01 Mounty on Tons!

What a stance...buuut I got some body clearance issues at full lock and full bump..dang its impossible to have full body rig built for good articulation and not be sitting sky high and not have to trim a bunch
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We about to see how good that turn radius is...to heck with cutting hole in the wall, bout to 12point turn my happy ass out this room LMAO

Jody Treadway said:
You spelled dumb ass wrong as well
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You would've not liked being my ESL teacher or my reading arithmetic teacher lol
 
Bought to be a 1wheel drive fool trying to come out this room hahaha. I'm a laugh so hard when I get myself pinched in between the walls lmbo
 
Well there went my clockspring now I cant turn...intermission lol
 
marty79 said:
Ford uses a lot of them..called big ford cap 1330. No inner clips, they get held in place by tightening up hard. I'm gonna tack weld in 2 little tabs call it good
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I know WHAT a 1330F is...I was asking what in your setup is a 1330F. The yoke on that axle should be 1350.

They aren't, in fact, held in by "tightening up hard". Nothing is. If you distort a u joint cap, it'll bind up, wear super fast, and fail.

This is a 1330F joint/yoke on the 78/79 60 under my other Silverado. See the tabs?

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Got trimming to do, upper front springs are too soft..they're compressed all the way pretty much at ride height..my doubler shifter needs adjustment and other nick nack tuning
 
Croatan_Kid said:
I know WHAT a 1330F is...I was asking what in your setup is a 1330F. The yoke on that axle should be 1350.

They aren't, in fact, held in by "tightening up hard". Nothing is. If you distort a u joint cap, it'll bind up, wear super fast, and fail.

This is a 1330F joint/yoke on the 78/79 60 under my other Silverado. See the tabs?

View attachment 354750
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It's my rear case front ouput yoke
 
It doesn't have tabs because it was likely used in conjunction with a bolt on double cardan joint, if I was to guess. What is the rear case?

You gotta be more specific. This whole time I thought you were talking about the pinion yoke and I know good and well that's not a 1330F 🙄
 
braxton357 said:
the 1310 caps on a truck with 40s is asking for trouble.
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I always though so too, but I wound up breaking a left rear 14 bolt shaft and Detroit in my CUCV. I figured the 1310 joint at the front pinion would have broken first...but to be fair, I WAS dragging a sled at a truck pull :D
 
I did some more digging. GM used 4401s in mid 90s to early 2000s 2500 and 3500 trucks. They DO use a u joint with inner retention snap rings. They're a 3R series joint, not a 1330F. 5-795X is the part number.

Every 1330F yoke I can find has outer retention tabs.

Destroying a transfer case and driveshaft for something as simple as the wrong u joint isn't something I'd want to do on a wheeling trip...or...ever, really.
 
Croatan_Kid said:
They DO use a u joint with inner retention snap rings. They're a 3R series joint, not a 1330F. 5-795X is the part number.
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So I have the wrong joint? But it fits like a glove in the spot. I tacked in full outer caps over the ujoint caps so they for sure ain't going anywhere...idk should hold up, it's on the intermediate driveshaft which stays straight
 
so anyone wanna help me figure out my front springs..
current springs are 18" 300lb 2.5 lower, 14" 175lb 2.5 upper
front currently has 1.5" preload and I'm sitting at my desired perfect ride height with 6" uptravel, 10" down
Problem: Upper springs are pretty much completely collapsed as it sits. (maybe 1/8" space in between the coils)
The skids and bumper and winch added A LOT more weight than expected but it is what it is...
Any advise thank you very much.
 
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marty79 said:
So I have the wrong joint? But it fits like a glove in the spot. I tacked in full outer caps over the ujoint caps so they for sure ain't going anywhere...idk should hold up, it's on the intermediate driveshaft which stays straight
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Yes. You have the wrong joint. The caps are the same diameter between a 1330F and a 3R, but you're lacking the retention feature. The weld will likely crack at some point and then it'll spit out a u joint cap. Or it may already be toast from the welding. Who knows?

In for pics of carnage! :D
 
Croatan_Kid said:
The weld will likely crack at some point and then it'll spit out a u joint cap. Or it may already be toast from the welding.
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i actually welded a steel plate cap over the ends since the joint caps sit flush with the outside of the yoke so they're burned in good (joint was removed). they ain't going anywhere, not my first rodeo doing that either.
I've had those tabs break on my other Jeep rigs and tached on steel caps like this and never had an issue...I'm a roll with it
 
There are no tabs to break...again...they used inner snap rings.

Sounds like it'll be fine though. Carry on! :driver:
 
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