Gone Postal : Mail Jeep Build

[95yjjeep]

Thanks for the info guys! I'm considering a Dana 300 but by the time u add the custom adapter + flip kit + clocking ring you're looking at some serious dough! Damn near close to atlasII or stak case pricing but it'll leak unlike those. I think I might do an np241 or np231 + sye and upgraded chain and build a custom case down the road. I'm wanting to have this thing wheel-able by the end of this year and I can upgrade the case down the road as needed. I thought eb Dana 20 but I don't know of anyone that makes a sm465 to eb Dana 20 adapter. Novak and AA just do sm465 to heep Dana 20 cases.

 

[Lurch830]

Anytime...if I had to do it all over again, I would get a driver side drop atlas with threaded linkage shifters.
I broke the front shift rail cable on a trip to URE, NWF shipped me another for free, but it was a hassle that I didn't want to deal with...

I've got a cherry picker too and I work in the UNCC area if you ever want/need to borrow it...just offering

 

[paradisePWoffrd]

Do u have a 10 or 32 spline sm465? Didn't know they made a 10 spline 231/241

Sent from Mobile Command Center

 

[95yjjeep]

Do u have a 10 or 32 spline sm465? Didn't know they made a 10 spline 231/241

Sent from Mobile Command Center

It's a 2wd sm465 which has the 35 spline output. I'll have to get a Advance adapters conversion bracket to make the 231 t-case work.

 

[95yjjeep]

Update. I ordered my Advance Adapters 2wd SM465 - NP231 t-case adapter kit tonight. A lot of people hate on this case and I know it's not the strongest t-case option out there, but with an upgraded chain and planetary set (all junkyard finds) it should hold up just fine until I upgrade the case down the road. There aren't too many options without spending big money when looking at driver drop t-cases. I'm thinking budget, hundreds of thousands of these in junkyards, cheap to build / rebuild and get it wheel able and with the parts I still have to buy, I can't blow it all on a transfer case right now. And when I decide to upgrade you can always sell an NP231 with HD parts and SYE kit to about any jeep guy out there.

I also got my 60s-70s vintage corvette brake master cylinder in the mail from o'reilly's. I'm hoping it works okay. It's a manual master cylinder but those vintage vettes had 4 wheel discs so I'm crossing my fingers that it will work. No pics but it looks like any other brake master cylinder. big, ugly and gray.

I also got my PCM back from lt1swap.com today. I shipped it last Wednesday and got it back today. That's pretty quick!

I'm planning on getting the clutch/pressure plate setup this week or next so I can bring the motor home so I can bolt it up to the muncie tranny and get started on getting the motor set in it's new home between those rickety framerails. I'm planning on using some junkyard parts to put together my hydraulic clutch system. I'll see what I can come up with.

 

[Chris_Keziah]

Why not go with the np241?

 

[paradisePWoffrd]

231 will also give you the option to run a 300 or 205 doubler setup...

 

[Chris_Keziah]

^ So will the 241 though, well at least with the 205.

 

[rodcycle]

Can someone give me more info on how to run 231/300 doubler?

 

[95yjjeep]

I got to work on some sheet metal today. I went to the ECORS race yesterday and had a great time so I didn't get as much done this weekend. I needed the motivation though.

I'm using thick 14ga cold rolled sheet. It is still weldable which is awesome to me because doing a million tack welds is a real PITA! I use a thin sheet of aluminum behind the butted metal to keep the welds from dropping through. It really was helpful.

front side panel cut to fit and drilled holes for spot welds.

mockup.

another.

fully welded.

upclose.

side #2 done.

 

[95yjjeep]

I've been pretty busy over the last few weeks. I took my YJ to uwharrie last weekend for opening weekend and had a kick ass time!!

Here is the 23 spline NP231 I picked up from BRUISER on the board. It was dirty. I cleaned it up as much as possible.

Backside of the cleaned up motor.

flywheel and clutch installed.

another shot.

 

[UncleWillie]

Did you get an engine hoist. I keep forgetting to bring mine up there.

 

[95yjjeep]

I also got the motor mounts on. They turned out pretty good. They fit nice and tight and I hope they'll hold up. I guess I overbuilt them but it's worth it.

another.

I also picked up an aluminum radiator from Speedway Motors. It was a smokin' price. I was originally going to get one from Jake's Fab but this one fell into my lap. I'm pretty happy with it. It's even setup for the right side fittings on the LS series engine. I also polished out the radiator. I like polished aluminum.

I cleaned up the old radiator cap from the postal jeep radiator so I'll be using ONE piece of the postal jeep's cooling system.

 

[BRUISER]

hey send me your address.. I forgot to put the bolts for driveshafts in with it.. I will send them to you in the mail

 

[Nissanwheeler]

im ready to see this thing in action already! Thats a sick powertrain, just out of curiosity how much did that vortec cost you?

 

[95yjjeep]

im ready to see this thing in action already! Thats a sick powertrain, just out of curiosity how much did that vortec cost you?

I can't wait to get thing on the trail. I'm hoping I can get a ton of work done in the next month or two. The 5.3l was $350 complete minus the alternator. Used alternator runs about $30. The computer reprogram/tune was another $75 and the flywheel and other conversion stuff was another $75 or so. The motor mounts didn't cost anything since I made them and new clutch and pressure plate came with the used transmission I bought. I am going to strip the wiring harness myself to save ~$300 or so.

 

[95yjjeep]

I drilled out the ford 8.8 exploder rear brake rotors. I made this template on one of my design projects so if anyone needs a 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern template.

I started out working on the rocker panels today. This is all 14ga steel. it's a dream to weld with. Thin ass sheet metal is a PITA! This stuff works pretty good, the only negative is that you can use snips to cut it, you have to use the angle grinder.

I fully welded the top and bottom of the rocker panel and grinded everything smooth for a snap free smooth finish.

Another side shot after some primer. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.

The 2nd side finished up to match.

Underneath.

 

[95yjjeep]

I stitched the insides every 4-6" or so just so everything is tight and strong. This was probably way overkill, but all of this work is hopefully going to strengthen up the old rotten body.

Wide angle shot of the passenger side finished up.

I also threw the grill back on today after I stripped the old radiator out and painted the inside with a fresh coat of rattle can black. I think it looks so much better with the grill on it.

 

[95yjjeep]

Easter update. I got out and drilled the holes in the brand new sheet metal for the rocksliders I had built previously. So much for that perfect sheet metal.

Once I got the sliders bolted up and marked and cut them out to match my new rocker panel body lines.

Before.

]

After. I like it! I think it makes the sliders look more custom to the body and not just slapped up on the side like before. It took all morning to do this but I think it's worth it.

Side #2.

Wide.

 

[C.Berry]

Hell i thought you had already finished this thing...lol Looks awesome always wanted a jacked up mail jeep

 

[95yjjeep]

Hell i thought you had already finished this thing...lol Looks awesome always wanted a jacked up mail jeep

haha. I wish! kind of. I'm really having fun building this pile. Whenever it's done I'll be looking for another project.

 

[95yjjeep]

I messed with some tubing tonight after work. I am planning on welding the tube from the rear bumper to the jeep frame rails to reinforce everything a little more. Then I'll have a piece that comes off that tube (about where my hand is) that will connect upward to the C pillar of the cage floor mount. Then there will be a cross bar that connects and will be the location for the upper shock mount.

 

[95yjjeep]

So I'm planning on getting the 5.3 dropped in this weekend so I can finish welding in the motor mounts and lower crossmember I'll be building. Is there a specific degree I should tilt the motor back to for proper oiling. I have heard 5-10* but I didn't know what is best. What is stock on 99-04 1500 pickups? Any thoughts?!

Update. I also got the motor home yesterday and picked up ~48ft of DOM tubing from MarsFab on Wednesday so I'm ready to get back to work. Tubing will be used for more rocker protection and double as my cage/frame tie-ins, rear shock hoops and cage tie-ins and front crossmember support and winch mount.

 

[95yjjeep]

I got back to work today and made some AWESOME PROGRESS! A buddy of mine came over to lend a hand for the better part of the day. Putting in a motor is DEFINITELY a 2 man job. On with the details. We sat it in place and set the motor to 5-7* tilted back. My homebrew motor mounts really worked out well. They fit tight and once I got the tubes cut to the proper angle, they welded in good too.

Bolted engine and transmission together. I still haven't gotten my Advance Adapters conversion bracket for the t-case so I just had to estimate where to t-case will be.

naked.

getting everything squared up.

another.

hard tack welding the motor mount 1/4" plate that I'm welding the motor mounts to. Overkill but I want to do this once and never have to worry about it.

cut. notched and tack welded in motor mount and frame motor mount plate #1.

#2.

 

[95yjjeep]

Joe (TJkrawler) was taking most of the pics for me today. This was a cool shot that he took.

motor mounts.

this is just sexy as hell in my opinion...even with some stock ass exhaust manifolds.

Then I cut, notched and tack welded in the lower motor mount crossmember support. Once the jeep is all done, I'll be attaching a skid plate to this piece of DOM.

another.