05 TJ LS swap

marty79 said:
have the factory jeep temp sensor in pass rear of head, and in the front drivers side head is the factory LS temp sensor with a T fitting for the theromstat sensor for the fan.
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The temp sensor needs to be in flow of coolant. They'll read low if you put them in a tee. A pocket of cooler water collects around the sensor.
 
shawn said:
The temp sensor needs to be in flow of coolant. They'll read low if you put them in a tee. A pocket of cooler water collects around the sensor.
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would it be off that much though? I'll know later today when I crank it, let it get up to temp and start checking temps everywhere...
 
marty79 said:
would it be off that much though? I'll know later today when I crank it, let it get up to temp and start checking temps everywhere...
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Depends on how much the flow is affected. They'll definitely read low and may even sit in a permanent air pocket.
 
shawn said:
even sit in a permanent air pocket.
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hmm didn't think of that...I'll have to take a picture of that too and post it see what yall think. thanks for pointing that out
 
well it's running and driving...but soon as I hit 40ish rear driveline vibrates like crazy...
driveshaft shop called me today, said "that's not your problem buddy, you got other issues" ...I've gotten pretty darn good at building driveshafts straight and he said I was only off just under 1thousandth of an inch which is acceptable but he put that little tiny weight on anyways. So now gotta play around with pinion angles and this thing will be done.
T-case side is 1350 stock np241 yoke, rear diff side is stock jeep 1310 yoke..both new u-joints and t-case points about straight out, rear diff pinion points up maybe few degrees...I'm guessing my issue is at the pinion pointing up a little?
I've never had issues with vibes like this from pinion being a little up or "off" (at least not on XJs) and I've even had XJ driveshafts point right at the T-case with single joints on both sides and only had very slight vibes at like highway speed but very tolerable....this is like totally NOT tolerable lol.
Any ideas fellas...thanks a bunch
 
Jody Treadway said:
What:
Are the angles of the t case and pinion?
Type of shaft? CV or single joint?
Driveshaft angle?
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single joint shaft on each end...Tcase is 1350 stock chevy yoke, rear end stock 1310
driveshaft angle currently is maybe 2* up, tcase angle pretty much 0 (points straight out the rear)
It's a pretty short shaft but it ended up being 1.25 longer than stock so it's not any shorter lol.
I'm pretty positive it's in the angle of pinion...I'm ordering adjustable lower arms for it as we speak so I can adjust it
 
marty79 said:
single joint shaft on each end...Tcase is 1350 stock chevy yoke, rear end stock 1310
driveshaft angle currently is maybe 2* up, tcase angle pretty much 0 (points straight out the rear)
It's a pretty short shaft but it ended up being 1.25 longer than stock so it's not any shorter lol.
I'm pretty positive it's in the angle of pinion...I'm ordering adjustable lower arms for it as we speak so I can adjust it
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So you don't really know?
 
Jody Treadway said:
So you don't really know?
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I know enough with the eye to know my angles but no, not exact on a angle finder. Geometry is my thing so I know my angles pretty well.
Suppose my biggest factor that is "new to me" is working with the short driveshaft...XJs have never given me issues, ever, on 3" to 8" lift I point pinion up 3*-8* depending on lift and has always driven plenty well (vibes I would get would be nothing more than what you get from mud terrain feel)
 
Jody Treadway said:
So you don't really know?
Click to expand...
marty79 said:
I know enough with the eye to know my angles but no, not exact on a angle finder. Geometry is my thing so I know my angles pretty well.
Suppose my biggest factor that is "new to me" is working with the short driveshaft...XJs have never given me issues, ever, on 3" to 8" lift I point pinion up 3*-8* depending on lift and has always driven plenty well (vibes I would get would be nothing more than what you get from mud terrain feel)
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I'm not trying to act like a know it all here, just stating I've done this enough to know angles and such but this really short driveline is what's throwing me off I believe. But I'm all ears since I am new to wranglers and pinion angle deficiencies
 
This is a pretty good chart to review. It's imperative to get the pinion angle dialed in with a single joint shaft.
You'll want to use an angle finder to verify everything before making the decision.

Driveshaft Angle | Measuring Drive Shaft Angles, Problems - Drivelines NW

Place a spirit level protractor on the driveshaft about halfway between the transmission and the Differential. Read and record the angle shown on the protractor scale and note whether the driveshaft points.....
www.drivelinesnw.com www.drivelinesnw.com
 
There are angle finder apps you can download on your phone. I use mine all the time for caster, camber, and pinion angles.

The one I use is called "Leveler" and it has 5 different modes. Works for everything you could imagine.

If anything, you'd want the pinion two degrees down. It's going to rotate upward when torque hits it. You could also lower the transmission/transfer case down a little to compensate instead of spending money on adjustable control arms. Single joint setups should be equal, but opposite angles.
 
Harbor freight sells a magnetic angle gauge for a few bucks. I have used mine a good bit.
 
Apple has a measure app in it. It will do angles. I learned this from my son after downloading one....
 
Ordered parts to build new adjustable lowers front and rear will mess with this then. I'm about to work on my rig till they show up hehe
 
marty79 said:
Ordered parts to build new adjustable lowers front and rear will mess with this then. I'm about to work on my rig till they show up hehe
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Adjusting the uppers is better for setting the pinion angle. The lowers mostly locate the axle front/rear, uppers rotate the housing.
 
shawn said:
Adjusting the uppers is better for setting the pinion angle. The lowers mostly locate the axle front/rear, uppers rotate the housing.
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His lower bushings are pretty bad so was doing those because of that. If uppers need, I'll do those too if I cant get enough adjustment
 
skyhighZJ said:
The pros use their calibrated Mark-1 eyeball.
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I'll have you know some people are just that darn good at what they do. I can build a square building eye balling walls plumb than your average joe with a tape measure! I can tell you a roof pitch by just looking at it...the angles of the eaves...angles of rafters....i used to be dam good at that back in my day building log homes and still just as good at knowing my angles so just cause the majority need some fancy device to figure out an angle of a certain thing doesn't mean everyone does!!! just sayin homie
 
marty79 said:
I'll have you know some people are just that darn good at what they do. I can build a square building eye balling walls plumb than your average joe with a tape measure! I can tell you a roof pitch by just looking at it...the angles of the eaves...angles of rafters....i used to be dam good at that back in my day building log homes and still just as good at knowing my angles so just cause the majority need some fancy device to figure out an angle of a certain thing doesn't mean everyone does!!! just sayin homie
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Oh for sure…experience and skill can develop a great eye.

And the best eye, anywhere, is almost as good as the cheapest tool.

pride, fall, et al
 
Ron said:
And the best eye, anywhere, is almost as good as the cheapest tool.
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haha well you ain't been around enough really good home builders then. next
 
Bebop said:
Building a house and building a car are 2 totally different things.
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Well obviously, just making an example though. It's all good, I've gotten by for 15yrs now without an angle thingy and not needed one. Suppose there's a first time for everything haha. I'll be buying one tomorrow when I go get my hydraulic hoses since this little short crap be a little different to "eye ball" lmao (true though)
 
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