1 Ton YJ'ish Build

I say cut the grill, or take the body lift out from under grill so it drops down some, then cut hood to match dropped grill, then drop the hoop to match new lower better line for visibility

hope that makes sense
 
I say cut the grill, or take the body lift out from under grill so it drops down some, then cut hood to match dropped grill, then drop the hoop to match new lower better line for visibility
hope that makes sense

i did something similar to this last year to help out with visability... (no body lift though):

http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a180/bigassedredjeep/random/front-end/
ai11.photobucket.com_albums_a180_bigassedredjeep_random_front_end_P3050112.jpg


ai11.photobucket.com_albums_a180_bigassedredjeep_random_front_end_P3050114.jpg
 
I already removed the spacers from under the grill. Because there is a 2" BL on the tub, and not on the grill it already slopes down considerably. I suppose I could chop it further, but I don't want to make it look like a "funny car".

Taking the BL out from under the tub is not an option... that ship has sailed.

At first I was thinking that higher would net me a little better roll protection, but this may be a little over the top. Although from the side I think it looks pretty good.

Dropping it down should be no big deal. A little more bend and a little more chop. :rolleyes:
 
Looking good man! How many sticks of tube have you used so far?
 
ya that looks a lot better.. glad you took the 2" spacers out..

the fender line is perfect with the rest of the tube on tube
 
Lookin' good, Griz!

Hey buddy,
Things are looking good! Nice work. Looking forward to seeing it soon... perhaps in action! Give Chappy my best.
Alex
 
Sorry... The bench seat is not staying.

I've been spending most of my time/$$ putting this motor back together:

Low end torque cam, timing stuff, installed the heads and intake, etc, etc. The intake was a pain to install since the center bolt holes had to be opened up at a different angle to match the angle on this block.

ai71.photobucket.com_albums_i135_sff5758_YJ_20Buggy_20Build_EngineAssby.jpg
 
Worked on motor mounts this week:

Used 3/8 plate to bolt to the engine, and 1/4" for the tabs. Sourced some YJ urethane shackle bushing kits and 1.5" tube: Not bad for $20.
ai71.photobucket.com_albums_i135_sff5758_YJ_20Buggy_20Build_motormount.jpg


Drivers side mount:
ai71.photobucket.com_albums_i135_sff5758_YJ_20Buggy_20Build_DriversMotorMount.jpg


Passenger side mount:
ai71.photobucket.com_albums_i135_sff5758_YJ_20Buggy_20Build_PassengerMotorMount.jpg


Engine has been placed almost 2" over to the passenger side to allow clearance for the driveshaft, but hopefully still enough room for headers.

ai71.photobucket.com_albums_i135_sff5758_YJ_20Buggy_20Build_MotorPacement.jpg
 
Nice build, cannot wait to see it done.
 
203/205 Doubler Setup

Spent the day twin-sticking my Ford NP205 and using a Jed's Machine Shop 203/205 Doubler setup to mate with my Chevy NP203 range box.

You will see that the Chevy 203 range box has the H-N-L selector on the passenger side, as opposed to the Ford 203 and Ford 205 which have the shifters on the Drivers side.

It would have been very difficult to have a triple stick setup with shifters on different sides of the doubler, so I decided to fab up some cable shifters:

Used some parts from McMaster-Carr.com

1338K21 LOW FRICTION THREADED-MOUNT PUSH/PULL CABLE, 1/4"-28 THREADED ENDS, 4' OVERALL LENGTH

6071K12 FORGED STEEL CLEVIS ROD END, 1/4"-28 FEMALE THREAD SIZE, 2" LENGTH

Twin-sticking the NP205 for separate control of the front and rear drivelines... not a necessity, but an occasional front dig would be nice.
ai71.photobucket.com_albums_i135_sff5758_S6300324.jpg


ai71.photobucket.com_albums_i135_sff5758_S6300334.jpg


Doubler setup clocked 2" up to bring it level with the base of the NP203.


Built a bracket to mount my cable's fixed points.
ai71.photobucket.com_albums_i135_sff5758_S6300336.jpg


ai71.photobucket.com_albums_i135_sff5758_S6300337.jpg


ai71.photobucket.com_albums_i135_sff5758_S6300338.jpg
 
Lookin' good! Sorry I could not make it....but the m416 has some paint on it now.
 
Great idea on the shifters :beer:
 
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