05 TJ LS swap

Almost done...shifters done...yep I used 99-05 WJ auto shifter with the 4wd also for this since they're dime a dozen, cheap and use smooth operating cables vs linkages. all wiring complete, center console almost complete....
thought I was gonna test drive today but stupid fuel pump issue all of a sudden....arrghhh
 
Little teaser on the WJ shifter assembly and the bracket on tcase. I still need to remove factory 4wd shifter, clean things up, paint and install center console but I dig it and so does the customer.
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Fuel issue fixed..oh snap. This jeep with new factory jeep muffler and universal catalytic converter sounds awesome at idle and really nice tone when revving up. First time wiring thermostatic fan control and it works yeii (I know I'm silly)
 
Can someone please tell me how to magically fill this LS with coolant...I'm so mad right now. 1st time did it regular way..nope.
2nd time filled it through top heater hose...nope
3rd time filled it through top radiator hose still nope..WTH dam this thing...:kaioken:. I'm using the burp funnel but does no good....I just want to drive it arrrgh
 
marty79 said:
Can someone please tell me how to magically fill this LS with coolant...I'm so mad right now. 1st time did it regular way..nope.
2nd time filled it through top heater hose...nope
3rd time filled it through top radiator hose still nope..WTH dam this thing...:kaioken:. I'm using the burp funnel but does no good....I just want to drive it arrrgh
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Park it with the front end up high. Let it come up to temp, heat on. Assuming you have the heater core hooked up? If not you have to loop it back to it self, you can’t just block it off.
 
77GreenMachine said:
Park it with the front end up high. Let it come up to temp, heat on. Assuming you have the heater core hooked up? If not you have to loop it back to it self, you can’t just block it off.
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It's all hooked up. Thing is it doesn't get past 143 then it starts gurgling out like crazy. I'll try jacking up front really high see if that helps..haven't touched it since this post,, I had some temper issues going on lol
 
Perhaps the thermostat isn’t opening. If that motor sat for a bit it could be bad
 
77GreenMachine said:
Perhaps the thermostat isn’t opening. If that motor sat for a bit it could be bad
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It's all new...I think its cause fan doesn't cut on till 185 which I thought was wrong from the getgo... will know here in a bit. I got fan hot wired now
 
It shouldn’t gurgle just cause of the 185* fan.
It’s probably just working all the air out. Just let it run enough to stop doing that but keep an eye on the temp.
 
77GreenMachine said:
It shouldn’t gurgle just cause of the 185* fan.
It’s probably just working all the air out. Just let it run enough to stop doing that but keep an eye on the temp.
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Well its holding for 20min now with cap on but temp is weird...engine bay is hot like normal but temp gauge reads 145...my code reader live data on jeep dlc reads same 145...weirdness.
I know this motor is much hotter than 145. I put jeep factory temp sensor in rear passenger head...dont see why it's not reading properly. I dont think I'm driving it without knowing accurate temps..still at it dang it
 
Post an underhood picture where I can see the radiator and hoses and all that jazz. If it's reading 145 then either the sensor is bad or there's a big ass air pocket in the cooling system. Are the steam ports hooked up and routed properly? If not...that's probably your issue. FWIW, the factory temp sensor location is the forward coolant port on the driver's side cylinder head.

BTW, with a stock 195* thermostat, they'll run at like 196*-198*. A 185* kick on doesn't seem out of the realm of normality.
 
Croatan_Kid said:
Post an underhood picture where I can see the radiator and hoses and all that jazz. If it's reading 145 then either the sensor is bad or there's a big ass air pocket in the cooling system.

Btw, with a stock thermostat, they'll run at like 196-198. A 185 kick on doesn't seem out of the realm of normality.
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I went and bought a digital thermometer thingy (lol) so I can verify temps. It held idle for 25min, with some half throttle here and there but temp never "read" above 145, stayed mostly at 138 but I'm pretty sure that's wrong.
 
Pictures...I need some pictures. Every coolant hose under the hood, please.

How much coolant did you get in it?
 
Croatan_Kid said:
Pictures...I need some pictures. Every coolant hose under the hood, please.

How much coolant did you get in it?
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I will tomorrow. I'd say 3gallons ish
 
Might be closer to 4 probably now that I think about it
 
I jacked front end up pretty high and that's what done it cause I could see it circulating then I put cap on and held for a while but gauges are definitely off. I been wanting a digital thermometer for long time anyway so good time to use it lol
 
4 gallons sounds about right. I think that's pretty much what a factory setup holds, so depending on the size of the radiator, I feel like you're good to go there. Before you change the sensor, I'd put it in the front of the driver's side head and see if anything changes. I'd also turn the fan off and see if it warms up any more. You can get a regular thermometer and hang it in the coolant in the radiator with the cap off. It won't hurt anything to run it without the cap on. If there is an air pocket, once the thermostat opens, it'll suck down more coolant and you can fill it the rest of the way up if need be.
 
Croatan_Kid said:
4 gallons sounds about right. I think that's pretty much what a factory setup holds, so depending on the size of the radiator, I feel like you're good to go there. Before you change the sensor, I'd put it in the front of the driver's side head and see if anything changes. I'd also turn the fan off and see if it warms up any more. You can get a regular thermometer and hang it in the coolant in the radiator with the cap off. It won't hurt anything to run it without the cap on. If there is an air pocket, once the thermostat opens, it'll suck down more coolant and you can fill it the rest of the way up if need be.
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i have the factory jeep temp sensor in pass rear of head, and in the front drivers side head is the factory LS temp sensor with a T fitting for the theromstat sensor for the fan. I took that off to verify any air pockets all was good. It's a 3 row radiator downflow with 2760cfm fan and shroud...top hose on drivers side, lower hose on passenger lower corner.
I think from the start I filled it up too quick is my guess since I don't work with 3 row radiators often i didn't take into account how much coolant it holds plus a bare empty block and heater core...stupid me i reckon haha. thermometer will allow me to really see what's going on but my money is on the temp sender for jeep gauge is broke/half broke!! I know darn well that engine temp wasn't no 145, 185/190 yeah but no way it was what the gauge was saying.
At least I'm on the home stretch now with just getting an accurate temp gauge working and gotta get a/c lines brazed.
 
thanks very much for all the help from you guys!! :beer:
 
I'm not sure how the AC hard lines will be set up, but this applies if using the GM section where the high side fitting is mounted.

Do yourself (and the customer) a favor and pick up one of these fittings for the high side of the AC. The factory rubber ball seal in that fitting is essentially a one time use and they're famous for leaking. This one has a Schrader valve in it and won't let you down.

Dorman PN is 800-955. They're less than 10 bucks and reusable. The low side is already a Schrader valve style seal.

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You (or whoever charges the AC system) will probably have to charge it based on the high and low side pressures instead of a set freon weight. There's no telling how much it will hold, but should be pretty easy to get dialed in.

Looking forward to it being all finished up! I've always liked the challenge of adapting things that were never really intending to work together and having them function just like a factory setup.
 
Croatan_Kid said:
yourself (and the customer) a favor and pick up one of these fittings for the high side of the AC. The factory rubber ball seal in that fitting is essentially a one time use and they're famous for leaking. This one has a Schrader valve in it and won't let you down.

Dorman PN is 800-955. They're less than 10 bucks and reusable. The low side is already a Schrader valve style seal.
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Awesome thank you and yes, I'm looking forward to it being finished. His boss is in line for her LS swap so I'm pretty happy to be getting into this. Next one is gonna be sooo much quicker. Then my old jeep buggy in my avatar is coming back this fall for LS swap...he's gathering parts now.
 
I'm about needing to hire someone like yesterday haha (no serious though)
 
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