JK and K5 build threads Bc you can never have too many toys

JWebbie2 said:
Awesome! Thanks man! But I'll probably raise it a little bit because the pumpkin on that Sterling is pretty big lol. But I'll definitely be pming you here soon when I get the tank and gas pump. What else do I need for it?
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05-06 TJ tank, pump, and skid-plate. You have to extend the wiring, evap, and fuel lines. And then modify your filler neck or get a TJ one.
 
Engine is ready to go back in, might do that tomorrow since I need to refill my bottle for the welder.

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Front suspension is kinda mocked up, got some parts in for it the other day just need to fill my bottle on Monday so I can build my body mount/spring hangers.

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Got the ORD 3/8 wall tie rod, need to get some TREs for it and a clamp to go around it. Shackle hangers from DIY4x and the cap for hydro assist. Need to sell/trade my 6.75 stroke and get a 8.0" stroke ram, and where do y'all get your fittings for drilling and tapping your own boxes?

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Got some kingpin rebuild kits in my garage somewhere so I can go through them. I'm gonna weld the front diff and probably put some non greasable spicer joints in the factory shafts for right now. Since I might end up using it as daily till I get a towrig/daily driver I'm gonna run some 40-16/17 LTBs. Not the most road friendly tire but they should last long enough for what I need.

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We keep joking about it not fitting out of the garage on these rollers. But I know with the 40s of wont fit.
 
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Pulled the radiator support to make putting the engine in easier on me. Then started cleaning of the motor mount pads, then the frame horns and 3 hours later from the shackle hangers forward is cleaned and painted.

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Then the firewall same thing happened lol

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But engine is now sitting in there, real fun starts tomorrow.
 
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Rebuilt the kingpins yesterday, put the 3/4 ton brake kit on it, and ordered the rest of the stuff so I can finish getting the engine back together. Need to clean up the serpentine belt setup I picked up for it, finish building the front body mounts, and replace all the body bushings.
 
rockcity said:
how hard were the kingpins to remove? I have the hex to go in them to remove mine but haven't tried it yet.
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I think I hit them maybe 5 or 6 times and they came loose. It's stupid easy and works like a champ. It's how I told Ed to remove them but he's old school lol
 
I haven't neglected the jeep completely, I worked out the geometry for the rear double triangulated 4 link and drew the brackets up on SW. This fall ill cut them out at school on the CNC plasma table. Shooting for 22" belly height, 14" travel coilovers, 8" rear stretch, 110" wheelbase, mid 80s anti squat, 38" upper and lower control arms, 6" up/8" down travel with 43" TSL/SXs. I've still got to draw the back half kit that'll be similar to a build I saw Poison Spyder did for Northridge4x4. Still need to draw the front 3 link or 4 link, and haven't decided if I want to run a double ended ram or not. I'll gather parts this summer for the jeep.

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All the brackets will be tabbed to fit together, trying to be fancy.

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iwaxmyjimmy said:
I think I hit them maybe 5 or 6 times and they came loose. It's stupid easy and works like a champ. It's how I told Ed to remove them but he's old school lol
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Ed didn't do them. I even told him how to do them. I guess I'll just heat up and use the hex. If they resist, I'll do the welding like you did. :)
 
Besides the double ended ram, what are your other options?

If you are considering a DE ram versus single on full hydro, go double ended.

If it's a choice of the ram providing assist to your mechanical steering, then a single typically does the trick.
 
If I go three link, ill keep a steering box and go with ram assist. Just move it up and forward when I cut the frame rails in front of the engine mounts. if I go 4 link I'll do a DE ram I just haven't decided which route I want to go yet.
 
I still want to drive it on the street some, so technically I need to have a steering box, but realistically I've got enough friends around here to get it inspected with full Hydro.


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I haven't driven anything with a double ended ram on the steet... I know u4 guys do in excess of 100mph with them but I'm hesitant still


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Get a good orbital that has a return to center type set up and it's not much different than a gear box. I've driven mine on the street multiple times without worry or issue. Go for it unless you find a good way to do the mechanical linkage. There are several good designs out there for 3 and 4 link long travel setups.
 
I was gonna just run a PSC JK specific setup. That would take all the guess work out of it.


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Around town at the most to run errands, not driving from Greenville to Uwharrie. Paying off so,e stuff this summer and buying a tow right/daily driver this fall. Really don't want to daily my k5 while I build the jeep, lol.


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paradisePWoffrd said:
If I were going 43s and wanted to drive it on the street a bunch, I would likely go 3 link with a steering setup like here: The 4500 steering that won a national points Championship - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum. If it was just around the corner every now and again or on the main roads at URE type deal, i would go full hydro, double ended ram with a load reactive orbital.
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That's a long but good read, I almost want to run that and a 3 link because it's a pretty trick setup.
 
Well got a lot of parts in, but had to order a new alternator, crank pulley, and idler pulley. So I'm gonna make some shackles since relocated the shackle hangers up front. Moved the front axle forward, got the 1/2 ton calipers mounted out back and switched the 3/4 ton calipers for up front. Fished the bolt out of the pan, dropped the dizzy in, got everything set up so once I get my pulleys in I should be able to test fire it.

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Also need to fill my bottle up so I can finish welding my body mount/spring hangers together.

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Made more progress, need to pick up a new fuel filter. Tank had rust on the inside so replaced it. It did run for about 10 mins and then ran out of fuel/filter was clogged.

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After fixing a few wires in the harness at the firewall, and injector connector, and rewriting my starter I got it back running. Still need to dial in the timing but started on the exhaust today. Need to buy a muffler and few bends to finish the tail pipe. Switched it over to a vortec style gear reduction starter. Put a new clutch marcher cylinder and slave cylinder in it. Been a busy day.

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Still need to do some fitting of the winch plate up front, put a timing light on it and bleed the brakes and I might piss off my neighbors driving it around the neighborhood.
 
Well finished fabricating my exhaust for the k5 after brown santa dropped off the rest of the bends and the muffler.... started it up and noticed some ticking in the valve-train. Went to lash the valves and no oil under the valve covers. So I'm debating on pulling the engine and blowing out the passages. Pretty butthurt over it. But I've got base engine oil pressure just nothing to the heads. Gonna pull the engine and the timing cover and blow out the oil passages the best I can and see what I've got. freaking sucks but hopefully I'll get it all worked out.

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Possible lifter or pushrod issue?
 
Croatan_Kid said:
Possible lifter or pushrod issue?
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Highly unlikely for all the lifters and pushrods are screwed. Gonna put another oil filter on it, hook up a test gauge to make sure I've got oil pressure by priming it. If nothing then I'm gonna pull the trans and timing cover and attempt to blow out the oil galleys. If I end up pulling the engine and tearing it down and find any trashed bearings I'm just gonna build it into a 383 most likely. I feel like that will be my cheapest upgrade route. I'm gonna get around to working in it tomorrow and see what I can come up with. I feel like I've got too much money in the 350 setup between the exhaust and intake to say fuck it and LS swap it. I can get a 383 rotating assembly for $800 with a very slight compression boost 9.6 over factory 9.2 , or I might look into a vortec short block. Staying with TBI performer intake and the 193 casting heads, because it'll make brutal low end and be easier to tune and dial in. I'll know more of the direction tomorrow, praying I can leave the engine in, and get lucky changing the filter or blowing out the passages. I'd hate to not be able to wheel it this summer.
 
Could pull the distributor and spin the oil pump with a drill and see what it does...
 
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