JK and K5 build threads Bc you can never have too many toys

rockcity said:
LOL

Your driveway is rust stained just like mine. :lol:
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It goes great with my basic white chick neighborhood, lol. Been a few things built out there. Just enough to troll the shop by the hairy peter. I’m sure your old driveway could tell some stories.
 
I think I've got at least one whole set of injectors if you need some or just want an extra set to mess with...or possibly to send off to be cleaned and flow tested.
 
Croatan_Kid said:
I think I've got at least one whole set of injectors if you need some or just want an extra set to mess with...or possibly to send off to be cleaned and flow tested.
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I’m gonna see if I can unstick them tomorrow afternoon. Saw where you can reseal the injector rail, I may do that for the price of a few o-rings.
 
I used race city injector in mooresville to have a set of 7.4 injectors cleaned, rebuilt, and flow tested. It was around $200 or so. I think there is a shop in youngsville that can do the same. James mills is his name, good guy, just mainly works on Honda and import turbo tuning, but I know he has the setup to do injectors.

What the specs on your cantilever setup for the k5? Your other post made me curious lol
 
Mac5005 said:
I used race city injector in mooresville to have a set of 7.4 injectors cleaned, rebuilt, and flow tested. It was around $200 or so. I think there is a shop in youngsville that can do the same. James mills is his name, good guy, just mainly works on Honda and import turbo tuning, but I know he has the setup to do injectors.

What the specs on your cantilever setup for the k5? Your other post made me curious lol
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Hell if I know, lol. Only thing I’ve really looked at is how to mount my pivot point. Which I can’t run a solid bar for that, not too worried about it as long as I can make it beefy enough to handle the loads. I won’t be bombing it through the desert especially with soft 52 inch springs up front. I’m thinking a 8” or 10” travel 2.0 shock that I can revalve is all I’ll probably do. But I’ve got some dimple dies so I’ll church it up a little.
 
Well 5 new injectors later after spending 3 nights soaking and pulsing the stuck injectors it runs great. Took it around my basic white chick neighborhood with open headers, realized the cv that was attached to the front output was spinning kinda fast and causing a vibration Bc it was in 4wd. Also realized I hadn’t hooked up the shifter yet so kept it under 10-15. Got on it one time, sounded like it was running perfectly fine.

Ordered the 5.38 gears for it this morning, I’ve got $575 of ECGS gift certificates so I can get all my stuff I need to run my 35 spline hardcore hubs I’ve got sitting on the shelf and to install the gears. I’ve still got a shit ton of stuff left to do. But inbetween making some tool money, I hope to get it back on the road and ready for wheeling by March. Hoping the next few jobs I’ll be able to get the hydraulics for my tubing bender and buy another die so I can my rear bumper. I can’t wait to get back on the trails, I really miss it and haven’t really been wheeling in NC much in the last almost 3 years.
 
Redid the Y pipe, unfortunately the 2.5” tubing going into the flow master merge collector just can’t be equal length like it’s supposed to be. But it ain’t too bad. I need to adjust my tail pipes so they are even. I went with 3” mandrel bent tubing dumped just behind the axle. I haven’t even started it up yet. Still need to tighten the collector bolts and add another hanger or two. Hope it’s not stupid loud I’m getting older

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I finally bought gears for it, and cashed in all my gift certificates from over the years. Gears I got off rock auto, and everything else from ECGS. There was 18 of them and dudes computer crashed and he had to call me back and get me to read them off to him. I felt bad for the dude.

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Also ordered a new grill because I dropped a damn brake caliper on it when moving stuff about the garage. It broke it all to hell and I’m still butthurt over it. I’ve got a few days between another Jeep I’ve got to fix some steering geometry on, that I may go ahead and weld in the 2x6 rockers. I can’t decide on how I want to do the stringers from the rockers to the frame. I plan on doing poly bushings like a YJ spring bushing at the frame side. I do plan on boxing the frame from the front shackles to the rear spring hangers. And I plan on doing a cage that should stiffen up the chassis, but I’d hate for the 2x6 to pull off the rockers. I’m probably just being paranoid. But I’m stoked it runs I need to do all new o-rings on the fuel rail so it’ll stop dropping pressure when it sits.
 
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Oh so my test drive went well with open headers. But I realized I only had about 60% throttle so I’m gonna need to take up some slack in this throttle cable. I want to do burnouts in this POS so bad now.
 
The y pipe isn't equal length when it's stock anyway.

If you wind up not liking the flow master, the DynoMax ultra flo welded series sound and flow quite well.
 
Croatan_Kid said:
The y pipe isn't equal length when it's stock anyway.

If you wind up not liking the flow master, the DynoMax ultra flo welded series sound and flow quite well.
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The muffler is some summit brand 2 chambered that flow master merge collector is the most expensive part of my exhaust, lol.
 
I thought you used a Flowmaster muffler too...my bad. Sounds like that's basically what it is though. The DynoMax I used wasn't cheap, but that's probably because it's dual 3" in and out.
 
Croatan_Kid said:
I thought you used a Flowmaster muffler too...my bad. Sounds like that's basically what it is though. The DynoMax I used wasn't cheap, but that's probably because it's dual 3" in and out.
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Yeah I used a single in and out then Y after it for the duals. I already feel red neck as hell with the duals on it, lol.
 
rockcity said:
Just don’t lift the rear and you’ll fit right in with the rest of the Greenville crowd :lol:
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If does sit a little nose high, I think that’s partially Bc the core support has poly body mounts now and the rest are falling apart. I think I’m going to do a 1 inch add a leave out back to move the axle back 1 1/2”
 
I’m really debating going to 1410 yokes on the pinions. I can get a new yoke for the driveshafts for $70 each. I need to mod the centering ball on the front shaft a little and the 1410 joint at the axle side would help at full droop. Damn leaf springs and a 31” front driveline. I picked up some brand new 1350 double cardan shafts for $180 each off eBay. They fit a 99-04 f250. Id probably have to rebalance them or at least the rear. Front I’ll have to shorten, rear will bolt in with a new flange. Which I picked that up a month or two ago. I wish I had picked up some of them eldarado parking brake calipers when they were around. I did pick up some of the hardware from lugnut. And I did make the hydro assist ram lines as well. Just need to drill and tap the cap/sector shaft and install the billet DIY4x end cap. I’ve got the ram but need to build my brackets to mount it to the diff cover and my tie rod clamp I picked up.
 
I’d go with the 1410. It gives you strength and a greater operating angle range.

If you need any new driveshaft yokes, I have a few new ones laying around.
 
rockcity said:
I’d go with the 1410. It gives you strength and a greater operating angle range.

If you need any new driveshaft yokes, I have a few new ones laying around.
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You sure you just don’t want to build another buggy with all your leftover parts? Lol
 
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I need to adjust the tail pipe and I’ll use a simple clamp so it’s a 3 piece exhaust. Maybe one I get a TIG setup and learn how I’ll redo it and make it look much mo better. Sounds pretty decent. Did get a code for #7 coil, I figured out it was the connector and I need to pull a pin out and crimp/solder it. I’ve still gotta hook up my E-fans, oil sending unit is leaking, and I’m not getting a reading. I wanna say the gauge probably has a bad ground Bc I remember it bouncing.



Ordered a headlight harness that is suppose to allow 4 high and draw voltage from the battery and not the switch. Also got from LMC the power window kit to make those a little faster.

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I’m pretty stoked with the approach angle, it’ll get better once I put the 38.5s on it. And I keep eyeballing some 40 nittos or 42 SX2s. Really debating putting radials on it since I want to drive it to a from the trail for a little bit till I decide what I want to do for a tow rig.

With all my extra stuff I’ve accumulated , I really wouldn’t mind SAS a 2wd 1995-2000 2500 or 99-06 2500HD. Or even build a square body tow rig with a 6.0/4L80e. I’ve got enough 60 parts to build another 4.10 geared bone stock rebuilt GM kingpin 60. I’ve got a 32 spline NP208 and 32 spline SM465 with hydro bellhousing and stuff I need to pull from a truck. I’d prefer a 2wd one because both the speed sensors are in the trans and I’ve got another harness to build my own LS swap. Plus I can take the tailshaft cover off and may just get lucky, with just having to get an adapter and a cut the tailshaft down. Just need to find a 6.0 DBW donor and the truck. Once I stop bleeding money from this k5 build I’m sure I’ll be able to get everything in order. Last year I paid off a lot of stuff to free up funds for this year.
 
You mean 01-06 HD. I'm quite partial to those trucks with solid axles though :D

I've about got a work buddy convinced to let me bolt up an 05+ Super Duty axle and suspension under his 2wd 01 F350 dually. It's gunna be a fun project!
 
Picked up some 14 inch stroke fox 2.0s to use. And ordered a 1.5 die fo do the shock hoops and engine cage up front and the bedcage/hoops for the rear. I’m pretty stoked about it.

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I keep eyeballing doublers and I’m hoping I can make a few bucks off some jobs and parts I need get rid of and buy me a NWF black box.
 
I bit the bullet was ordered everything to build an electric over hydro setup for my bender. It was $500 for the ram, the pump is for a dump trailer and 12v. I can use a car battery no biggie. Gotta pick up the hose but they are SAE fittings so no biggie on that either. This is how I justied not putting lag studs in my garage floor and I have some caster wheels rated for way to heavy duty than a bender cart will be. I’m excited I haven’t done much tube work but I picked up a cheaper notcher last year that I’ve started to get the hang of pretty good. Got the materials to bend up the front hoops and I’ll probably have to pick up some for the rear. Big thing is I’m having fun dicking around in the garage. Ordered my 5th wheel so I can have a full size spare for the k5 and will likely get the tires swapped over to those wheels once I put the shock hoops on it.
 
Didn’t get much done but prepped a frame for me to plate because the steering box ripped off on a k10 and helping another friend rebuild his rear diff after he tried to find the bottom of a mud hole. Dirt and water reeked havoc on his pinion/carrier bearings

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I think water came in through the ARB locker bulkhead. Axle seals looked like they did their job, pinion seal was good and stuck. Overall homie got a crash course in diff work and learned muddy water sucks.
 
Had some stuff show up. I’ll likely start making my cart for the bender tomorrow, all I really need now is to build the cart and get a hose for it. The ram is the same you’d buy from JD2. Fits the JD2 hydro mounts perfectly and is much much cheaper($210 shipped). The hydraulics portion is a 12v setup for a dump trailer single action ram and has an 8 quart reservoir. I know I should have calculated it, but they are cheap enough I can get another resi for dirt cheap. The whole electric/hydraulic setup was only $210 on Amazon. The ram I’m using has a built in return spring and a 14” stroke, literally the same part number as the $400+ one JD2 sells. So $550 or so in a electric over hydro setup using brand new parts and JD2 cylinder Mount.

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