1 Ton YJ'ish Build

NP205 Crossmember

Word of advice... if you want to put a 203/205 in a YJ, be prepared to cut a big hole in your floor. I have a 2" body lift on here and still had to cut a chunk out! The 205 output is now level with the old floor. More cutting is needed.
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I will have 2 crossmembers. One at the tail of the transmission and one at the 205. I had to get creative since there aren't any mounts under a 205. There are bushings at both frame connectors.
Drivers Side:
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Passenger Side: Cut out a new thicker PTO cover and welded directly to that.
ai71.photobucket.com_albums_i135_sff5758_YJ_20Buggy_20Build_S6300342.jpg

Driveshaft will have plenty of clearance. I mocked in the old YJ shaft for visualization purposes:
ai71.photobucket.com_albums_i135_sff5758_YJ_20Buggy_20Build_S6300340.jpg

ai71.photobucket.com_albums_i135_sff5758_YJ_20Buggy_20Build_S6300343.jpg

My picture angle is a little off, but the doubler sits about 1.5 inches below the frame.
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You have been busy this week. Looks great. It looks like you went with the option of using a transmission jack. Now we can get started on the rear suspension!!

Scott
 
Awwww, don't be a puss about cutting holes in your floorboard....LOL

Looks good man!

:beer:
 
4 link calculations

So I have tacked in the lower links and have run everything through the 4 link calculator. All measurements are using the 30" rollers at the corresponding ride height.

My upper frame mounted links have 5 holes and 5 inches of adjustability. The antisquat can be adjusted from 69% to 146%

ai71.photobucket.com_albums_i135_sff5758_YJ_20Buggy_20Build_4linkresults.jpg
 
4 link finished

Slow Progress but here are some pictures.
Got the 4-link burned in. I still need to finish burning the cross-member in once I get the rest of the belly stuff done. I'll also probably add some gussets to the lower axle tabs.

Left and Right hand Johnny Joints. 2" x .25" Square Tubing. Tubing adapters were plug welded and welded around the circumference.

ai71.photobucket.com_albums_i135_sff5758_YJ_20Buggy_20Build_S6300357.jpg

ai71.photobucket.com_albums_i135_sff5758_YJ_20Buggy_20Build_S6300356.jpg

ai71.photobucket.com_albums_i135_sff5758_YJ_20Buggy_20Build_S6300352.jpg

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hey when you are done building my jeep just shoot me a pm and i will give you the address so you can drop it off :flipoff2:

lookin real good. kinda reminds me of slade's yj. i kinda want to back half my tj now
 
hey when you are done building my jeep just shoot me a pm and i will give you the address so you can drop it off :flipoff2:
lookin real good. kinda reminds me of slade's yj. i kinda want to back half my tj now

I thought I had an original idea until I saw Slade's sitting up at 4wp one day... kinda burst my bubble.

I have to say I like my backhalf better. :fuck-you: (Sorry Greg)
 
Franken-Bracket

By popular demand:

Franken-Bracket... the ugliest functional bracket I've ever made. It supports the 700r4 and also the 203 (at the adapter plate). Now I have 2 crossmembers. This one and the one at the NP205. Should keep things supported. The humps are to clear the exhaust and front driveshaft.

ai71.photobucket.com_albums_i135_sff5758_YJ_20Buggy_20Build_Franken_bracket.jpg
 
Console revisited

I rethought the console and TC shifters. They were too far away, and I just didn't like the look and thought that they block view of the dash and gauge locations.
So I cut it out and replaced it with this one (of course it's just tacked in for now. This is cleaner looking, easier to reach, and will bolt to the dash. I also cut about 6-8 inches off the shifter length.
ai71.photobucket.com_albums_i135_sff5758_YJ_20Buggy_20Build_shifterandconsole2.jpg

ai71.photobucket.com_albums_i135_sff5758_YJ_20Buggy_20Build_shifterandconsole1.jpg
 
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