We Bought a RV Clark!! Oh no! Rebuild thread

shawn said:
Mine doesn't have a loop.

I'd recommend adding a small pressure tank if you have the opportunity. It'll act link a hammer arrestor when the pump kicks on, and will hold a small amount of water to keep the pump from kicking on so much.
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Yep! I've learned alot since this was first brought to my attention. ;)
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Dylan W. said:
Yep! I've learned alot since this was first brought to my attention. ;) View attachment 296807
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Not bad. That's cheaper than what you'd get at Lowes.

Also, I figured out what Rob was talking about with the loop (maybe?). There's some evidence that using a flex hose (like a toilet tank hose) on the pump inlet/outlet helps to isolate pump vibrations. Also, mount it on something flexible.
 
shawn said:
Not bad. That's cheaper than what you'd get at Lowes.

Also, I figured out what Rob was talking about with the loop (maybe?). There's some evidence that using a flex hose (like a toilet tank hose) on the pump inlet/outlet helps to isolate pump vibrations. Also, mount it on something flexible.
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Right. It’s a cheaper and less effective version of an accumulator tank. Tanks are preferred. I have both on the RV but I feel the flexible loop is more for isolation of the pump from hard lines than it is for pulsation.

Accumulator tank is a better option IMO
 
Back wall.

Building the back wall won't be as simple as the side walls.(they only had windows to worry about.) The back wall has a lot more going on in there.
It will have 2 tail lights, 1 window, 1 compartment door, 5 clearance lights, and bracing for the ladder to attach too. Oh yeah, liscense plate holder and tag lights will need extra bracing for attachment points too.

Ok here we go!

This is a treated 2x4. It is going to be my rear wall baseplate.
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Pre drilled some holes and attached some decent lags through the rear, steel floor frame. Its stout.
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Final shaping of a 1/4 inch notch. The notch let's my luan sit flush with the corner blocks, then the outside skin (frp ) can fit and lay flat across all of it. No bumps.
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@Dylan W. gotta make sure you get your shit straight :D I was a little late with that one from all the previous poop talk, but it's still worth mentioning.
 
Falko said:
I was going more for the 1998 pre-meme gif which sat atop the hierarchy of exclamatory statements used to denote laughter through text.

Ha.
Hah.
Lol.
Lmao.
Roflmao.
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I was laughing at your evaluation ofthe side walls being 'simple'
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Lol. I caught on to why you said it, I just couldnt make out the acronym.

Now I know entirely too much about it.Go to YouTube and see all the crazy people roflcoptering in all kind of places. o_O

But seriously...back wall 10x more complex than side walls.
 
Then it was foam board and glue time.I made measurements and we cut foam board for a while.
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My cutest helper showed back up!!
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But she did not see this...
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But she did help do this!
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All of the studs are glued and have either been stapled, or screwed through the back of the luan. Frp will cover all.
And that is why the back wall was more complex. No biggie, just git er did.
 
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Absolutely amazing! You should rent this thing out, it could go for a 5 star accommodation!

Question, you think you have added weight from the original construction ?
 
BigClay said:
Absolutely amazing! You should rent this thing out, it could go for a 5 star accommodation!

Question, you think you have added weight from the original construction ?
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No. I dont think I have added any weight. Lvt floors weight more, I added paint, and maybe 10 lbs more of glue, but I have removed furnace, old fridge(more to come later on that) and the old generator will be gone. So, I've removed a couple hundred pounds or more. We are talking factory weight here.

If we wanna get technical, I've probably removed over 100 lbs of moisture:)
 
So on the note of the genset, my 5er has a built in 8k. Honestly, I really think in your situation eliminating a built in and putting a good 5-7k on a hitch mounted carrier would be the way to go; use it for all sorts of other things and when you go camp off the grid it goes with you. Mine is almost wasted because 99.9% of the time when I camp I’m on shore power and it just sits there. Sure I fire it up just to exercise it but other than that I don’t use it. Seems like something you could absolutely do away with to free up some storage space and still be good to go.
 
Only thing with deleting the generator is you can't run the AC when you're on the road. The AC in the van will blow cold air in your face if you're in the cab, but that's all.

It also limits your options on the refrigerator (sounds like he's ditching the propane setup).
 
What Shawn said. If you ditch propane and the genset, are you going to have a fridge? Hoe about AC for the drive or even if you are off the grid?
 
My plan is to keep propane on the stove and water heater only.

I'm going with a simple 110 fridge/freezer. Dual house battery set up. So should be able to cool food while driving.

I have a new 3500 predator. It's super quiet. I also have a rear hitch basket, and a place for it on the trailer tongue. It should weigh alot less than the onan.

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Who's to say a fellow couldnt run his rooftop a/c unit, that is wired to this generatior, which is traveling out back..all while rolling thru MERICA!
I may or may not have built in capabilities, via pre wired disconnects.:cool:

I mean, its a bit crude, but itll work right?
 
If it had an on-board generator, it probably had an ATS. You can just pull wires from the generator side of the ATS back to the bumper or wherever.

Run time on the on-board will be better, and it might be a little quieter and more convenient, but what you're proposing should work.

I can't speak to the fridge on the inverter. That's more or less what newer motorhomes are doing, but they have a lot more house battery than you.
 
shawn said:
If it had an on-board generator, it probably had an ATS. You can just pull wires from the generator side of the ATS back to the bumper or wherever.

Run time on the on-board will be better, and it might be a little quieter and more convenient, but what you're proposing should work.

I can't speak to the fridge on the inverter. That's more or less what newer motorhomes are doing, but they have a lot more house battery than you.
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I doubt we will ever drive it in a long enough line, that we burn a complete tank of fuel through generator. Meaning , we wont need refueling between stops. But idk..


Theres a 110 outlet behind fridge already. All connects to the house batteries and of course, shore power.

Am I correct in thinking that those batteries will be simultaneously charging and powering fridge etc..while driving? If so, that"ll work right?

Any input appreciated
 
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