05 TJ LS swap

F Body is 97+ Firebirds and Camaros. A lot of the Corvette ones hug the blocks pretty close as well.

Cheap headers are just what the name implies.
 
Croatan_Kid said:
F Body is 97+ Firebirds and Camaros.
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ok, I'm new to all this..so 97 LT1 headers are the same as LS? I've read that but thought I was misreading it haha
 
More specifically, 98-02 4th Gens. Nothing LT1.

Anything that used an LS based motor. Corvettes started in 97 with the C5. Trucks/SUVs started in the late half of 99.
 
How's the driver side look? Did the steering shaft actually clear the PS pump?
 
XJsavage said:
How's the driver side look? Did the steering shaft actually clear the PS pump?
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I'll know by the end of today, looks fine, gonna be close as heck like other I've seen lol
 
XJsavage said:
How's the driver side look? Did the steering shaft actually clear the PS pump?
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Clears like butter lol. This is factory bracket/pillow block but I'm gonna modify it to scoot its butt over hehe. I modified factory drivers side manifold cause its welded on instead of free spinning like passenger side but manifolds clear good. Have to beat in the pinch seam on tub just a little on passenger side.
Finally getting some time to make progress..had to turn away work lol
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I did shift motor to passenger side about an inch too so that helped
 
Oh yeii what fun got a good start on it, good for me I know jeeps but still very time consuming
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So I picked up a 241c and the speed sensor for LS doesn't fit in tail housing..are there different 241 that I should look for? Or do I need a pigtail for that speed sensor in the 241 and tap into it for the LS computer.
2nd question: I've read you can use the front half of a 231c/233 chevy with back half of the jeep 231j and have the 27spline input, gain wide chain and allows to keep stock driveshaft? But then speed sensor still an issue!?
 
Just use the 241. Get a pigtail and speed sensor to fit the 241 and splice it in to the harness. It'll work. That's what I did with my 99 Silverado when I swapped from a 261 to a 241. Been that way since 2012.

RockAuto is your friend!
 
Croatan_Kid said:
Get a pigtail and speed sensor to fit the 241
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thanks. it has the speed sensor just no pigtail. I guess I'll do that then head to junk yard anyways to get shifter and other stuff.
This TJ was a manual so I'm hoping to get a auto shifter from a TJ and make that work so it would look factory
 
So 05/06 TJ/LJ are compatible fuel pumps to deliver enough fuel pressure for an LS motor... +1
Still have to drop tank just to add a return line?!? -1 wth, (is there really no way around this?)
 
Corvette fuel filters have a return regulator in them. Google it. You can find the part number and whether or not the stock TJ fuel pump will work. They need roughly 58 psi to work properly. It depends on the year of the motor. It being an 02, it's likely a return style and, if so, you'll have to have the tuning changed for a returnless style. It's just the fuel injector tables that need to be changed.

Personally, I prefer a return style fuel system, but whatever will work easier will be fine.
 
Croatan_Kid said:
Corvette fuel filters have a return regulator in them. Google it. You can find the part number and whether or not the stock TJ fuel pump will work. They need roughly 58 psi to work properly. It depends on the year of the motor. It being an 02, it's likely a return style and, if so, you'll have to have the tuning changed for a returnless style. It's just the fuel injector tables that need to be changed.

Personally, I prefer a return style fuel system, but whatever will work easier will be fine.
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can't use the corvette filter..i looked into that..won't work/not needed since the TJ has a built in regular that already regulates it at 62psi so stock jeep fuel pump in 05/06 work perfectly. It just seems that I still have to run a fuel return all the way back and drop the tank...i hate the idea of dropping the tank just for that so was wondering if anyone has done anything different. all this little retarted crap is annoying me haha. the next swap is def gonna be like stupid fast compared to this slow moving extravaganza
 
probably a dumb question but since the fuel coming to the rail is "regulated already" at the proper pressure, and on say a stock jeep fuel rail it goes there at that psi and it holds without a return line....why couldn't you cap off the return on the LS fuel rail and be done? isn't that the same principle as the "returnless" fuel rail that keeps a constant pressure...which a return system still keeps that same pressure but releases the extra fuel because the regulator is on the rail. Since on a returnless system the fuel coming to the rail is regulated already, wouldn't capping off the fuel return provide the same result?
just thinking out loud here, if it's stupid than slap me silly lol
 
marty79 said:
probably a dumb question but since the fuel coming to the rail is "regulated already" at the proper pressure, and on say a stock jeep fuel rail it goes there at that psi and it holds without a return line....why couldn't you cap off the return on the LS fuel rail and be done? isn't that the same principle as the "returnless" fuel rail that keeps a constant pressure...which a return system still keeps that same pressure but releases the extra fuel because the regulator is on the rail. Since on a returnless system the fuel coming to the rail is regulated already, wouldn't capping off the fuel return provide the same result?
just thinking out loud here, if it's stupid than slap me silly lol
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You can swap your fuel rails to a returnless style, or I've read about "dead heading" the return style rails and not having a return. However you do the returnless system, you should be fine with the 05/06 pump producing the correct pressure.

You mentioned above about using the np231j to keep the stock driveshaft? Are you talking front or rear? It's unlikely your tcase is going to end up at the same spot as stock, but even if it does you should consider doing a rear SYE while you're this far in.

I used the stock auto shifter with a crank arm and bracket from Novak. It works, but it is difficult to manually shift 1/2/3.
 
marty79 said:
probably a dumb question but since the fuel coming to the rail is "regulated already" at the proper pressure, and on say a stock jeep fuel rail it goes there at that psi and it holds without a return line....why couldn't you cap off the return on the LS fuel rail and be done? isn't that the same principle as the "returnless" fuel rail that keeps a constant pressure...which a return system still keeps that same pressure but releases the extra fuel because the regulator is on the rail. Since on a returnless system the fuel coming to the rail is regulated already, wouldn't capping off the fuel return provide the same result?
just thinking out loud here, if it's stupid than slap me silly lol
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so apparently corvette guys have done this but some say it's ok some say no...some have used -6 fitting caps others have used AN fitting caps with no problems???
 
LBarr2002 said:
I've read about "dead heading" the return style rails and not having a return
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that's what I just was reading about on the hot rodder forums lol, several different threads people saying they've had no problems...but then there's the "heck no don't" people as expected LOL sooooo I guess I might be that "why not go for it" guy unless there's a real bad reason not to. I don't see the difference in blocking it off since it's practically same as single rail that is pre-regulated from the pump pressure.

LBarr2002 said:
You mentioned above about using the np231j to keep the stock driveshaft? Are you talking front or rear? It's unlikely your tcase is going to end up at the same spot as stock, but even if it does you should consider doing a rear SYE while you're this far in.
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I'm referring to the rear, I know the front I'm redoing and the rear, but trying to keep this speed sensor/speedometer and shifting thing simple as possible and not get all complicated...
I saw your LS swap btw on another forum, that was a very thorough build you posted!!
 
The fuel injectors are scaled differently. You'd have to change the injector tables in the tuning to run a returnless rail. It wont run right if you don't.

I'm pretty sure I have some returnless rails out in the shop if you need one, but I won't be home until the 23rd or so.
 
Croatan_Kid said:
The fuel injectors are scaled differently. You'd have to change the injector tables in the tuning to run a returnless rail. It wont run right if you don't.

I'm pretty sure I have some returnless rails out in the shop if you need one, but I won't be home until the 23rd or so.
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That's cool the tuning guy said to bring it back once running to fine tune it anyways so that wont be an issue. Guess I'm blocking the return rail. If Corvette guys and higher hp guys are doing it, I feel pretty good
 
Blocking it will still leave the regulator in the rail and be one more place for it to leak. Honestly, if it's set up for a return, it'd be easiest to just run it like that and be done with it.
 
^What he said. Doing it right only takes a few minutes longer. And will cause you (and the owner) many less headaches in the long run.
 
10-4. drop tank it is
 
Jeep harness done, whew that was annoying lol
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Its ALIVE!! Whoooweiiii!! I had 1 wire wrong at first crank lol. The ignition feed when cranking was not hot while cranking for the LS ECU turn on haha, once I figured that out (10min) fired right up. Yiiihaw! Gotta clean up wiring, add coolant, tidy things up but its it's running.
 
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