Killer Weldz Thread

[stinkbomb]

Nice shop in the background. Where do you work?


Sent from the MarsFab Off Road mobile response unit.

ECGS, after a year, I finally built this to organize my little fab laboratory. Moved machines and what not, doesn't look like a massive cluster fawk anymore. Unoccupied space in corners is now being used, which opened up the middle a ton.


Holds a 60, keeps all my bins organized and I can still run production of parts, without tying up the jig table


Photos of the build here:
http://s895.photobucket.com/user/kouperstein2/library/ECGS fab bench

 

[MarsFab]

Oh duh! You're Nick lol. I didn't realize "stinkbomb" was your name on here. I'm an idiot!


Sent from the MarsFab Off Road mobile response unit.

 

[stinkbomb]

Oh duh! You're Nick lol. I didn't realize "stinkbomb" was your name on here. I'm an idiot!


Sent from the MarsFab Off Road mobile response unit.

Hahaha it's ok, it's Saturday.

 

[WARRIORWELDING]

by the looks of that table you and Mud have been busy!

 

[stinkbomb]

by the looks of that table you and Mud have been busy!

Haha Mud(Scott) is the man. Nothing but awesome things to say about him. I can give him a verbal blueprint with a few measurements and be ships exactly what I need. If you ever need custom brackets, don't hesitate to call him, worth every penny.

 

[Jake.]

Here is some stuff from work

Miller Bobcat - 1/8 7018

Now I have limited experience with GMAW, mostly body work and sheet metal stuff. But I just picked up a 75/25 cylinder today for my hobart machine. Here is a test piece I was messing around with today.

Any tips? I know I need to run a little further before I stop/start.

 

[MarsFab]

Looks pretty good for just starting out with the mig. Looks like you may have had a little too much heat and a little to low on the wire speed. But all in all I'd call it a successful bead. Once you get the voltage and wire speed dialed in you'll loose a lot of the spatter you're getting. Equally important is material prep. Try making that same weld with the same settings but grind all the mill scale and pitting off of it first and it'll look even better.

When you get the settings dialed in to the point that there's little to no spatter you can focus on tightening up the edges. In my welding classes I tell guys to imagine that there are margins on either side of the weld just like notebook paper. You want to weld all the way to those margins without going outside them. The more you practice that the more you'll get used to doing them all the same. It'll become easier and easier to hide where you start and stop because the welds will be more consistent. Don't be afraid to do a practice pass on the metal without actually pulling the trigger that way you can be sure your hand can actually travel the full range of where you want to go before actually burning it in only to find you can't reach or your gun angle gets way outta wack. Too steep will cause lots of spatter to blast off the front edge of the puddle too.

 

[Croatan_Kid]

We have some pieces at work (40ft+ shipping container spreaders) that get thousands of feet of weld on them. They mount them on a bit rotary stand and get to work. All of our welds have to be horizontal. It's amazing to me though, they can stand up and free hand 10 ft sections and it looks like someone did it with a straight edge. I'll have to see if I can get some pics of some of this stuff.

 

[MarsFab]

 

[MarsFab]

I haven't been on the forum hardly at all in the last couple months other than to answer pm's and what not. I was really hoping to see that SOMEBODY had kept this thread alive! I guess not smh.
Here's a few of some stuff I've been working on lately.

Xj long arm crossmember

TJ fuel cell that uses the stock sender/pump unit.

Speaker boxes

 

[hurt4x4]

This may be a stupid question, but why can I not get my welds to have the "stack of dimes look"?. All of my welds come out more flat with a V pattern.

Here is a piece I was messing around with at work.

 

[Welding Waldo]

Looks to be that your wire feed needs to be turned up a bit or your heat down and that will round your weld out a little bit. But your travel speed is too fast forming the "V" shape instead of the "C" shape, slow down a bit and don't outrun the puddle and you'll have a decent looking weld.

 

[MarsFab]

There is a very fine line between making a strong well penetrated stack of dimes and just a pile of toothpaste on the metal that looks like dimes

To get your weld to look like a stack of buttons you have to dial back the voltage till you're able to slow way down and shape the puddle with gun English. Too low lays it on top and too hot the puddle flows too much and looses the shape. Try leaving your wire speed where it's at and go down a volt or one click of the amperage knob and lay the same bead but do a lowercase cursive e pattern strung together and post pics.

 

[Jeff B]

This may be a stupid question, but why can I not get my welds to have the "stack of dimes look"?. All of my welds come out more flat with a V pattern.

Here is a piece I was messing around with at work.

View attachment 149827

There is nothing wrong with this weld. I would trust it anyday over dime on dime look...

 

[hurt4x4]

There is a very fine line between making a strong well penetrated stack of dimes and just a pile of toothpaste on the metal that looks like dimes

To get your weld to look like a stack of buttons you have to dial back the voltage till you're able to slow way down and shape the puddle with gun English. Too low lays it on top and too hot the puddle flows too much and looses the shape. Try leaving your wire speed where it's at and go down a volt or one click of the amperage knob and lay the same bead but do a lowercase cursive e pattern strung together and post pics.

Thanks for the tips. Ill try it out and report back. Hopefully Ill get around to taking some welding classes soon and learn some more.
I know looks aren't everything in a weld, but your welds look like artwork.

 

[Jake.]

You've you to work the gun to get a pattern. But you won't get a stack of dimes without triggering or using a TIG machine

 

[CThurmond]

Guessing triggering means pumping the trigger after each e?

 

[Jake.]

Yes it is imitating a pulse MIG machine. I am going to start welding up my XJ bumper soon. I will be sure to take plenty of pics.

 

[MarsFab]

You've you to work the gun to get a pattern. But you won't get a stack of dimes without triggering or using a TIG machine

Not true. I don't trigger a single weld.
This is one smooth pass. Gun English and proper settings per material are what it takes.

 

[MarsFab]

Thanks for the tips. Ill try it out and report back. Hopefully Ill get around to taking some welding classes soon and learn some more.
I know looks aren't everything in a weld, but your welds look like artwork.

Thanks man. Lots of practice!

 

[BRUISER]

Not as pretty as others but not bad for a weekend welder

no stopping

 

[Welding Waldo]

Its all about the right parameters and getting your speed down pat and you'll have welds looking as good as MarsFab's welds. And like he said practice practice practice. Don't give up even of you have a few bad welds, change your settings or even your nozzle angle and keep on getting it.

 

[Jake.]

Not true. I don't trigger a single weld.
This is one smooth pass. Gun English and proper settings per material are what it takes.
View attachment 149873

Sorry I was under the impression that you were tig-ing most of your material.

 

[WARRIORWELDING]

There is nothing wrong with this weld. I would trust it anyday over dime on dime look...

Spot on. This weld would pass a destructive or x-ray test long before most others. With a little less undercut on the bead profile from the heat, I'd say you couldn't ask for better. But for most any stresses a rig will see most of the beautifully spaced ripples will do just fine. But its a misleading technique easily messed up.

 

[MarsFab]

No prob man. A lot of what I've posted in this thread is TIG welded.