"Gonna do it right...maybe!!??" Fuller's new XJ build!!!

Jody Treadway said:
Yep. If it's an open diff, finding 35 spline side gears is pretty easy. If it's a Trackloc, then it's not worth it and you're better off finding a D70 spool.
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Both front and rear are open..welded already. Good to know, thank you
 
ORV design and fab said:
Yes that makes it a 4.10... what did the axles con out of? 2nd gen Dodge?
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The hubs indicate 2nd gen dodge, but the housing is leaf sprung with CAD, it looks. 1st gens were pass drop, iirc. Maybe some rare early 2nd gen or late 1st gen?

If its a 70 rear. It'll share a diff cover with a 60.

Plan on addressing the CAD, and smoothing the bottom/lip of the 70.

Also, just like a d30, you will need to make sure there is a stub in the axle or the unit bearing will fail. There is a way to eliminate the unit bearing using 90s Ford BJ d50/60 parts.

Plan to gather spares, also. Both those axles are rare in off road rigs, so you won't find any spares on the trail. Yards should be full of them, I would think.
 
Supposedly you can sleeve the inside of those CAD axles by drilling out that collar with a hole saw.


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Find a Ford BJ Dana 60 (not a super duty) use the knuckles out including the stub shafts and you can convert that axle to conventional bearings and get rid of the unit bearings. On the long side they make a block off plate and a full length inner shaft to do away with the coupler and 2 part shaft that’s there now. If you google CAD delete there is lots of info. The problem is by the time you do all of it it may have been cheaper to just get a Another axle
 
skyhighZJ said:
Find a Ford BJ Dana 60 (not a super duty) use the knuckles out including the stub shafts and you can convert that axle to conventional bearings and get rid of the unit bearings. On the long side they make a block off plate and a full length inner shaft to do away with the coupler and 2 part shaft that’s there now. If you google CAD delete there is lots of info. The problem is by the time you do all of it it may have been cheaper to just get a Another axle
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I think @Marty wants to keep the CAD, like a selectable locker.

Also the inner shaft is pretty beef, but you'd need spares for sure. But if u want to go upgraded, you have to eliminate the CAD.
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
think @Marty wants to keep the CAD, like a selectable locker.
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Yep. I wanted Dodge axles for this reason since I like welding them but makes turning harder on steering. I have a vacuum switch that I will make it unlockable until lined up for whatever I'm hitting.

Good to have all the advise on upgrades on file from everyone though, thank you. It will come handy way on down the road but for now these axles are more than enough to suit my needs and desires. I'm gonna have to focus on beefing up other things that will be the (weak links) over time. For what I plan on running and doing, pretty sure gonna be long time before I'm at the point of breaking a 60.
15yrs on stock axles, few years on D44s held up plenty good, so now 60s will be awesome for 37-39s (for me) to start.

I'm really excited about twin cases but this time actually using it.
 
Is the caster on this ok, this is where I'd like to put pinion pointing if that caster is ok..looks to be right at zero, thank you
 
IMG_20180212_190325718_LL.jpg
 
I don't know that I'd be okay with a 0 degree caster angle... Even exclusively for trail driving. If that's where you want your pinion pointing, you might need to do the ol' cut-and-turn just like on the Scout 44s. Depends on how you want your steering to act. 0 degree caster will let it have a good deal of wander at speed, but then again if you're only going to be crawling through the trails...it's your call. I'd level it by the spring pad cast into the differential and see where that puts your pinion, and see if that is something you could be happy with. From there, I'd measure the caster angle and then see if you have any room to change it. I'm assuming you're going to be using radius arms or links?
 
Scooter402 said:
I don't know that I'd be okay with a 0 degree caster angle... Even exclusively for trail driving. If that's where you want your pinion pointing, you might need to do the ol' cut-and-turn just like on the Scout 44s. Depends on how you want your steering to act. 0 degree caster will let it have a good deal of wander at speed, but then again if you're only going to be crawling through the trails...it's your call. I'd level it by the spring pad cast into the differential and see where that puts your pinion, and see if that is something you could be happy with. From there, I'd measure the caster angle and then see if you have any room to change it. I'm assuming you're going to be using radius arms or links?
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Yes going back to long arm probably 3link or 4. I'll check it level off the spring pads..
BTW, those aren't leaf springs pads cause this had coil buckets previous so what the world are they
 
marty79 said:
OMG lol lol, I didn't realize that.
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:cool: it's how I ended up with this username. In the late 90s I was building a 1962 Chevy Street truck and put a 1971 front clip on it to get disc brakes and I kept asking about caster and camber on 67-72 Chevy trucks.com my name used to just be Troy and the admin changed it to CasterTroy after all that. Of course it was also around the time the movie face off came out where Castor Troy was a character in that movie and he changed it the o to an e to match my questioning
 
marty79 said:
Is the caster on this ok, this is where I'd like to put pinion pointing if that caster is ok..looks to be right at zero, thank you
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Shoot for 5-7° at ride height. If you're not running a cv/double cardon shaft up front you don't want the pinion pointed up at the tcase.

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marty79 said:
Yes going back to long arm probably 3link or 4. I'll check it level off the spring pads..
BTW, those aren't leaf springs pads cause this had coil buckets previous so what the world are they
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Oops, my bad. Just looked at a bunch of pics for Dodge D60 and saw them there, too...still haven't found an explanation, but I'm bored...maybe I'll figure it out. Pics fo proof.

Spicer-Dana-60-Front-Rears-(Tandem-Front)-80242165-orqaoKhxeRUe_f.jpg


CasterTroy said:
:cool: it's how I ended up with this username. In the late 90s I was building a 1962 Chevy Street truck and put a 1971 front clip on it to get disc brakes and I kept asking about caster and camber on 67-72 Chevy trucks.com my name used to just be Troy and the admin changed it to CasterTroy after all that. Of course it was also around the time the movie face off came out where Castor Troy was a character in that movie and he changed it the o to an e to match my questioning
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Ah, now it makes sense...I just assumed you were a Face Off fan. That movie was pretty badass. "Peach...I could eat a peach for hours..."
 
Chris_Keziah said:
Shoot for 5-7° at ride height. If you're not running a cv/double cardon shaft up front you don't want the pinion pointed up at the tcase.

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I am gonna be running double cardan shaft and dual cases so I guess I'll be fine with this ..roughly 2degrees level with those pads
IMG_20180212_193152086_LL.jpg
 
I'm also going for long down travel so that's my whole reasoning..I hate binfing/breaking driveshaft so pointing at the tcase has served me well for many many years
 
Scooter402 said:
Oops, my bad. Just looked at a bunch of pics for Dodge D60 and saw them there, too...still haven't found an explanation, but I'm bored...maybe I'll figure it out.
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Still haven't seen pics of one of these axles in a stock pickup, but the only thing I can make sense of is it is a flat pad for a bump stop. That's my story and I'm sticking to it!
 
Scooter402 said:
Still haven't seen pics of one of these axles in a stock pickup, but the only thing I can make sense of is it is a flat pad for a bump stop. That's my story and I'm sticking to it!
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Gotta be, I'm sold lol
 
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