We Bought a RV Clark!! Oh no! Rebuild thread

Dylan W. said:
I doubt we will ever drive it in a long enough line, that we burn a complete tank of fuel through generator. Meaning , we wont need refueling between stops. But idk..
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I was talking about running it all day or overnight. When it's warm, we'll run our AC during the day, and shut it off around 10 or 11 (once it cools off).
 
House batteries do not charge with the engine running. They are separated from the chassis battery for a reason. The house batteries only charge when the gen is running or hooked to shore power. Unless you hook up some solar charging capabilities.
 
Where are your shore power connections? Run the external genset wired into the shore power plug. Should be a 30 amp. Will keep the fridge and AC going while in route.
 
skyhighZJ said:
Where are your shore power connections? Run the external genset wired into the shore power plug. Should be a 30 amp. Will keep the fridge and AC going while in route.
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I 'might' have made to where I can mount my genset on the back and pull my plug through the back to plug into it. Gen runs while traveling..and charges batteries. plenty redneck, but will work.
 
Stuntman Autoworks said:
House batteries do not charge with the engine running.
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I'd say you're probably right, but I'd check to be sure. My camper batteries are tied directly to the +12v in the pigtail. There may be a relay tying Dylans house batteries in to the engine circuit when the ignition is on.
 
Dylan W. said:
I 'might' have made to where I can mount my genset on the back and pull my plug through the back to plug into it. Gen runs while traveling..and charges batteries. plenty redneck, but will work.
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Are you sure there isn't a transfer switch?
 
shawn said:
I'd say you're probably right, but I'd check to be sure. My camper batteries are tied directly to the +12v in the pigtail. There may be a relay tying Dylans house batteries in to the engine circuit when the ignition is on.
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They are not connected from the factory to the chassis battery, someone may have connected yours on their own or it's possible they put in a battery isolation system to separate them once voltage drops but I have never seen one that came that way from the factory but it has been a couple years since I worked on RVs for a living. They don't connect the house batteries to the chassis battery so that even if you run the house batteries completely dead your chassis battery will be unaffected and you can start the RV and drive away. There is a switch that if you leave the ignition key on and drain the chassis battery you can hit and it throws a relay to use the house batteries to start the engine but once the switch is released the house batteries are disconnected again.
DO NOT hold the switch down to charge dead house batteries with the alternator unless you want a small electrical fire under the dash.
 
shawn said:
Are you sure there isn't a transfer switch?
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To save money, alot of class C's will have a plug in the compartment that the shore cord is hard wired in. When you want shore power you take the cord out and plug up. When you what Gen power you 0lug the shore cord into the receptical in the compartment which is powered by the Generator. No transfer switch.
 
I know my 5er is standalone. The batteries (2) charge off shore power or the genset. When it is stored I have a small solar maintainer that keeps them up to snuff.
 
skyhighZJ said:
I know my 5er is standalone. The batteries (2) charge off shore power or the genset. When it is stored I have a small solar maintainer that keeps them up to snuff.
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A trailer will also charge off the power feed in the 7way plug. It's not a large wire though but give it long enough on a trip and it can fully charge the batteries.
 
This was never sealed from the factory. Sure, it gets a plastic cover that fits over the wood...but..
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I'm adding plenty of silicone just in case.
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This is the electric cord box. I'm going a step further than the factory did. I'm adding Eterna Bond waterproof tape around the inside, covering all wood framing.
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The old door to this part was being difficult to operate. I ordered a new WHITE door assembly from Amazon, but it showed up in black.

Amazon agreed to refund my money AND send a new white door, but the new white door was out of stock....Then they told me I could use the black one until the white door could be delivered. Then, just toss or keep the black door. They didnt want it back. So I said ok..
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Next it was time to start on the bedroom ceilings.
I learned from doing the front section ceilings that extra rafters were going to be key.
Extra rafters will make the roof stronger and make it much easier to install ceiling paneling. I can now staple my paneling to wood instead of screwing to aluminum. Easier to trim the seams too.

So...I cut some rafters with the correct arch to mimic roofline.(same as up front)
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Then we did some measuring, and started intalling. Here's a bunch of peektures.
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Pre drilling and running screw through aluminum rafters into new wooden rafters.
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I guess the back wall is pretty stout!
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BRUISER said:
Piece of advice

Spray the roof with flexable Bedliner in white. It will never leak.

Search flexarmor.
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I've already purchased my rubber roof.
Are you saying to use bedliner in conjunction with rubber?

I'll check it out.

Edit** flexarmor looks like an awesome idea, but website says I'll have to drive the rv To Florida so they can spray it. Sounds very expensive too.
 
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Dylan W. said:
I've already purchased my rubber roof.
Are you saying to use bedliner in conjunction with rubber?

I'll check it out.

Edit** flexarmor looks like an awesome idea, but website says I'll have to drive the rv To Florida so they can spray it. Sounds very expensive too.
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well if you have the rubber then I guess do it that way.

if you ping @Blaze he can tell you the bed-liner stuff he used to sell and I am pretty sure flexarmor is that same type brand.. more rubber based bed-liner then lineX etc
 
BRUISER said:
well if you have the rubber then I guess do it that way.

if you ping @Blaze he can tell you the bed-liner stuff he used to sell and I am pretty sure flexarmor is that same type brand.. more rubber based bed-liner then lineX etc
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Al's Liner is what I used to sell. The stuff is awesome. I still buy some off my old sales guy and use it for things occasionally. I actually have a wheelbarrow that I sprayed with it way back when, still looks like new and I have hauled all kinds of dirt, mulch, rocks and many many pounds of concrete in it.
 
Blaze said:
Al's Liner is what I used to sell. The stuff is awesome. I still buy some off my old sales guy and use it for things occasionally. I actually have a wheelbarrow that I sprayed with it way back when, still looks like new and I have hauled all kinds of dirt, mulch, rocks and many many pounds of concrete in it.
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I remember that bright orange nc4x4 bronco cage!!
 
Dylan W. said:
I hope he ends up living in a rv like mine.
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I believe that would be too good for him. I hope he leaves America and lives in some poverty stricken socialist place since he’s so against America.

I just saw where Nike pulled their shoe with the American flag because he pitched a fit. Screw Nike, and screw him. I’m not much for boycotting any brand but I am totally against Nike.
 
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