Bent Fab CH2

Oh no doubt she definitely does, I get nervous every time she walks in and starts looking at mine. Itā€™s like the butterflies feeling you get when seeing your spouse, but mine is for different reasons haha.

she looked at her welds I posted and said ā€œwhy didnā€™t you post any of the good onesā€ šŸ¤£

figured I needed to average down with my squirt gun. She walked in today and said ā€œ I thought you were going to tig thoseā€. I was like nahhh wanted to save some time. She saw right thru my nonsense.
 
So your wife is smoking hot, AND she can tig weld like a boss??? Get out of here man, youā€™re over doing it!


šŸ˜šŸ˜
You don't think we all follow ScottyMac on insta because HE is so cute, do ya?

:cool:

I mean..he's cute and all but.....
 
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What does something like this have In the way of foot well space (I got big feet)
Iā€™d say decent. Not a ton, but not the worst either. Steve drives with one foot so not an issue for him, and itā€™s no where as bad as his old old buggy which couldnā€™t be driven in boots.
Iā€™m thinking of dropping the heel area a little to make more room and to help ergonomics.
Iā€™ll be sure to get detailed foot well pics when thatā€™s done.
 
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A little tip for putting link brackets together. This is 1ā€ ID tube and I cut pieces and then trimmed the ends on the mini lathe to be square. These are .030ā€ wider than the 2.63ā€ heim with misalignment spacers. This way after welding, the heims still slide in easy but no slop. Some use washers, but most 3/4ā€ washers are .140ā€ thick. Way too wide to give clearance for paint/powder etc.
 
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Did I miss the resolution on the undersize holes?
 
Did I miss the resolution on the undersize holes?
Sent 95% of the plate work back to Bent Fab. Got a sheet of 3/16 HRPO to cut all new brackets for stuff.
Several reasons for this route:
1) wrong hole sizing
2) some brackets were for 2ā€ wide heims not 2.63
3) geometry in link calculator showed some areas that we could improve upon
4) Steve is eventually going to a rear steer housing, so I didnā€™t want to redo links when doing that swap. We are in-boarding the links on the rear, so that we can just put identical tabs on rear steer housing and bolt it in without changing links.

We are keeping the pedal assembly/orbital mount and master cylinder mounts, used the head mounting plates( should have just re cut these).

with any plasma operation there is some draft or angle to the cut. With proper cut speed and kerf compensation this can be minimized. The holes I cut on 90% of them a 3/4 bolt slides thru but is tight. A few needed just a quick cleaning up with a Hercules step bit from Harbor freight.

When I minimized the draft of the hole, my tight side was .753-.755 and the wide side of the 3/16 is .763-.765-ish. I didnā€™t check all, just checked my first test hole to confirm the hole call out in cad. It did confirm my kerf compensation is about .010ā€ more that what Iā€™m achieving.
Either way, itā€™s Less than the gap from bolt to inside heim misalignments.
When I laminated the plates I put both tight sides towards the heim.
I donā€™t anticipate the holes elongating due to leaving the hard plasma oxide layer in the holes, and keeping the tolerances tight, as well as the 3/8ā€ total width of the laminated tabs.
 
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got the rear lower links in, and working on the rear upper chassis mount. Temporary brackets going in, final mount will tie into some of the rear tube work for the ā€œbedā€ as well as likely be included with lower radiator mounts.
Rolled two tires mounted on the new wheels up to the hubs to check the look at 114ā€ w/b.
 
After building a pass drop buggy with a Chevy drivetrain there is no way I'd ever do that again.
 
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Sell and buy different. That's what I would do.
Everyone has different opinions/ideas/wallet. YMMV.
 
Yesterday after work Steve and I made some good progress. Mocked up a quick version of the skins just to see the ā€œlookā€.

we installed the temporary rear upper link brackets. These will be redone with the permanent ones once the rear bed area tube work is in place. This allows us to keep moving forward.

we also discovered that his ORI struts are 16ā€ models, not 14ā€, but we are still building around 7ā€ up travel as that clearance is maxed out up front with accessory drive clearance and water pump clearance.

the rear mounts are all inboard for when the rear steer housing is swapped in this fall. The blue tape line represents the 05+ inner c locations.
No work today as I have a wedding, but we plan to hit it hard tomorrow to get the shocks all mounted and articulate front and rear fully to check all clearances.
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Shock tabs all burned out, just have to do the welds to laminate them and install.
Steve spent the better part of the day cleaning up the front axle of the unnecessary old brackets and getting it ready for the shock tabs.
In between working on shock tabs, got started on the passenger side of the crossover pipe for the exhaust.
Keeping it as far from the driver/pass as possible while leaving room for heat shields and heat wrap on both the exhaust and nearby components.
This wrapped up day 12 of the build.
Hoping to get the rear shock tabs all welded on tomorrow night


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