Time to build a shop of my own

I know we talked about this at lunch, but if you decided red iron I can give you the guy we buy from and the erector that we use, actually I can give you two for both to compare pricing.

Also C&L has a couple of those gas heaters that you hang from the ceiling let me know if you wAnt me to get a price


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2011 price on my shop was just under $15 a foot for 24x32x12 with a 18x10 garage door, a man door, and 3 windows. Siding to match the house, 30 year architectural shingles to match house, all stick built cut into the slope with concrete block below grade. Price includes the garage door opener I supplied, all the electrical materials that I wired myself and grading. 3 years before when I built my house they wanted $40 k to build what I have so timing is everything IMO.

@Jody Treadway I know you can do a lot in a somewhat small shop but I don’t think anyone has ever said I wish my shop was smaller. Get it on paper, layouts are important for efficient work spaces and flow. Be sure to place doors so you can easily get RV and loaded trailers in and out. Just my.02
 
obullfish said:
2011 price on my shop was just under $15 a foot for 24x32x12 with a 18x10 garage door, a man door, and 3 windows. Siding to match the house, 30 year architectural shingles to match house, all stick built cut into the slope with concrete block below grade. Price includes the garage door opener I supplied, all the electrical materials that I wired myself and grading. 3 years before when I built my house they wanted $40 k to build what I have so timing is everything IMO.

@Jody Treadway I know you can do a lot in a somewhat small shop but I don’t think anyone has ever said I wish my shop was smaller. Get it on paper, layouts are important for efficient work spaces and flow. Be sure to place doors so you can easily get RV and loaded trailers in and out. Just my.02
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Right now I rent 1500 sq/ft and split half another to store our camper.
2k is the minimum I'll build. I want 40' depth so I can pull truck, trailer/rig in or truck a d camper in.
I appreciate the info bud.
 
Jody Treadway said:
Definitely do not want that. This will be a long term property and I want a shop of my own. We live in our "forever" home at this point. So I am ready to drop the coin on my dream shop. Somewhere to keep our camper, my rig, my tow rig and still have room for projects. I'm a buy once, cry once kind of guy (but on a budget).
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Sounds like you are going to fill it up up fast. Go big or go home! Plan for future expansion and ways to move things in and out with ease. Who want's to move 4 rigs to be able to weld on one?
 
Jody Treadway said:
Right now I rent 1500 sq/ft and split half another to store our camper.
2k is the minimum I'll build. I want 40' depth so I can pull truck, trailer/rig in or truck a d camper in.
I appreciate the info bud.
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Unless you have a 12 foot tilt Bed Gooseneck Trailer, you're gonna want more than 40ft to accomplish that. Mine is 34ft, and with just a crew cab shortbed truck, it feels very crowded.
 
Jody Treadway said:
Right now I rent 1500 sq/ft and split half another to store our camper.
2k is the minimum I'll build. I want 40' depth so I can pull truck, trailer/rig in or truck a d camper in.
I appreciate the info bud.
Click to expand...

Not sure how you are thinking about orienting things, but I originally planned to put my rollup doors on the long sides, not the ends. It's cheaper to do them on the ends.

The red iron buildings (at least the one I got) uses diagonal cable bracing between the columns on each side.. If you put a roll up door on the side, it takes more steel and reinforcement to take place of the cables. IIRC, it was a 2-3k difference to move them to the ends.
 
Pad graded for 20 feet more expansion, 40 by 40 seventeen foot at gutters. Two 14 by 14 doors. Two man doors. One 48 inch square framed trimmed opening for exhaust fan. Insulated everywhere. Two color exterior because of wainscoat(term?). Erection and concrete all paid with building. Pad required large amounts of fill, driveway and stone included in his cost. Two 200 amp boxes fully wired with high bay led lights. 6 welding outlets and probably double that in quad boxes for 110. Exhaust fan and front 20 foot pad.........all I have done is cut checks and work to make payments. Hovering at 70k.

Hindsight is twenty twenty, but I don't know how or where I would have done things different. I'm not well connected or a great deal maker, nor proficient in construction trades.

All I got other than my previous rent well covers the left over cost as I paid for everything but the building and erection, minus the down payment as I went.
 
When we built our work shop 5yrs ago it was 70k. 50x50 insulates, single slope roof, red iron. 16ft on high side w one 10x14 insulated roll up and 1 walk door. 6" pad and minimal electrical.

I have been pricing a shop for myself and here lately stick built is looking to be close if not cheaper than red iron. My dad's shop is 30x40 stick built with insulation in the ceiling and none in the walls and he has no problem heating it well past comfortable with a home built wood heater.
 
Not exactly what you're looking to build but I'm envious of some of the pricing being thrown out here compared to my shop. I was definitely in the "buy once....cry once" situation and opted to have mine built turn key. It was stick built with 12' ceilings, 18x10 garage door, 8' man door, 4 side windows, fully insulated (doors, walls, ceiling), all electrical (many 120v & several 220v), 36" exhaust fan, LEd lights, slab was poured thicker for where I hope to someday put my 2-post lift, full open span 2nd floor with stairs. Exterior was matched to the house with same siding, stone work, shingles etc. and had the driveway extended to tie into the new shop. I still smile sometimes when I go out to the shop but it cost me. I was pushing near 60/sqft. Like a few other have mentioned I also found it hard to find someone to actually build it, luckily I finally had a builder of a friend do mine otherwise who knows. I was told people dislike working in Orange county ?? who knew, I certainly didn't until trying to hire someone.
 
LT1JEEP said:
I built a 50'X56' about 15 years ago ky steel truss building it cost $50,000.00 then but I have 3 bay doors 2 on one end and 1 on the other so I can get air through in the summer months with a bathroom and office. I like my set up my floors are 6 to 8 in thick so I can pull heavy equipment in to work on when needed. It is insulated and the cost to heat it in the winter is about $1000.00 a winter to heat it with propane we are in there about 12 to 16 hours a day.
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I'm interested in what type of propane heat you are running? Wall mount furnace maybe? BTU or size? Thermostat regulated?
 
Mac5005 said:
What about doing pex loop in the slab for radiant heating?

Insulated under the slab?

lp/ng water heater with circulator pump? Doubles for warm water for washing the pups.
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Budget wise, that'll probably not happen.
Once I get some numbers over the next few weeks, I'll know what options are feasible
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
I'm interested in what type of propane heat you are running? Wall mount furnace maybe? BTU or size? Thermostat regulated?
Click to expand...

I am not who you quoted, but I will chime in. I have a 90k btu furnace, wall mounted on a stand, and it heats my 40x60 very well. It is on a thermostat that I keep on 45 when I am not there. I kick it up to 60–65 when I go to the shop and it takes about 20 minutes to warm it up. I used about 100 gallons of propane last winter.

My dad is a HVAC guy, he removed the furnace from a house trailer when he put a heat pump in.
 
I'm not sure on the btu's on the furnace I will check and let you know on that. it is one that hangs I know is a 1980 model heater and run's on 110 voltage. I got it used from our local recue squad when the put new ones in about 15 years ago. My garage has insulated doors but half of the doors are single pane glass. I got them from the city fire department when tore their fire station down to build a new one.
 
Mac5005 said:
What about doing pex loop in the slab for radiant heating?

Insulated under the slab?

lp/ng water heater with circulator pump? Doubles for warm water for washing the pups.
Click to expand...
If done properly in floor radiant can be incredibly efficient. My house I owned in Michigan had infloor in the basement (3/4 sunk with a walk out door on the back wall) The floor and walls were poured as one pour and the loops went 2’ up the walls. In the deepest part of the winter the furnace barely kicked on for the main floor living area.
 
I wanted to do a radiant slab, but I didn’t know enough about it or how I might change my shop around, so I went without it. If I ever build another shop I might consider it.

My shop is insulated pretty well, so I am happy with what I have. Mostly happy to just have a place of my own.
 
Mac5005 said:
What about doing pex loop in the slab for radiant heating?

Insulated under the slab?

lp/ng water heater with circulator pump? Doubles for warm water for washing the pups.
Click to expand...

I would not want to run a lp water heater for in slab heat. When my hw heater was installed the recirculator was left on. It ran every however minutes to keep the loop warm. F that. It chewed through the gas that first month. I capped the loop and cut the circulator off. Gas bill looked much better the next month.
 
LT1JEEP said:
I'm not sure on the btu's on the furnace I will check and let you know on that. it is one that hangs I know is a 1980 model heater and run's on 110 voltage. I got it used from our local recue squad when the put new ones in about 15 years ago. My garage has insulated doors but half of the doors are single pane glass. I got them from the city fire department when tore their fire station down to build a new one.
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Shop style.
am not who you quoted, but I will chime in. I have a 90k btu furnace, wall mounted on a stand, and it heats my 40x60 very well. It is on a thermostat that I keep on 45 when I am not there. I kick it up to 60–65 when I go to the shop and it takes about 20 minutes to warm it up. I used about 100 gallons of propane last winter.

My dad is a HVAC guy, he removed the furnace from a house trailer when he put a heat pump in.

Home model.

Hmmm pros and cons?
Sorry for the highjack @Jody Treadway
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
Shop style.
am not who you quoted, but I will chime in. I have a 90k btu furnace, wall mounted on a stand, and it heats my 40x60 very well. It is on a thermostat that I keep on 45 when I am not there. I kick it up to 60–65 when I go to the shop and it takes about 20 minutes to warm it up. I used about 100 gallons of propane last winter.

My dad is a HVAC guy, he removed the furnace from a house trailer when he put a heat pump in.

Home model.

Hmmm pros and cons?
Sorry for the highjack @Jody Treadway
Click to expand...
Information is information my friend!
 
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I had my shop built 2 years ago. Turn key, although I contracted the concrete, building and construction, and electrical separately.
Mine is 40’x60’, 14’ walls and 5:12 roof pitch.
2 roll up doors and a man door on the front, and a roll up door on the back.
I had the concrete done by a family friend and got a screaming deal. Slab is thickened down the middle for lifts. ~$10k for grading and monolithic slab
The building was engineered by ARCO, to my wants and specs. It is built to commercial code, and way over engineered for weather. ARCO recommended and scheduled a contractor to receive the materials and put it up. 6” insulation on the ceiling and 4” on the walls. ~$26k for the building and ~$11k for construction.
I contracted an electrician for panel, wiring, LED lights and outlets, etc. I went super basic and simple to save money. ~$6k
WARNING: no matter what size you go with, it will fill up quick! I went bigger than I thought I wanted, and it got full seemingly overnight. Budget constraints are one thing, but go with the biggest you can afford. I’m looking into other options for small parts storage now, and it’s only been 2 years.
If you’ve got more specific questions, you’re welcome to give me a shout. I think ARCO has a referral program that will save you some money, and I’ll get a referral fee. You’re also welcome to come check it out in person if you want to make the trip up.
 
What do y'all think about a single wide-open space, vs. divided up into rooms or sections?

For my 42x60, I made three areas....20x20 welding room (so I don't have to worry about all the combustibles laying everywhere in the shop), an RV parking room to keep shop dust away (17'x40') (with room for pallet racking and shelving down each side), and the main area 60'L x 20-24''wide. Each area has a roll up door (2 for the large area), and are connected to main with 6' wide double entry doors. Eventually, 1/2 or so of the main area will have a second floor/storage loft/mezzanine with about a 9-10' ceiling height off the concrete.
 
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