"Blast from the Past" 79' RV restore

How dead were your batteries when you plugged it back up? I'd say that converter is more like a trickle charger and won't charge a dead battery very well.
Just guessing but all I can come up with.
well 1 new battery, 2 older "house batteries" but even with 1new one it read poor when i got it home. The converter puts out 6-8amps charging so yeah it's not supposed to be high powered charge but enough i guess to keep em going when plugged in. Eventually it will have all 3 new batteries!
 
I know you like that "open plan" but I can't help but have concerns that the RV will now "oilcan" or fold like an empty crackerbox without some sort of internal lateral support.
 
I know you like that "open plan" but I can't help but have concerns that the RV will now "oilcan" or fold like an empty crackerbox without some sort of internal lateral support.
uhh....I can assure you any/all of the original shelving/cabinets have nothing structurally to do with the RV support. 1. It's a Metal Square Frame, not wooden. 2 I actually made it probably twice as strong with all the 1x2 slats every 16" tying in the walls and roof metal studs. Don't get me wrong, someone side swipes one of these and it's done period or from the rear but hey, it's an RV not a house or tank. These have to be built with weight in mind according to power train and add safety as much as possible but wood/metal/fiberglass RVs are pretty much rolling deathtraps in my viewpoint but the pros and luxuries they offer I guess outweigh the safety drawbacks so they are more desired to use lol.
I try not to think of someone hitting us from the side or rear as that is VERY SCARY to think of since these walls are practically nothing (was like that before) and the metal studs are only 4ft centers and 3ft on back wall. I'm sure I've added maybe 25%more rigidity to it but still does not ease the thought so I just focus on the possible and when driving, I think I'm gonna relearn the meaning of "being alert"
 
uhh....I can assure you any/all of the original shelving/cabinets have nothing structurally to do with the RV support. 1. It's a Metal Square Frame, not wooden. 2 I actually made it probably twice as strong with all the 1x2 slats every 16" tying in the walls and roof metal studs. Don't get me wrong, someone side swipes one of these and it's done period or from the rear but hey, it's an RV not a house or tank. These have to be built with weight in mind according to power train and add safety as much as possible but wood/metal/fiberglass RVs are pretty much rolling deathtraps in my viewpoint but the pros and luxuries they offer I guess outweigh the safety drawbacks so they are more desired to use lol.
I try not to think of someone hitting us from the side or rear as that is VERY SCARY to think of since these walls are practically nothing (was like that before) and the metal studs are only 4ft centers and 3ft on back wall. I'm sure I've added maybe 25%more rigidity to it but still does not ease the thought so I just focus on the possible and when driving, I think I'm gonna relearn the meaning of "being alert"


You are exactly right about the crash integrity, they suck new or used. The last one I saw looked like a tornado had landed in a trailer park.
 
What I'm speaking of, has nothing to do with the rigidity of the cabinetry you removed. While flimsy and weak in-and-of themselves, the demising walls you removed at the bunk beds/kitchen and range, as well as surrounding the toilet, provided lateral support.
Think of it as a cardboard divider in a chik-fil-a drink holder. Sure you can fold it flat with on flick, but when all the parts are in place it acts as much more rigid support than you would imagine from something so flimsy.
While RV's are only designed to meet MINIMUM requirements for strength, the walls you removed were part of the original design. It COULD be they were somewhat important. That's all I'm trying to say....it would be my primary concern for making an open floor plan.
 
What I'm speaking of, has nothing to do with the rigidity of the cabinetry you removed. While flimsy and weak in-and-of themselves, the demising walls you removed at the bunk beds/kitchen and range, as well as surrounding the toilet, provided lateral support.
Think of it as a cardboard divider in a chik-fil-a drink holder. Sure you can fold it flat with on flick, but when all the parts are in place it acts as much more rigid support than you would imagine from something so flimsy.
While RV's are only designed to meet MINIMUM requirements for strength, the walls you removed were part of the original design. It COULD be they were somewhat important. That's all I'm trying to say....it would be my primary concern for making an open floor plan.


I don't condone agreeing with JF but...

How many box trucks do you see folded over like a drink holder?
 
Intervals of support, gauge of steel (steel!) as well as shape, are MUCH closer in box trucks, enclosed trailers, and most open structures.
the metal studs are only 4ft centers and 3ft on back wall.
 
I don't condone agreeing with JF but...

How many box trucks do you see folded over like a drink holder?
But box trucks typically have steel or e track ribs to provide said support

While RV's are only designed to meet MINIMUM requirements for strength, the walls you removed were part of the original design. It COULD be they were somewhat important. That's all I'm trying to say....it would be my primary concern for making an open floor plan.

Given the age and the leniency of crash testing in that time Im betting it never entered their minds...
 
Given the age and the leniency of crash testing in that time Im betting it never entered their minds...

Such a shame....I mean, I can think of few jobs that would be more fun (fully clothed) than destroying old RV's for the sake of "science and safety"
 
Such a shame....I mean, I can think of few jobs that would be more fun (fully clothed) than destroying old RV's for the sake of "science and safety"
I don't think I would want to see this!!! LOL, it would scare me so bad I wouldn't want to drive mine anywhere and that would suck so I'll just keep ignoring the fact that they suck for safety and be SUPER SUPER aware when driving!!
 
Given the age and the leniency of crash testing in that time Im betting it never entered their minds...
this I would have to agree with as I was very shocked when I saw how soft the walls are in between the studs. Even though there is 7/16plywood and the 1" thick foam board, it would not take much at all for suv/truck to go through it.
I do however feel much better with the 1x2 slats that I used to tie together the studs every 16". Might not sound like much but that's 7 across on each wall and ceiling so that will help some I guess. I'll just keep the faith and prayers strong on every trip!!
 
What I'm speaking of, has nothing to do with the rigidity of the cabinetry you removed. While flimsy and weak in-and-of themselves, the demising walls you removed at the bunk beds/kitchen and range, as well as surrounding the toilet, provided lateral support.
Think of it as a cardboard divider in a chik-fil-a drink holder. Sure you can fold it flat with on flick, but when all the parts are in place it acts as much more rigid support than you would imagine from something so flimsy.
While RV's are only designed to meet MINIMUM requirements for strength, the walls you removed were part of the original design. It COULD be they were somewhat important. That's all I'm trying to say....it would be my primary concern for making an open floor plan.
I understand your point but the only way those shelves would have done anything laterally speaking from side impact would be if they went all the way across the middle section which they didn't. Since the shelves only came out 12-18" average and stopped, that would have done nothing in strengthening a "side impact." All in all they are cool and useful and comfortable just not in the "safety" aspect lol.
 
I understand your point but the only way those shelves would have done anything laterally speaking from side impact would be if they went all the way across the middle section which they didn't. Since the shelves only came out 12-18" average and stopped, that would have done nothing in strengthening

There is a joke here about triangulation and the science of metals but I'll spare you.

Think of a gusset, it doesn't run the full length but still adds strength
 
I agree and understand, but I have such a low opinion of camper quality I guess I'm bias. Adding a couple 3/4 plywood gusset triangles to the aluminum ceiling and wall you would accomplish everything the cabinet would have.
 
Armchair Engineering (TM)
Armchair Power (TM)
Armchair Architecture (TM)

too late. just trademarked them. but we are going to be rich
 
A little update: with pictures coming soon.
Got carpet installed!! LOOKS AWESOME with carpet, what a difference it made.
Got the Flowmasters installed Friday, new U-Joints in driveshafts, and installed both driveshafts by end of day on Friday WOOHOO...FINALLY. I just have to install the 4 u-joint straps on the rear and it's ready to move Sunday!! Haven't heard it yet with engine stuff being off already but will soon.
(must say this was not fun where it's parked on a slant and don't trust lifting up at all. crawling up under it at stock height to do the dual exhaust and make it all tight/welded in and proper and then driveshaft install....was about the most awkward welding I've done, most head damage I've gotten (3 good cuts) and lots of rocks digging into my back and hot melted weld falling on me :kaioken:lol. Good thing I'm pretty small guy...another 15lb on me and no way jose)
The Converter battery charger light now lights up and is charging the batteries to the full potential!(that was cool to just have happened on it's own lol)
Installed all the cabinet doors on...still needing hardware.
This coming up week is Water pump, thermostat, flush cooling system, front and rear brakes, new belts, new alternator (upgrading from 63amp to 100amp). and once this is complete, this baby is ready for adventure.
 
Why would you put Flowmasters on an RV? That thing is going to be so annoying trying to drive it anywhere. A big cavern like that is going to be a boom tube for the droning.
well upgrading exhaust is a must for optimal performance and since I had it laying around figured might as well use it. Plus the exhaust comes out way in the back behind the rear wheels pointing out the side so won't be that loud for us, maybe for the cars next to us if I hammer down on throttle but who wouldn't like hearing a "hot rod" RV HA HA HA. And same reason I put big home stereo in it...Why not? I'm different, like the cool factor and love the sound of a good v8 and helps it run better. Between the stereo and exhaust people will get a trip out of this thing!!
 
It'll still be loud with Flowmasters, but to each his own. You would get the same performance with some turbo mufflers but at a fraction of the interior drone and annoyance.
very true but that would be more money that I didn't need to spend! Now, I don't know if the big cab has anything to do with it but every vehicle/car/truck/suv or van that I've done exhaust work on, only when exhaust is dumped underneath does it make it sifnificantly louder but when exhaust is ran out the very back or back sides of vehicles, the sound inside is usually nothing compared to dumping underneath so unless I'm missing something on this "train of thought" than I don't see why dumping behind rear wheels out the side would be that loud and have interior "drone" when it's pointing away from vehicle on both sides. On Tahoe since I've had 4 of them, when dumped out the rear facing the rear sounds good but not that loud inside at all: Dumped out the sides of Tahoe little louder when flooring it but not too noticeable inside cab...dumped underneath the rear diff on Tahoe and Jeeps is where things get loud/hot rod sound (which is not bad) so I based my setup on that experience. Factory exhaust when sitting inside with doghouse cover on couldn't not hear nothing but engine and loud fan even revved up so I'm pretty sure the sound of the motor is going to be the "annoying" culprit inside the cab rather than exhaust. I'm hoping to insulate the doghouse somehow to keep that noise down as the motor sounds like crap when half throttle or more so that is my main concern!
 
you will have 20' of exhaust pipe running under the open cabin on the RV. You need attenuation. You will have drone. You may not care.
 
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