JK and K5 build threads Bc you can never have too many toys

Had a datalogging session with my tuner yesterday. I’m only getting 76-77% throttle... need to take some slack out of the throttle cable, and my MAFS needs to be recalibrated. It’s an aftermarket one so no biggie. When I get back from Florida next month I’ll get it tuned and then start the thrash to get ready for a July wheeling trip. Really hoping I can get a lot of the little stuff done and some rocker protection so I won’t crumple it too bad. If I can get my list done I’ve mentioned tagging along with Jimmy to Harlan. But worse case Potts Mountain or Gulches mid July. Never wheeled any of those places so should be interesting.

Another question I’ve got I’m sure a few people may be able to answer, here is what my slip spline looks like

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He’s at almost full droop.
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I’m guessing still 2-3” of spline engagement, I’m debating on going with a longer slip spline but not sure if that is plenty or not.
 
Isn't the general rule, 2x the diameter in engagement is sufficient?

No clue but it’s a 16 spline 1.5” slip spline so I guess 3” is plenty.
 
Had a datalogging session with my tuner yesterday. I’m only getting 76-77% throttle... need to take some slack out of the throttle cable, and my MAFS needs to be recalibrated. It’s an aftermarket one so no biggie. When I get back from Florida next month I’ll get it tuned and then start the thrash to get ready for a July wheeling trip. Really hoping I can get a lot of the little stuff done and some rocker protection so I won’t crumple it too bad. If I can get my list done I’ve mentioned tagging along with Jimmy to Harlan. But worse case Potts Mountain or Gulches mid July. Never wheeled any of those places so should be interesting.

Another question I’ve got I’m sure a few people may be able to answer, here is what my slip spline looks like

c00b9d4c7fb662cd537a6e0c0d8d44f9.jpg


He’s at almost full droop.
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I’m guessing still 2-3” of spline engagement, I’m debating on going with a longer slip spline but not sure if that is plenty or not.
It will be fine like that under occasional exposure to that condition. I wouldn't want to drive around with it like that all the time, but thats plenty of shear area.
 
Melted a plug wire, got some 135 degree boot ones and put a new set of plugs in it. My PCV valve has gone out so I’ll be replacing that sometime this week. still need to weld in a bung for the tuner to put his wide band on it. Put in my order for 40 foot of 1.5x.120, 20 foot of 1.75x .120 wall for the shock hoops, 20 foot of 1.75x .188 wall for the sliders and rear bumper I want to build, and 20ft 2x2 11ga to have everything to tie my 2x6 rockers into the frame. I know I won’t use all of it, but it’s nice having extra in the garage for random projects that pop up.

I’ve got to pull a 465/208 combo out of a truck, and I’ve heavily been debating on swapping that 208 in the k5 for a lower crawl ratio (52:1 with the 205 verses 71:1 with the 208). So I’m on the hunt for a dodge/jeep fixed yoke 208 to swap case halves and output shafts to make a SYE for a Chevy 208. Think I’ve found one not to far from the house but gonna see if I can find one cheaper. Hoping this will get me by till I can build my crawlbox/205 doubler up. And I’m probably going to throw a lunch box locker in the front and debating on doing a Detroit/grizzly/torq pro locker out back. Worse case I’ll sell the rear locker and put it towards an ARB.

Ordered up a battery box, picked up various wiring stuff I need to add a fuse panel under the hood so I can run my electric fans off the PCM. And getting a quote on some some 20ga aluminum to build inner fenders for it and a fan shroud. Also got a cool looking billet coolant overflow tank. Hoping September/October I can take it wheeling after I finish the mini boat sides and build a belly pan. I want to do aluminum for the skids just for the weight factor plus it’ll be bling as fuck.

I’m looking to buy a 30” or so sheet metal brake and a bead roller here soon so reading up on those as much as I can right now. I haven’t done much sheet metal work and never bead rolling but it looks fun and I enjoy the challenge.
 
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I’ve got a ‘05 SD60 and a ‘88 14 bolt. I’ve contemplated buying a newer rear with disc already. However, I’ve got a truss for a JK44 front axle already. Kind of don’t want to weld it on a new housing because then it limits who can use the axle for a swap. Keeps your market broad. I had thought about regearing them, truss, bling shafts, and wheeling the JK for a little bit. It’s different and works pretty decent.


It’s a how much time and money do I want to put in an axle in planning on selling. Hell, I’d sell the pair as is with the front housing smiling for $1500. Rear would need a rear shock skids bought for it. The ones off mine are different with the out-boarded shocks and not many people seem to keen on cutting on their JK frames. And the front has a high steer setup that isn’t common. The track bar mount is specific to my Jeep as well. That’s why I figured new housing, swap the guts over, probably new bearings, and post them up for sale for $2500.

I do plan on eventually putting a stretch tank from a TJ in mine so I can get little more wheel base out back. I should be able to do a 3” stretch out back with a 1 ton axle, as is. Getting rid of the track bar and going to an 4 link would make this possible. Up front if I don’t move the steering box I can get about 2 1/2-3” which would help with the JKs weird shaped frame rails that don’t like larger tires.

I found 2.0 fox coilovers with 7/8 shafts for $291 each. I can get away with linking the front on coilovers and keeping the rear on coils and shocks easily. I’ve noticed they now have super long shank heims and enduro joints so when I do the stretch tank I can just unscrew the arm splitting the difference to gain 3-4” out back.

I’ve got a 4.88 geared Yukon locked 66” wide Ford Dana 44 that I need to buy some spindles, backing plates, and calipers so I can sell that as well, but those funds are committed to gettin the k5 a NWF integrated black box.
 
Warning long post:

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Well it’s been interesting lately. I’ve got a HP D44 I took on a trade that I had to rob some parts off of to rebuild a TJ for a guy. Sloppy work, sucked to drive down the road. However, it has made me hate taking trades to do work on people’s stuff. But anyway, I need to pick up some spindles for it so I can completely assemble it and get it ready for it’s new owner.

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Well I also picked up some GM d60 housings a little while back. I’m using the leftover guts from the k5’s dana 60, some brakes I got of a 8 lugged 10 bolt, that I originally swapped onto the 10 I already had under the k5, some spindles I’m picking up off a member on here, and then I’ve got to source some SRW ( holy $$) or I’ve considered dual rear wheel hubs. It’s literally a spare parts build to sell so I can put some new tires on the k5. I troll a local shop with my bullshit Wonton Offroad. They got so scared when I started putting stickers on stuff I built, they started stalking me, on social media. So I’m not a business,I don’t do this crap for a living I’m just trying to build my stuff using skills I’ve acquired over the years instead of coming completely out of pocket.

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Well I found the Eldorado calipers for parking brakes were back in stock, so I snagged a set for the JK and the k5. I picked up some hardware for them from 8luggedbrakes and caliper brackets from Barnes4wd, so I’ll be able to have that done on the 14 bolt for the JK. I also picked up new studs that will be the same thread pitch as the 2005 superduty front I picked up a few years ago, more on that later. I noticed Busted knuckle has their own shave cover, I might try it out as it has a better price tag than the others right now. I’ve got 5.38 gears, an install kit, along with a pinion guard for it. So besides some tone rings, rear locker, and ABS pickup mounts rear axle will be ready to mock up under my JK here soon. I haven’t decided on what type of locker I want to run out back. ARBs for a 14 bolt are stupid high priced.

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I bought a stupid duty 60 a few years ago from a truck that had a boat ramp incident. It didn’t get water in it I’ve checked, but still it’s always about the stores of things. I picked up a Jesse Haines Fab weld on crossover steering kit for it. I might have to see if I can find a slightly longer pitman arm to get it to work with the JK factory arm or I’ll have to mod the crossover arm a little bit. And I know some are probably wondering what I’ll do with the 8 on 170 pattern, I picked up a drill guide a few months or years ago to change it to 8 on 6.5 from Hired Gun Offroad. I’ve got to buy a 5.38 gear set, and I’ll likely do a mini install kit unless I see a bearing with abnormal wear. and I’m cheap so it’ll likely get a spool up front. I’ve also been tracking a ram for it on amazon I’ll likely scoop up after I get some of these projects sold. Supposedly Eaton redesigned their e-locker for the 60s and now it doesn’t monetarily unlock when changing directions. But I’m also very tempted to just run a spool.

Speaking of projects part of the deal I’m selling with the traded D44, is the Rubicon rear axle from my JK. I’ve got to regear it to 4.88 as the D44 has that as well. And it’s going to get some chromoly rear shafts since it needs to be converted to a 5 on 5.5 pattern to match the wheels I took on a trade. Now this d44 has been narrowed to 66” WMS to WMS. So the JK rear will be around 1/2” or so skinnier than then the traded d44.

That deal will pay for some Fox 2.0 coil overs for the front of the JK and everything to 4 link the rear and 3 link the front. Now I’ve just got to save up for some tires and also figure out what tires I want to run. I’ll have to drive it too and from the trail, but if I build a cage and possibly mod the frame rails like I want to, I’ll be ready to send it. I plan on rocking stock shafts until I break one, because I’ll have ball joint eliminators instead of an upper ball joint. When that time comes hopefully someone makes a u joint shaft instead of having to sell my left but for a set of RCVs. Or if they don’t I might just throw some of those 1550 jointed stock shafts in it, maybe even see if I can put full circle clips on the joints.

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I’ve got to pick up some chromoly inner shafts for the k5, and also thought about a lunch box locker for it. I only plan on running 40s, maybe 42s. I’ll eventually build a doubler for it, an I’d like to LY6 swap it with a cam. That’s just gonna always be my long term project but I’ll always try and key it on the road. The k5 I just don’t want to beat all to hell, I’ve owned it half of my life. My best friend growing up is selling his first truck and I definitely promised myself I’m keeping it. I’ll take it to uwharrie and likely some other places but if it’s a tight trail, I’ll just take the JK.
 
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Well I got an idea to build a sort of grill guard for the k5. And this morning I’ve realized for me to do it the way I want to I need to go ahead and buy at the minimum 120 ft more of 1.75x .120 wall DOM. Because I want to go ahead and build a cage for it. My end vision is to have a cage tied in front to rear for it and coilovers and links, but that’s way far into the future. However I plan to build some shock towers that I hope I can reuse for coilovers. The front axle is pushed forward for a decent approach angle and I want my front bumper/grill guard tied into the A pillars of the cage. I’ve got a pretty good idea of how I want to do the area of the half cab, but really haven’t finalized how I want to do the rear in my head. I need to save up some pennies to pick up some DOM, but I did bend up the grill guard section. Over bent the 1.75 I was sleeving it with. Grill guard is 1.5x.120 wall and the cage/shock hoops will all be 1.75x.120 wall.

Anyway here are pictures for reference:

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The hoops around the head lights are about an 1/8” outside of the grill. Hopefully I don’t use them like curb feelers, but it’s there to keep
The lights in it somewhat.
 
Ordered the brackets and what not to start the rear 4 link on the JK. I’m going single adjustable control arms with enduro joints on one end bushings on the other. I’ll end up building my own truss and upper link mounts on the axle side. Also decided to do Barnes brackets because I’m trying to hurry this up maybe have the axles under the Jeep this year..... probably won’t happen but I’ll try. I need to pick up some 2 x .250 wall DOM for my links which will be for the poly bushings too. If I figure out I hate the bushings ill change it. It’s just cheaper and can be changed easily later. I’ll have to move a bunch of stuff around under the hood, but I’m planning on picking up more DOM to build some shock hoops/engine cage. Hopefully I can get the axles under this fall/winter and be ready to do a shake down run in the spring. Will it happen? Hell if I know. My agenda this fall is getting pretty stacked with my own projects, which is good. K5 will be smaller weekend projects, the JK is gonna be on jack stands for a hot min.
 
You gonna stretch the Jeep when you 4 link it?

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Yep, 2-3” until I buy a stretch TJ tank to make it about 6-7” maybe more depends on which tank I go with.
 
I’m aware you can set one up to not have as much fumes by venting it and even hooking up your evap stuff. But my experiences have always been, you still get a hint of fumes with a cell mounted in the back. I’ve already got it setup for a TJ tank, raised the floor and everything to keep it all nice and tucked up. It’s sooo much easier to just plug in the fuel pump, hose, evap hoses, and bolt a skid plate on to use stretch TJ tank in. I get to keep plenty of space in the back of tub. Going to a cell would most likely make me end up redoing a bunch of stuff and I’d rather not.
 
One thing I love about living in eastern NC. You can order from Barnes4wd or ECGS and standard shipping is pretty much over night. I ordered the 4 link stuff at noon yesterday. FedEx was at my house at 7am this morning. FedEx guy is pretty cool always chats about the stuff I’m working on.

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Hopefully next week I can start on cutting everything out and setting up the rear suspension.
 
One thing I love about living in eastern NC. You can order from Barnes4wd or ECGS and standard shipping is pretty much over night. I ordered the 4 link stuff at noon yesterday. FedEx was at my house at 7am this morning. FedEx guy is pretty cool always chats about the stuff I’m working on.

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Hopefully next week I can start on cutting everything out and setting up the rear suspension.

Barnes4wd for the win. Have to pull for the local guys over ruffstuff every time!


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Barnes4wd for the win. Have to pull for the local guys over ruffstuff every time!


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They are competitively priced and often Barnes has some products that are better suited to my needs than Ruffstuff. I used Ruffstuff, Poly/Synergy, and WFO a lot when I was station on the west coast and I’ve had nothing but great experiences from them. And even now they have some stuff I order from them.

Edit: I met Dan at the offroad expo in Cali once and we had a pretty good convo about some concepts and setups. Thought he was a pretty cool dude. And some how I ran into Trevor from WFO Concepts sister in-law when I was dating a chick from Maryland and visiting her family. Home girl flagged me down in the grocery store and sent a pic of my hoodie too him. Was a little weird but small world.
 
Pic dump of a Jeep I went over for a friend. Been a long dragged out rebuild trying to fix how it was put together. Turns out it was a 20 year old kid that put it together and I’ve thought about reaching out to him and be like so here’s what needed to be changed. But it’s kind of pompous ass off myself to do that. Brackets were breaking off, stuff was poorly welded, and a lot of geometry/alignment issues.

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Had to relocate the evap canister to get clearance to stuff the 37s.

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Also got to do a small project with my bender I put together a few months ago. I normally just hook some jumper cables up to the k5 and it really doesn’t use that many amps bending 1.5 x .120 wall or 1.75 x .120 wall. It also bends pretty damn quick. Next time @nc_jk_crawler is over I’ll get him to record how fast it’ll bend a 90. Also you can easily jog it down to just a degree or so.

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New track bar mounts

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Also went to a legit crossover setup. Did a stabilizer mount off the diff cover. Really does drive pretty damn good for a short arm TJ.

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And I really do love putting dimple dies in stuff

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And I enjoy cutting holes in people stuff. Mainly Bc it scares the crap out of them

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@WARRIORWELDING at least it’s better than some turd pics huh?
 
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Pic dump of a Jeep I went over for a friend. Been a long dragged out rebuild trying to fix how it was put together. Turns out it was a 20 year old kid that put it together and I’ve thought about reaching out to him and be like so here’s what needed to be changed. But it’s kind of pompous ass off myself to do that. Brackets were breaking off, stuff was poorly welded, and a lot of geometry/alignment issues.

5cc4049fdb131b699dd08f360dd27915.jpg


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Had to relocate the evap canister to get clearance to stuff the 37s.

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Also got to do a small project with my bender I put together a few months ago. I normally just hook some jumper cables up to the k5 and it really doesn’t use that many amps bending 1.5 x .120 wall or 1.75 x .120 wall. It also bends pretty damn quick. Next time @nc_jk_crawler is over I’ll get him to record how fast it’ll bend a 90. Also you can easily jog it down to just a degree or so.

cdb480a2f285c063a4ecaa9c75bfa81a.jpg


New track bar mounts

658e065d5b673c99c33f7b1b5d2ec715.jpg


Also went to a legit crossover setup. Did a stabilizer mount off the diff cover. Really does drive pretty damn good for a short arm TJ.

5a9c12fc0b755e7fdda272de82f9423c.jpg


And I really do love putting dimple dies in stuff

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And I enjoy cutting holes in people stuff. Mainly Bc it scares the crap out of them

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1c35183f623af2f80345e26b5aa67a50.jpg



@WARRIORWELDING at least it’s better than some turd pics huh?
Amen, and nice work!
 
Not much done in the garage, I’ve got a HP Dana 44 I’m putting together for a dude, along with regearing the JK’s rear axle and new shafts. Should be putting my JK in the garage tomorrow and start tearing it apart to start the wonton swap. But I’ve still got a lot to do to the k5. Without a doubt going to the Veterans Day run, and trying to make a trip with my club oct 4th weekend to uwharrie for shake down numbro dose for the k5.

Anyway swapped out the caster wheels on my axle stand for something a little better than 20 year old tool box wheels from the 1st tool box I purchased when I was 12.

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Got these off amazon, rated a one big girl each (300lbs) so should be able to support what ever axle I throw up on my axle stand. Soon it’ll be the 14 bolt for the back of the JK that I’ll do rear disc using eldorado calipers on. Scored those a few weeks ago when they became available again.

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Parts for the axles

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