1 Ton YJ'ish Build

''When I bought this axle , and I knew it axle needed a re-build (seals, gears, brakes, bearings) but when you pay $1000 for an axle, you expect that the structure of the axle is in good shape... bit screwed on this''


I feel your pain, I did the same thing with another board member. But I bring this up not to slander anyone, just to say its just like buying a used car. If its broke and nobody catches it during the sale its your baby. Its ultimately up to the buyer to varify anything, but like my situation: What buyer or seller is going to tear down something from top to bottom. It's just bad luck for the most part until someone gets a bad rep for selling known bad parts.
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
''When I bought this axle , and I knew it axle needed a re-build (seals, gears, brakes, bearings) but when you pay $1000 for an axle, you expect that the structure of the axle is in good shape... bit screwed on this''
I feel your pain, I did the same thing with another board member. But I bring this up not to slander anyone, just to say its just like buying a used car. If its broke and nobody catches it during the sale its your baby. Its ultimately up to the buyer to varify anything, but like my situation: What buyer or seller is going to tear down something from top to bottom. It's just bad luck for the most part until someone gets a bad rep for selling known bad parts.
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Perhaps... the brakes were the only thing that had been removed. I'm not saying he knew about the condition. I just feel that I over paid, considering the condition... hind sight is 20-20.

I welded it up top and bottom, and am done with it.

ai71.photobucket.com_albums_i135_sff5758_YJ_20Buggy_20Build_3_20b_09001.jpg
 
Ok. So you may have guessed that I took the afternoon off, and spent it in the shop.

mocked the steering in... I'll need to remove the old trackbar brackets, but you get the idea:
ai71.photobucket.com_albums_i135_sff5758_YJ_20Buggy_20Build_3_20b_09002.jpg


With some luck, it will clear just between the radiator and engine.
ai71.photobucket.com_albums_i135_sff5758_YJ_20Buggy_20Build_3_20b_09003.jpg


I'm not sold on the truss location yet... The drivers side location will be tight, and possibly limit up-travel, unless I notch the frame.
ai71.photobucket.com_albums_i135_sff5758_YJ_20Buggy_20Build_3_20b_09004.jpg
 
hey since you had the king pin apart, I got a question. How does the tooling work for instaling that cone shaped pin? I got a Dodge 60 I'm helping out with and haven't dissasembled. The Dodge manual shows a torch wrench on some specific tooling. I'm curently more fluent in common ball joints and the tooling related to them.
 
The cone shaped pin is the Kingpin. If you were to look into the top of the cone, you'd see that it has a recess for an allen key.

It basically just threads down into the Inner-C.

The Dodge, Chevy, and Ford are all basically the same thing.

There's a great article from Billvista here:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-Kingpin/index.html
You need a HUGE (7/8") allen wrench to get that puppy in and out, but I've also heard of people welding a 7/8 nut to a bolt and getting it out that way too.

awww.pirate4x4.com_tech_billavista_PR_Kingpin_DCP_6788_small.jpg
 
TheGriz said:
I ended the evening in a $hit mood:
We needed to pull the knuckle back off to align the axle shaft splines with the locklight. When we pulled the knuckle back off, Metto noticed that the kingpin was very loose. At first, we thought it was just unthreaded, and needed to be tightened.
Upon closer inspection, we found that the inner-C's threads were completely gone...
When I bought this axle from 1BIGAZZBURBN, and I knew it axle needed a re-build (seals, gears, brakes, bearings) but when you pay $1000 for an axle, you expect that the structure of the axle is in good shape... I feel a bit screwed on this deal.

This really frustrated me, since new inner C-s, removal/install is expensive and a pain in the neck.
ai71.photobucket.com_albums_i135_sff5758_YJ_20Buggy_20Build_3_20_09005.jpg


ai71.photobucket.com_albums_i135_sff5758_YJ_20Buggy_20Build_th_3_20_09007.jpg
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Steve... let's not get carried away with the slandering. I certainly hope you DON'T think that I knew that the axle had a problem such as that. I sold it in the same condition I bought it in.
 
we have 7/8 chromoly hex stock for $10 bucks a piece to get the king pins out. This way you just drop a 7/8 socket on it and your good to go..........well after some torch love and some sweating or at least a good 3/4 impact.

looks good steve, Im going to get by there one night to check it out. Ill bring some slug caps w/ me. :flipoff2:
 
1BIGAZZBURBN said:
Steve... let's not get carried away with the slandering. I certainly hope you DON'T think that I knew that the axle had a problem such as that. I sold it in the same condition I bought it in.
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I'm over it. There's no way for me to know what you knew before selling it, so there's no sense in me getting worked up over it. I'm not upset. It was just a good lesson for me, to check things out a little better.

But as you can see. I moved on.

:D
 
Thanks for the great link, the Dogde manual only showed a tool and some sort of torque wrench, and that monster 600lb torque value. Never having one apart I thought I was going to invest in yet another speacialty tool.
 
TheGriz said:
Made the steering valve mount and cut down my column linkage.
ai71.photobucket.com_albums_i135_sff5758_YJ_20Buggy_20Build_3_27_09002.jpg

ai71.photobucket.com_albums_i135_sff5758_YJ_20Buggy_20Build_3_27_09003.jpg
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Looks real good, I mounted mine in a similar fashion and found a unforseen problem. I honestly don't know how your body is mounted or if your on rails and skins. Mine is body on frame. The problem I had was with the two flexing independent of each other. The colaspable part of the column kept creaping up shorter and shorter. It would come loose and I'd loose all steering. Yes its supposed to bolt on. I would never have known it was binding had I bolted it up and went on. The shaft doesn't slip freely from the factory so I guess I'll have to correct that.:beer:
 
TheGriz said:
Front brakes and hubs/flanges completed:
ai71.photobucket.com_albums_i135_sff5758_YJ_20Buggy_20Build_3_27_09010.jpg

If you look closely, you see that I'm going to have to notch the frame to allow the steering tubes some up-travel.
Time for driveshafts to be completed:
ai71.photobucket.com_albums_i135_sff5758_YJ_20Buggy_20Build_3_27_09005.jpg
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FYI.. I found another driveshaft that you can use if ya need it.. you can check it out tomorrow if you come over
 
Thanks Ken... I just dropped these off at Brakes Inc. I gave up trying to weld in the press fit section. There's no way to get it close enough. Especially for the rear.

I'll eventually be looking to swap my 205 front yoke to 1350. Right now the front yoke is 1310 and the D60 Yoke is 1330.

I'll def. want to upgrade those before too long.

Hmmmmm 1310 = weak link???? maybe this isn't a bad place to keep the weak link. We'll see I guess.
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
Looks real good, I mounted mine in a similar fashion and found a unforseen problem. I honestly don't know how your body is mounted or if your on rails and skins. Mine is body on frame. The problem I had was with the two flexing independent of each other. The colaspable part of the column kept creaping up shorter and shorter. It would come loose and I'd loose all steering. Yes its supposed to bolt on. I would never have known it was binding had I bolted it up and went on. The shaft doesn't slip freely from the factory so I guess I'll have to correct that.:beer:
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Thanks for the heads up. Luckily, my frame and tub are now one... so I shouldn't see any flex between the two.
 
Looking good, you need to roll that thing outside and get a few pics of the grand scheme!
 
Yager... you used to run a grand marquis master cylinder right? Do you remember which port was for the front and which was for the rear? I think I may have it backwards. I have the larger port (rear of the MC) going to the rear brakes.

Basically, I need to wire up the lockup and line lock, setup the TV cable, fill with fluids, make a skid plate, and finish routing the exhaust.

I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.
 
TheGriz said:
Yager... you used to run a grand marquis master cylinder right? Do you remember which port was for the front and which was for the rear? I think I may have it backwards. I have the larger port (rear of the MC) going to the rear brakes.
Basically, I need to wire up the lockup and line lock, setup the TV cable, fill with fluids, make a skid plate, and finish routing the exhaust.
I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.
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I'm running that same master cylinder, I have the rear resi for front brakes, and the front resi for the rear brakes. On mine, the front needs more fluid for the huge chevy calipers, while there rear calipers are fairly small, at least compared to the front.
 
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