lb rear lower springs that I traded with a buddy who needed my 300lb so at least I don't have to deal with that hassle of exchanging and stuff, whew
 
No need to worry about droop. They just need to be long enough to run back towards the frame mount for the upper link, then down that link to the ram. Then the lines aren’t really dropping, they’re pivoting at the link mount.
 
marty79 said:
oh yeah still waiting on darn limiting straps..company just now notified me that they only working part time hours...wth,
On the plus side, I found some 200lb rear lower springs that I traded with a buddy who needed my 300lb so at least I don't have to deal with that hassle of exchanging and stuff, whew
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What length do you need? I found my stash I thought I had sold.
 
Jody Treadway said:
What length do you need? I found my stash I thought I had sold.
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I ordered 20" eye to eye but longer could work too. But I don't think I can cancel the order since they're currently "in production" according to latest email
 
so I totally forgot (been 6months since I went through the axles) that my rear is 3:73 and front is 3:54 dammit...for just wheeling purposes, will this work or do I need to fix it?
 
I'm betting it'll drive.




For a short while until it finds the fuse. The only places I've seen people run different gear ratios front/rear was mud racing. And that was the high horsepower rigs (1000+) that ran smaller tires in the front anyway. They'd spin the front faster so the nose would float better and have a better chance of staying straight. That is, if the front stayed in contact with the mud long enough. :laughing:

Anything harder than that (even dirt IMHO) I think would be risking the transfer case/drive shafts/u-joints. Take lots of spares and run as much in 2wd as you can if you dare to wheel with non-matched gears.
 
Scooter402 said:
I'm betting it'll drive.




For a short while until it finds the fuse. The only places I've seen people run different gear ratios front/rear was mud racing. And that was the high horsepower rigs (1000+) that ran smaller tires in the front anyway. They'd spin the front faster so the nose would float better and have a better chance of staying straight. That is, if the front stayed in contact with the mud long enough. :laughing:

Anything harder than that (even dirt IMHO) I think would be risking the transfer case/drive shafts/u-joints. Take lots of spares and run as much in 2wd as you can if you dare to wheel with non-matched gears.
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Was afraid that would be the answer dang it..well ain't going through all that work just for factory gear..guess I'm gonna save up for 5.13s ay ya yay
 
marty79 said:
so I totally forgot (been 6months since I went through the axles) that my rear is 3:73 and front is 3:54 dammit...for just wheeling purposes, will this work or do I need to fix it?
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Would you like walking around on a leg that is noticeably shorter than the other?
 
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