JK and K5 build threads Bc you can never have too many toys

[iwaxmyjimmy]

What heads are on it now?

706 but not the canton ones that crack

 

[Croatan_Kid]

You could have them milled if you want. I don't remember the combustion chamber size on those, but 8cc is worth about a full point in compression and 25-ish hp. I've got a pushrod length checker if you don't feel like buying one and a nice, bolt on, valve spring tool for LS heads.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Got the winch on.

Forgot to take an after with the winch but it’s not too bad.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Figured I’d drink beer and drill and the top my box for hydro assist. Used a DIY4x.com cap on the end of the box. Still have to do my ram mounts this afternoon and reassemble the steering box

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

I need to get a few different bolts because of how I had to do the spacing for the ram mounts. Mainly so I could still fill the diff up, and I also mucked up the seal for the sector shaft trying to get it to pop out. Got one they will be here Tuesday. But man I love driving a vehicle with a hydro assist ram, makes it pretty relaxing not having to two hand it when you’re sitting still and steering.

I’m probably going to build a skid for it, I didn’t want to go high steer on this axle because of the stress it puts on the top of the knuckles and I was worried about clearance with the engine crossmember. I also made a big ass mess when I shot power steering fluid across the driveway..... guess that means the k5 is a squirter sometimes....

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Took about an hour to replace the side plate seal then 30 mins to bleed it all out. I might look into a smaller heat sink cooler and might see if I can adapt a larger reservoir. Other than that seems to be working great. Going to make my spacer to center the ram on the bolts, adjust my steering stops so it limits it about 1/4” before the ram maxes out, and possibly build my skid for it this morning. My local rinky dink club is doing a crawl-in, basically we eat at a restaurant, show face to the public, and drink beer. It’ll be the first time the k5 attends. Today the harness for the reverse lights shows up, channel with the channel for the rear window, and printed circuit board should be here. Maybe I’ll be able to read all my gauges this afternoon.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Fixing the rust hole behind the drive side tire. Wish I could find the pics from when I tore the carpet out 8-9 years ago and found the galvanized sheet that was covering it and siliconed in place. I cut out most the rust in that area then so it hasn’t spread. I’ve been internally debating on pulling the tank one of these days and cutting the bed floor to sink it down in from the top. I’ve got some rear bed floor panels I need to pick up from a friend. And I’ll likely build up the floor so it covers the tank yet again. It’s gonna be a rock magnet hanging under there. We shall see though. I’ll probably never finish this damn thing.

But after this is done I’ll move on to making clearance the floor for the tcase shifter. I’ve gotta get the slip spline turned down so I can stuff it in the DOM for my front driveshaft. 1350CV at the tcase end and 1410 yoke on the axle end. Hopefully Monday I can get it done local. I’ve realized you can’t really tell people but the bare minimum of what you’re doing because they get spooked pretty easily. 2 shops that answered the phone today said no 3 didn’t answer because it’s Friday, I understand that.

Tomorrow I’ll be pulling the driver side spring pack to get that cracked main leaf swapped out. Then I’ll weld on the new spring perches to get a tiny bit better pinion angle. I’ve still got to get a 1410 slip yoke for the rear shaft so can use my U bolt style yoke on the 14 bolt out back. I’ve got a Barnes4wd 13 bolt cover on the way and I’ve already got the pinion guard here at the house.

If I can have it 4wd before Wednesday next week I’m planning on driving it to uwharrie and screwing around up there for the weekend. Telling people this in person has been rather comical, the puzzled look on their face when I say it, is great. I mean worse care scenario it comes back on a trailer or tow truck. I don’t follow that whole build a drivetrain fuse bullshit because screwing a yoke all to shit really can make a bad day. So throw the beef at it and build it so it’s reliable.

I added a Dakota digital Speed sensor signal generator to the tcase last week. It’s really cleared up the drivability, but need to dial in the pulses via the ECM. I’m sure that will wake it up a little more, but it’s been fun to drive. Having the ram assist makes it very easy to drive at highway speeds and it seems to motivate those 38s to maneuver in parking lots easily. It will also take the stress of the frame where these older GM platforms are prone to cracking. I do have a ORD steering box brace and frame reinforcement pieces to install as well.

I’ve got some 1.5 x.120 wall DOM I was going to use for the shock hoops. But I think I’ll just try and pick up some 1.75x.120 wall to do them. I plan on doing the cage out of the same tubing and I want it to flow into each other pretty well. These chassis are like pool noodles and flex like crazy. So I want to tie it together from the core support to the rear bumper. I’m sure the body panels will appreciate it.

Which brings me to I need to also change out all my body mounts with the energy suspension ones I picked up a few years ago. It’s almost like if I used all the parts stuffed inside my nasty ass garage it would clear out so much space.

I still need to pick up some inner chromoly shafts for the 60 up front. I’ve got 2 extra GM 60 housings. Pretty much all the stock parts coming out of the 60 in the front of the k5 will be used to build another one to either sell or I’m sure I’ll find something to put it in.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Oh and put a new channel for the tailgate window. It needs a tailgate Bc it’s got some rust in it.

So I’ll probably do the drill thing till I buy a soft top for it and put a pickup tailgate.

Classy, but trashy at the same time.

And so my cheap ass decided way back like 8 years ago to pick up a tail gate panel to patch the rust hole in the back. I can’t weld sheet metal worth a damn so I’ll church it up with a flapper wheel. And I was tacking my 2nd to the last panel and just so happen tor run out of welding wire. As soon as it didn’t feed I remembered I really needed to get another roll. So tomorrow morning I’m gonna swing by agri supply and grab a roll. It’s cheaper than Lowe’s and it’s the same shit.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Started on my temporary rear bumper today. Also my first project with my tubing bender. I left the mounting plates a little long just so I could figure out how I wanted to shape them along with how I’ll mount my d-ring shackles. Definitely made the bends on two different planes.... whoops but I can massage it to look more ascetically pleasing to the eyes.

Can’t really see it but I’ll dimple the top plate to church it up a little bit. And I found some .030 MIG wire on amazon for $20 I ordered two spools.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Had to get this turned down so it would fit in the cut down super duty shaft.

Got it done then took forever to get the damn clips out of the Double Cardan and I wasted a whole day dicking around with u-joints. But it went back together so smoothly and front shaft is fully rebuild and the right length. I am slightly worried with the length of my slip spline. Haven’t had a chance to go flex it out some where and check it. I’m going to Jack the trans and tcase up an inch or two to help with the front angle especially since I’ve got a CV rear shaft and need to weld on some fancy spring perches I picked up.

But it’s 4wd again. Tomorrow I’m pulling the driver side spring pack to replace a main leaf, finishing the rear bumper, build a skid for the ram, and I’ve gotta redrill a few holes for my winch plate. I purchased it maybe 7 or 8 years ago and the mounting holes were all 1” off. I know the chassis is square because I measured all that when setting up the front suspension.

And if I have time, I’ll swap the rear cover and trim the 14 bolt, along with installing the pinion guard too.

Not really looking to beat the hell out of it this weekend just need to get some seat time and do a good shake down run. I’m more worried about getting there and back and not breaking at uwharrie.

My to do list is shrinking which is good.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Got a good bit done today. Started with making the rear recovery points solid. If I get time I’ll do some more DOM under the 1/4 panel to straighten it and spread the load some

And then I moved on to rewelding the ram assist mounts.

And got the front diff all filled with gear oil and it’s ready for a shake down run. Then I moved onto changing out a main leaf because I knew it was cracked when I put it in.

Turns out it was broken as hell, but new one swapped out without having the center pin spin or anything crazy. Honestly after rebuilding the front CV head yesterday I was waiting for Murphy to show up.

I try not to cut/grind/hammer/use impacts past 9:30/10 because I’ve got neighbors with younger kids. I know they are dealing with a shit storm I get a chance to laugh at it everyday.

I’ve got these fancy perches I need to weld on after I cut these off, I’ll probably try to push the rear axle back another inch or so. Figured why not and it’ll center the tire in the wheelwell better. Hopefully I’ll get around to putting the pinion guard and diff cover on tomorrow after I set the pinion angle with the new perches. If I can go around a friends path tomorrow night and test out a few things I’ll just be packing tools/parts and getting read to hit the highway on Friday to head to uwharrie for the weekend. Really not expecting to have any issues wheeling but only slightly worried about making it there and back. I’ve put a little over 550 miles on it the last few weeks. Guess the adventure starts in a few days.

 

[rparis05]

Temporary rear bumper? I might be interested in it down the road if you let it go.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Temporary rear bumper? I might be interested in it down the road if you let it go.

Yeah it’s 1.5x.120 wall DOM, I’d rather do 1.75x.188 wall just because I’m worried this heavy bitch will dimple that tube plus I plan on doing the cage out of 1.75x.120 wall so I want it all to flow.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Perches are on, pinion angle is better, feels a lot more solid out back without that main leaf being broken. So now off to do the diff covers and changing out the printed circuit board.

Really thinking of raising my trans/tcase to help out the front driveline angle. Makes me want to call up ECGS and get a high pinion housing to GM d60 specs. I’m gonna pull the shaft and clearance the flange and CV head a little if I can help it by leveling out the trans/tcase.

 

[Chris_Keziah]

Totally going to borrow the idea of using a super duty driveshaft, new on ebay is ~$240 which ain't bad at all for 1350CV/1350 for the money. Even if it needs to be shortened.

Looks like it's coming together fairly well.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Took it around a friends path, everything seemed to work fine besides one of the hubs, but I got it working and just need to trim fenders now. Gotta get my spare tire seated on the bead and then pack it up and get read to head to uwharrie tomorrow. I’m nervous as shit about the drive, but it’s gonna be an adventure I’m sure, lol.

If you’re out at uwharrie and see me, stop by and say hey. If it’s around the camp fire I might have some venison steaks and mahi mahi leftovers.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Well so far so good. Had a charging issue on the way so a parking lot alternator change and then found a loose terminal on my charging wire.

Oh and some how on sawmill I found the door.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Oh and the anti wrap perches seem to be working pretty good but also it’s cutting timing hard during full throttle so I can’t really test the send it method.

Also got the 13 bolt cover on, unfortunately didn’t have the time to shave it completely.

I also don’t think I could have made this clearance any closer without the tailgate touching with my 170lb ass on it.

 

[Croatan_Kid]

Check the air intake temps. It'll pull timing if it's sucking in hot air.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Check the air intake temps. It'll pull timing if it's sucking in hot air.

They were only 95-105 degrees, so I really need to get a scanner to see what my knock sensor is doing.

 

[Croatan_Kid]

Probably need to desensitize them.

Although, even when my AIT table was scaled wrong, I couldn't tell much of a difference in the way it ran. You think there might be a fuel pressure issue?

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Probably need to desensitize them.

Although, even when my AIT table was scaled wrong, I couldn't tell much of a difference in the way it ran. You think there might be a fuel pressure issue?

Got home just a little bit ago, I’ve got a rich code for both banks. I’m gonna pull the plugs see if they are fouled out and also check my fuel pressure. It was breaking up bad with any load on it. I know the knock sensor harness is old. The FPR is brand new from oriellys, the plugs were new, injectors, MAF, coils, wires, and injector harnesses. It’s really making me feel like I need to get this local dude to check the tune.

And AIT table?

 

[Croatan_Kid]

Air Intake Temperature. For some reason mine got thrown off and it thought it was sucking in 140* air.

I can look through whatever you need as far as the computer is concerned, if you want.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

This was on the way home, if I get into the throttle it cuts timing hard, goes rich.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

My girlfriend said these are the ones I took with her camera. I needed something to look at to see if everything cleared well. I forgot to see how much uptravel I had left to go with that driverside tire being stuffed.

This is how I plan on sectioning my front fenders. Hopefully I don’t have to go crazy cutting to clear everything.